Well... This is the place where I learn before spraying....
Well... This is the place where I learn before spraying....
Well, as far as timing, I want to be able to retard timing as much as I need when I want to spray, and keep the timing normal for optimized performance when I'm not.
I want to be able to turn the system on/off from inside the car, and only spray when that red button is depressed. I don't care about turning on/off at diff. RPM's.
This system is strictly for when the Pony's get silly next to me at red lights, if I'll even need it
What accesories do I need to purchase to satisfy these needs?
I see that Mallory 685 ignition box suggested alot, will this work as far as timing is concerned. Are there any other options? I'm researching as much as possible beforehand, so I dont go home with a blown motor.
I want to be able to turn the system on/off from inside the car, and only spray when that red button is depressed. I don't care about turning on/off at diff. RPM's.
This system is strictly for when the Pony's get silly next to me at red lights, if I'll even need it
What accesories do I need to purchase to satisfy these needs?
I see that Mallory 685 ignition box suggested alot, will this work as far as timing is concerned. Are there any other options? I'm researching as much as possible beforehand, so I dont go home with a blown motor.
Re: Well... This is the place where I learn before spraying....
Another ignition option to the mallory you mentioned is the MSD digital 6.. I personally prefer the quality of the MSD electronics over the Mallory stuff(but they're both good)........A properly adjusted (FPSS) fuel pressure safety switch is a very inexpensive but valuable safety item and I wouldn't ever run nitrous without one.......Also, make sure that your factory fuel pump is working well and that your fuel pressure is staying really consistant (For Example) hook up a manual gauge to where you can see it from inside the car while making a quarter mile pass, this way you know for sure "exactly" what it's doing under full load, "not" just by simulating full throttle by pulling the vacuum line at the regulator.........(And If you haven't purchased a kit yet) I would go with a High Quality "wet" nitrous kit instead of a "dry" nitrous kit....they can both obviously be made to work,(I ran dry for many years also) but the wet kit will give you the ability to tune things in a little more exact(and easier)............And, depending on the horsepower increase you go with, go with the colder plugs to match... IE: anything up to a 175 shot(or so), and the Autolite 103's (gapped between 35-38 thou) are a good 1 1/2 step colder than stock choice. (they will also be fine when your not spraying).....If you don't have already, I'd also pick up a set of NEW "high quality" plug wires (the MSD 8.5 super conductors work real good)......A purge valve is also a good idea so that you don't have any air in the nitrous lines which can cause the fuel to reach the engine slightly before the nitrous(but you could always add this later on if desired)..........A bottle heater, and bottle pressure gauge is also good to have so you can keep your bottle pressure where you need for your desired jetting and nitrous to fuel ratio.....it's also a real good idea to have your PCM's factory Rev-limiter raised "way" up out of the way (Like 7200 RPM) to where you'll "never" hit it by mistake while spraying....the factory rev-limiter cuts fuel for it's rev-limiting method instead of dropping spark like the good aftermarket ignition you will have, and this can cause an instant kaboom (in a real bad way) if you were to hit it by mistake while spraying.......Good luck...post as you progress with it......Joe
Last edited by Joe B; Aug 8, 2006 at 06:29 AM.
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