why do my rpms take a split second to fall after using juice??
why do my rpms take a split second to fall after using juice??
after a nitrous run, my rpms stay around 4k for a split second, then fall, its like it kinda drops in rpms then stops for a split second and then drops like normal. any ideas??
Last edited by BlackbirdWS6; Sep 9, 2003 at 06:26 PM.
Re: why do my rpms take a split second to fall after using juice??
Originally posted by BlackbirdWS6
after a nitrous run, my rpms stay around 4k for a split second, then fall, its like it kinda drops in rpms then stops for a split second and then drops like normal. any ideas??
after a nitrous run, my rpms stay around 4k for a split second, then fall, its like it kinda drops in rpms then stops for a split second and then drops like normal. any ideas??
somewhere around 4 or 5 runs. my buddy today said his did the same thing. it idles fine after sprayin also, like i said doesnt keep going but seems as if some nitrous is getting to the motor after i let off the gas. i dunno
STicky???
Not knowing what kinda kit you have or the lenght of line from the solenoids to the plate, I would have to guess that may be what's goin on. The line from the solenoid is still full of NO2 and bleeding into the plate after shutdown. Also if you have small jets in the kit this may be pronounced. (100 hp or smaller) BELIEVE ME if the solinoids were stickin youd know it No BS there
had it happen. Also it wouldnt do that consistently. What kinda bottle pressure you runnin. Keep it under 1050/1100 tops.. Bad stuff starts happening @1200+ espescially with the smaller solinoids. Ya and it would be safer to wire your kit through a relay
All that amp draw now has to go through that little micro switch and they dont care for that much either (just as bad as a stuck solinoid)
had it happen. Also it wouldnt do that consistently. What kinda bottle pressure you runnin. Keep it under 1050/1100 tops.. Bad stuff starts happening @1200+ espescially with the smaller solinoids. Ya and it would be safer to wire your kit through a relay
All that amp draw now has to go through that little micro switch and they dont care for that much either (just as bad as a stuck solinoid)
Originally posted by BlackbirdWS6
no...just simple wiring, just asking but what would it being hooked up to a relay do. thanks
no...just simple wiring, just asking but what would it being hooked up to a relay do. thanks
I put my electric fan on a relay because the toggle switch i had been using to activate it was getting hot. This was with a 10 amp draw electric fan, and I immediately noticed that the fan started faster when I flip the switch and shutoff immediately when I shut it off (whereas before it would slowly spin down).
ok, i went over my kit again, its a TNT wet kit for my LT1 with a 100 shot btw. anyway, my dads friend installed the kit with me, he did the wiring and yes he did go through a relay....which is just the reason why i dont wire anything(dont have the patience or all the know how). the line from the noid to the spray jet at roughly 6 inches long as the kit came with and makes u use. the kit runs great cept for that little thing that i have already described.
Re: STicky???
Originally posted by CRCDUDE
Not knowing what kinda kit you have or the lenght of line from the solenoids to the plate, I would have to guess that may be what's goin on. The line from the solenoid is still full of NO2 and bleeding into the plate after shutdown. Also if you have small jets in the kit this may be pronounced. (100 hp or smaller) BELIEVE ME if the solinoids were stickin youd know it No BS there
had it happen. Also it wouldnt do that consistently. What kinda bottle pressure you runnin. Keep it under 1050/1100 tops.. Bad stuff starts happening @1200+ espescially with the smaller solinoids. Ya and it would be safer to wire your kit through a relay
All that amp draw now has to go through that little micro switch and they dont care for that much either (just as bad as a stuck solinoid)
Not knowing what kinda kit you have or the lenght of line from the solenoids to the plate, I would have to guess that may be what's goin on. The line from the solenoid is still full of NO2 and bleeding into the plate after shutdown. Also if you have small jets in the kit this may be pronounced. (100 hp or smaller) BELIEVE ME if the solinoids were stickin youd know it No BS there
had it happen. Also it wouldnt do that consistently. What kinda bottle pressure you runnin. Keep it under 1050/1100 tops.. Bad stuff starts happening @1200+ espescially with the smaller solinoids. Ya and it would be safer to wire your kit through a relay
All that amp draw now has to go through that little micro switch and they dont care for that much either (just as bad as a stuck solinoid)
Re: Re: STicky???
Originally posted by snow2000SS
Ding ding ding, I think we have a winner. What is said above is what is happening. People are too worried about solenoids sticking open. It is very rare. A solenoids natural position is closed usualy the only thing thta will cause them to stick is debris that wedges the plunger in the solenoid body.
Ding ding ding, I think we have a winner. What is said above is what is happening. People are too worried about solenoids sticking open. It is very rare. A solenoids natural position is closed usualy the only thing thta will cause them to stick is debris that wedges the plunger in the solenoid body.
yea i have a filter and all that good stuff...its not causing a problem but I just didnt know if it could become a problem. you know what i mean. i dont want to chalk up a problem over just ignoring it.


