Will I be able to run a 150 shot on a heads and cam LT1 on pump gas? I did before.
I ran the setup in my signature on pump gas and it's blown up now. I think that was because I had a stock fuel pump. The new setup should make more power naturally aspirated.
It's going to be a 355, TRW Forged Pistons, ARP Rod Bolts, Balanced, Clevite 77H Bearings, Speed Pro Rings Gapped for Nitrous, 11:1 compression, Ported Heads with 2.00/1.56 Valves, CC306, Comp Pro Magnum 1.6 Roller Rockers, Hooker Longtubes, Mufflex Y Pipe and PCMForLess.com Custom Programming.
On a car with about 380-395 rwhp naturally aspirated, would I still be able to spray a Nitrous Xpress 150 Shot on pump gas? I know the timing would have to be retarded so I would use a MSD Digital 6 and pull back 2-4 degrees of timing when the nitrous is on. Would that be enought to get me by? The car will be programmed for a naturally aspirated setup and I can just take out timing with the Digital 6.
I am going to spray a 200 shot too, I know that wont work on pump gas. So with 4-6 degrees of retard, would I be able to get by on 104 unleaded or would I have to go with more octane? I want to be able to run unleaded so I dont have to buy o2 sensors all the time. If I cant run it on unleaded, then 114 it is and I will stock up on o2 sensors.
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1980 Camaro Z28 Sikkens 3 Stage Blue and Purple
1994 Camaro Z28 Teal M6
Ported Heads, LT4 Hot Cam and Springs, 1.6 RR's, Mac Headers and Offroad Y Pipe, Flowmaster Catback, Resonators, Flowtech Cutout, NX 150 Horsepower Shot of Nitrous, NX Bottle Heater, NX Remote Bottle Opener, NOS Purge, KB DD SFCs, BMR STB, Hypertech 160 Thermostat, Redline Water Wetter and Synthetic Diff. Fluid, McLeod Dual Performance Clutch, K&N FIPK, LT4 KM, 1LE Bellow, Holley 58mm Throttle Body, TB Coolant Bypass, Metco Valve Cover Breather, LPW Rearend Support Cover, Strange 3.73s, Eaton Posi, TA Stud Kit, Lakewood LCAs and Adjustable Panhard Rod, LS1 Driveshaft, March Underdrive Pullies, MSD 6AL, MSD Window Switch, MSD Blaster Coil, NGK TR6's, Mobil 1 Synthetic, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Intrax Lowering Springs, BFGoodRich Comp TAs 255/50/16, Nitto Drag Radials 245/50/16, AVS Blackouts on the back.
339 RWHP Corrected with two broke rings
465 RWHP Corrected on the nitrous with the clutch slipping bad and two broke rings
www.geocities.com/speeds8erm1
It's going to be a 355, TRW Forged Pistons, ARP Rod Bolts, Balanced, Clevite 77H Bearings, Speed Pro Rings Gapped for Nitrous, 11:1 compression, Ported Heads with 2.00/1.56 Valves, CC306, Comp Pro Magnum 1.6 Roller Rockers, Hooker Longtubes, Mufflex Y Pipe and PCMForLess.com Custom Programming.
On a car with about 380-395 rwhp naturally aspirated, would I still be able to spray a Nitrous Xpress 150 Shot on pump gas? I know the timing would have to be retarded so I would use a MSD Digital 6 and pull back 2-4 degrees of timing when the nitrous is on. Would that be enought to get me by? The car will be programmed for a naturally aspirated setup and I can just take out timing with the Digital 6.
I am going to spray a 200 shot too, I know that wont work on pump gas. So with 4-6 degrees of retard, would I be able to get by on 104 unleaded or would I have to go with more octane? I want to be able to run unleaded so I dont have to buy o2 sensors all the time. If I cant run it on unleaded, then 114 it is and I will stock up on o2 sensors.
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1980 Camaro Z28 Sikkens 3 Stage Blue and Purple
1994 Camaro Z28 Teal M6
Ported Heads, LT4 Hot Cam and Springs, 1.6 RR's, Mac Headers and Offroad Y Pipe, Flowmaster Catback, Resonators, Flowtech Cutout, NX 150 Horsepower Shot of Nitrous, NX Bottle Heater, NX Remote Bottle Opener, NOS Purge, KB DD SFCs, BMR STB, Hypertech 160 Thermostat, Redline Water Wetter and Synthetic Diff. Fluid, McLeod Dual Performance Clutch, K&N FIPK, LT4 KM, 1LE Bellow, Holley 58mm Throttle Body, TB Coolant Bypass, Metco Valve Cover Breather, LPW Rearend Support Cover, Strange 3.73s, Eaton Posi, TA Stud Kit, Lakewood LCAs and Adjustable Panhard Rod, LS1 Driveshaft, March Underdrive Pullies, MSD 6AL, MSD Window Switch, MSD Blaster Coil, NGK TR6's, Mobil 1 Synthetic, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Intrax Lowering Springs, BFGoodRich Comp TAs 255/50/16, Nitto Drag Radials 245/50/16, AVS Blackouts on the back.
