just got finished installing the second stage. first stage will be 50hp. the second stage will be 200 hp. these are motor ratings. been using the 200 for over a year now. both will be on together. i'll use the 50hp immediately. then, so long as traction isn't an issue, i'll turn on the 200. so, total of 250.

mods are:
SLP airlid
K/N filter
Bassani tru-duals
Yank SS3400E
3.73 gears
315/35-17 nitto DRs

had 4.10 gears before and went 11.66 @ 117.67 going into 4th about 60ft before the end.

going to see how close to a 10 i can get on stock motor from TB to factory cats.

http://www.stealthram.com/2000formulanitrous.htm

 

Are you running the 250 on stock bottom end and everything or do you have more done to the engine...just curious cause im on the 150 and next year gonna go to afr 225 heads and cam...i want to do a 2 stage just like you are just curious if what you had done...thanks

 

on this car, the motor is completely stock from TB to factory cats. only mods are as listed.

 

I'm not sure what the question is here?

If you're going to make a serious effort to run 10s you will need to initiate more than 50 hp. Swap back to what you were doing before. Hit as much as you can off the line.

I run a 30 hp kit in the winter (indiana), then switch to 150 in the summer. At the track i run both simultaneously.

Dump the cats, if they are like the LT1 single cat they kill the car.

I still run a completly stock LT1 from the paper filter to the crossoer pipe times in sig.

 

there isn't a question. just showing what i did.

my before was hitting all 200 at as close to 2000 rpms without breaking the tires loose. this is my fifth car with nitrous.

i will be running both simutaneously as traction will let me. just using the 50 to get me off the line quicker. the 200 will come on as soon as i can.

the ls1 has two cats. i want to see if i can hit tens as is. doubt it'll happen. but, it'll be fun trying. i have .7 to make up to get there in the 00 formula.

i see you are using propane. actually, i've consulted ny-trex about it. no later than february, i'll have the propane added to the car. that way, i won't be taxing the fuel system.

 

Dump the bottles at 400 rpm you'll have a better chance.

 

I have a couple questions...

Why are you runnig two micro switches?
Why run 2 bottles if on shot is only 50hp?
Why are you running the bottles standing straight up? I assume you modded the siphon tube? If I am not wrong the tube on those bottles go in and bend in the same direction of the outgoing line, in your case towards the front of the car... Not good when hard on the throttle and the bottle gets low.

Also, not sure it it is still there in the new system but, if you are going to jump power to the bottle heater from the rear defroster, why don't you do it in the wire loom so you don't have the wire hanging there?

Sorry if it sounds like I might be critisizing your setup, I am just trying to help and maybe point out some things that you have that might not be needed or might need to be addressed if you were not aware.

 

two microswitches for two systems. also, the microswitch is rated for 15 amps. n2o noids pull about 7 amps. the fuel noids pull 2.5 amps. in total, all four noids would pull 19 amps. this will overload the one microswitch.

because, once i activate the 200 shot after the 50 shot, both systems will be pulling from one bottle if i did it that way. this can cause fluctuations. for instance, if you Y off the n2o for two systems, the larger shot will be taking away from the smaller shot. you have an unbalanced situation. one robbing from the other.

bottles are tilted forward at a slight angle. just can't tell in the pic. and i've consulted nytrex and compucar about my bottle orientation. actually, it's better to have it that way.

because i'm lazy and haven't hidden the wire yet.

i don't mind the questions at all.

 

This is why most people wire the mirco switch like a safety devise to run a relay off of it and not actually run the noids, the noids get power from the other side of the relay normally rated much higher then the what you actually needed for your load...

It is the same as other safety items, you wouldn't run 2 fuel pressure switches would you? No, not normally unless you were running two fuel systems. Plus it will be easier to add to and make mods to your system later without all the added stuff in there.

Sorry but I use/look at micro switches as a safety item, for example, it won't come on till it is at full throttle or it needs to meet these conditions before it is activated (full throttle, above turn on RPM if using a window switch, fuel pressure is above the cutoff point, and system is armed). Looking at it this way and wiring it like that then you only need one. It is easy to do - just make a loop through the safety items, when one is met it sends power to the next. Power comes into the main arming switch then goes to the next safety item (switch or whatever you feel should be next), then when that is satisfied the connection closes and sends power to the next item (FPS), and so on. This also helps in troubleshooting when something isn't working because you can easily test where the power stopped in the loop.

Everything else you posted sounds right, and sorry didn't notice the bottles sloped forward...

 

sorry. i don't have all those safety items on my car. too many items to fail. i was going to do the whole relay thing. but decided against it. i have a wiring schematic to use a dual relay so when i flipped a switch it would shut the first stage off and turn the second on. never had a noid fail due to not having a relay. considering the microswitch is 15 amp, it would be a better breaker than a 30 amp relay.

not saying safety devices shouldn't be used. by all means, if you want to, have at it. i've seen too many issues with FPSS to keep me away from them. but, i take the chance that if the pressure drops too much, i kill my motor. expensive chance, i know. in ten years and five cars of having nitrous, haven't lost a motor, yet.

mine has only four places to fail. main switch (15 amp), microswitch (15 amp), noids, and grounds.

 

Why not just run a progresive controller -Vs- THe duel stage? For around $200 you can get an FJO controller that will allow you to jump off the line with little or no spray and bring it on at what ever progresion you want.

 

yet another electronic item to go out on me. from what i've read on it, it's a pretty good item. thought about it. a friend of mine that works at a performance store owed me some money. so, i got the second stage kit (noids to nozzle). plus it's the WOW actor that i like. progressively pulsing solenoids wear the seats out faster. i had a NOS controller years ago. you have to run redundant solenoids because of the wear on the solenoids.

 

A friend of mine had a auto 2:73 Ls1 with a 5177 dry kit that he and made a two stage from intructions he found online. 30 off the line than at 2700 the second selonoid came on to add 85 rwhp on top. I added a relay to his set up and one switch to make it 3 stages with 2 nitrous noids. What i did was the first would come on at wide open throttle to get the 2:73 to pull, at 2800 rpm the window switch would kick on shuting the first stage off turning on the 2nd stage with I jetted to a found 110's rwhp. If he flipped the 2nd switch up the #1 stage would come back on to make 140ish rwhp dry. You could do wet this way to but a 5177 kit used $350 with window switch and a couple of relays with a switch and easy as could be if you under stand how to use all five terminals of a relay.