339 RWHP Corrected with two broke rings
465 RWHP Corrected on the nitrous with the clutch slipping bad and two broke rings
www.geocities.com/speeds8erm1
You should be able to run 93oct pump gas if you pull timing. Do some NA log runs before you run the N2O and see if very thing looks good...if so do the 100 shot and log that run and look at that...then go to the 125 and so on. Ild say your going to have to pull 4 deg or more for 150 shot on pump gas depending on how aggresive your NA timing is setup.
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Greg
95 Z28 conv M6
Georgia F-Body Association
Stage 1 heads, 1.6rr, Meziere WP
lt4 hot cam,lt4 timing chain kit,52mm TB,
Hooker Headers, Pro 5 shifter,3.73s,
NX 150 progressive,
Self-tuned via Tunercat
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Greg
95 Z28 conv M6
Georgia F-Body Association
Stage 1 heads, 1.6rr, Meziere WP
lt4 hot cam,lt4 timing chain kit,52mm TB,
Hooker Headers, Pro 5 shifter,3.73s,
NX 150 progressive,
Self-tuned via Tunercat
If you run the 150 on pump gas,i would say pull 6* of timing. Thats gonna be pushing it.
Would hate to see someone risk a new setup by not running 104 unleaded.
You can try it,but better have at least 2 heat range colder than stock plugs.
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Dirk
1997 TA A4
11.251@119.3 1.52 60',7.132@95.39 1/8
The RacinLT1
RacinLT1 pic's
Would hate to see someone risk a new setup by not running 104 unleaded.
You can try it,but better have at least 2 heat range colder than stock plugs.
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Dirk
1997 TA A4
11.251@119.3 1.52 60',7.132@95.39 1/8
The RacinLT1
RacinLT1 pic's
I run a 150 shot on my new motor and it isn't as potent as yours b/c I am just running a hotcam but I haven't had any detonation probs. I run some NX octane booster and don't pull any timing yet. Hey Dirk how much timing do you take out on a 150shot? I have only sprayed a couple times on the new motor but when I pulled a plug there was no marks on the plug but it is fat too.
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1995 T/A RamAir,17x9 WS6 polished rims,A4 fresh, 3:23's,LT4 Hotcam kit, Ported heads and intake, built 355 with forged pistons, LT4KM,NX N20 kit 125-175hp, Custom programming, AS&M headers, Vigilante 2800,
flowmaster catback, Fernco intake bellow,CSI w/p,MSD 6al. New Et 12.50@107 N/A no nitrous times yet.
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1995 T/A RamAir,17x9 WS6 polished rims,A4 fresh, 3:23's,LT4 Hotcam kit, Ported heads and intake, built 355 with forged pistons, LT4KM,NX N20 kit 125-175hp, Custom programming, AS&M headers, Vigilante 2800,
flowmaster catback, Fernco intake bellow,CSI w/p,MSD 6al. New Et 12.50@107 N/A no nitrous times yet.
I pull 2-4* depending on weather. I always run 104 when im going to spray the car,and have NGK TR6's. No detonation yet with this setup. I also have the knock sensor limited to 2* max retard.....my exhuast hits the florr and i get false knock.
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Dirk
1997 TA A4
11.251@119.3 1.52 60',7.132@95.39 1/8
The RacinLT1
RacinLT1 pic's
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Dirk
1997 TA A4
11.251@119.3 1.52 60',7.132@95.39 1/8
The RacinLT1
RacinLT1 pic's
The car will get sprayed alot, so thats why I dont want to have to have race gas for the 150 shot. I will run race gas with a 200 shot, thats not a problem, I just want to be able to ride around with the 150 shot without worry of having race gas. I will be running NGK TR6's gapped at .035. Will I be able to get by on 104 for the 200 shot witn about 4 degress pulled?
If you already blew up 1 combo,why risk a new 1?
General rule of thumb is to pull 2* of timing for every 50hp of nitrous. Therefore only pulling 4* on a 200 shot is 1/2 of whats recommended. Remember,you are raising the static compression ratio,even though it's only .5 a point over stock,it can change the octane requirements for the engine/nitrous setups.
You might be better off going with a dedicated fuel system for the nitrous that way you can always have 104 in that cell just for nitrous,and run the car on 93 pump. once again,this is just IMO,but i wouldnt risk grenading a second setup by trying to "cheap" out on fuel.
Dirk
General rule of thumb is to pull 2* of timing for every 50hp of nitrous. Therefore only pulling 4* on a 200 shot is 1/2 of whats recommended. Remember,you are raising the static compression ratio,even though it's only .5 a point over stock,it can change the octane requirements for the engine/nitrous setups.
You might be better off going with a dedicated fuel system for the nitrous that way you can always have 104 in that cell just for nitrous,and run the car on 93 pump. once again,this is just IMO,but i wouldnt risk grenading a second setup by trying to "cheap" out on fuel.
Dirk
Hey Speeds,
I've been running a 200 shot on stock bottom LT1 for over 2 1/2 years on 93 octane Amoco or Shell. I run 37 degrees NA, and 33 degrees on the juice. On top of that, I have my knock sensors disabled at WOT.
There are 3 reasons this has been working for me:
1) I have a killer fuel system which flows 364 liters/hr at 43psi(not an advertised number, but I actually measured this at the fuel rails)
2) My heads have been ported for maximum swirl and minimum quench distance which really kills detonation.
3) I have a 2 stage wet setup.
Mostly, I use it on the street, which is why it had to work with 93 octane.
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SSMOKEM
1995 Impala SS "Cherry Bomb"
Best ETs: faster than my '65 pickup
Mods: 93% stock
My Super Impala SS Website
[This message has been edited by George Debski (edited July 28, 2002).]
I've been running a 200 shot on stock bottom LT1 for over 2 1/2 years on 93 octane Amoco or Shell. I run 37 degrees NA, and 33 degrees on the juice. On top of that, I have my knock sensors disabled at WOT.
There are 3 reasons this has been working for me:
1) I have a killer fuel system which flows 364 liters/hr at 43psi(not an advertised number, but I actually measured this at the fuel rails)
2) My heads have been ported for maximum swirl and minimum quench distance which really kills detonation.
3) I have a 2 stage wet setup.
Mostly, I use it on the street, which is why it had to work with 93 octane.
------------------
SSMOKEM
1995 Impala SS "Cherry Bomb"
Best ETs: faster than my '65 pickup
Mods: 93% stock
My Super Impala SS Website
[This message has been edited by George Debski (edited July 28, 2002).]
The other setup blew when I hadnt even sprayed in a week. I dont think it was an octane problem, I think it was a fuel delivery problem. I had the stock fuel pump, which isnt good for much over mid 300 rwhp naturally aspirated. There is no way I am running a seperate fuel system for the nitrous for this little setup.
If it blows, I have a 396 for it, if I dont sell it first.
It's been sitting for over a year, so it really dosent hurt my feelings too much for it to sit but I would like it to stay running for awhile.
I will just pull more timing if I have to.
If it blows, I have a 396 for it, if I dont sell it first.
It's been sitting for over a year, so it really dosent hurt my feelings too much for it to sit but I would like it to stay running for awhile.
I will just pull more timing if I have to.
I don't have s separate fuel system, just replaced the stock set-up.
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SSMOKEM
1995 Impala SS "Cherry Bomb"
Best ETs: faster than my '65 pickup
Mods: 93% stock
My Super Impala SS Website
------------------
SSMOKEM
1995 Impala SS "Cherry Bomb"
Best ETs: faster than my '65 pickup
Mods: 93% stock
My Super Impala SS Website
Will the Granatelli 255 Intank Pump be enough or should I get an inline pump too? I will not have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator or anything, only upgrade will be the fuel pump.
ok you have almost the same setup as me ...
i am spraying my car with a 150n shot no problems right now iwill hit it with 200 shot with 6 degress pulled a tr6 plug i have a walbro 255 gss340 pump . i highly suggest you get an adjustable regulater and raise the pressure to 42psi once you hit it youre fuel pressue will drop then raise back up but you run the risk of breaking **** with a stock regulater an after market regulater holds the pressue still if not higher that way you dont ryn lean =boom
i am spraying my car with a 150n shot no problems right now iwill hit it with 200 shot with 6 degress pulled a tr6 plug i have a walbro 255 gss340 pump . i highly suggest you get an adjustable regulater and raise the pressure to 42psi once you hit it youre fuel pressue will drop then raise back up but you run the risk of breaking **** with a stock regulater an after market regulater holds the pressue still if not higher that way you dont ryn lean =boom
Well, do I need to adjust the fuel pressure? Wont that mess with the jetting of the Nitrous Xpress Kit since it's based off stock fuel pressure or are you saying I should get one and then not adjust it?
David,
There is a place online that a walbro 255 can be had for under 100 bucks. I think it was 93.00 but I could be off a few bucks. I don't have the address saved on this computer, but I wanted to let you know, before you go out and pay more for one.
Seems like someone posted a link in the GP forum when someone was doing a GP on the walbro pumps...
Zack
There is a place online that a walbro 255 can be had for under 100 bucks. I think it was 93.00 but I could be off a few bucks. I don't have the address saved on this computer, but I wanted to let you know, before you go out and pay more for one.
Seems like someone posted a link in the GP forum when someone was doing a GP on the walbro pumps...
Zack
Thanks Zack! I already got a Granatelli 255 Intank Pump.
I had to get it through my speed shop because I took back some stuff and put some money with it. I paid $120 for it, it would have been nice to get it cheaper but I already got one.
Thanks though!
I had to get it through my speed shop because I took back some stuff and put some money with it. I paid $120 for it, it would have been nice to get it cheaper but I already got one.
Thanks though!


