Problem, when i open up my bottle my system goes dead. When the bottle is off the purge solenoid works. If the bottle is on and i crack the line coming off of it then the solenoid will open so i can purge the line. Other then that it wont work. I dont drive the car much but about every other time i drive it, it does this. It sounds like im getting to much pressure but i dont see why it would do this when i only have 950 in the bottle when i use it. Any help would be great. The solenoids are mounted on top of the intake on the motor but ive seen this done many times, so i dont know if they are getting to hot or not as i havent heard of anyone having a problem with it.

 

You either have weak solenoids or you are not getting enough
amperage to the solenoid. Make sure you are using a relay to
power your nitrous solenoid and if you already are using one then
the solenoid's probably bad.

Emil:93Z,383,Vortech,NOS,water/alky

 

How much current do the solenoids draw? I remember reading in a post not too long ago that the Mallory 685 box is only rated at 10 amperes for the window switch. Could it be that the Mallory box is holding the solenoids back? I'm curious myself now as I am near complete with my own nitrous install and I have the Mallory box as well. Also, Moshbmx1, didn't you say awhile ago that once you finished the install, you tried the system out and everything worked good? Did this problem just surface recently?

 

Yea the system works reallly good it just does this every so often. I dont drive the car that much only on the weekends mainly. It just does it when i first turn the bottleon, after awhile it will finally let it flow through the solenoids. As soon as i crack the line on the bottle it will start to flow it too but when i tighten it back up it will cut all power. I dont know if the nitrous in the line is getting to much pressure from sitting or what.

 

So it only happens with the purge solenoid and not the the two solenoids from the kit, correct?

Matt

 

I dont know if the other two work of not when it does this, i dont want to spray the car when the solenoid is acting up for fear something will happen. But it sounds like the whole system us dead. I actived the WOT switch and i didnt hear the n2o solenoid open up or click when the car was off.

 

The new fpss should be here tomorow so I will get that on and see if that was making it act weird.

 

It has to be that the solenoids are getting to hot where i have them mounted. The solenoids opened and purged fine when i got the car out then after driving for about 30 mins when i purged the system was dead.

 

My fuel solenoid is mounted right on the fuel rail where there's a lot of heat.....I took some of that flexible heat shield wrap that summit racing sells for starters and other electronics and put it around the solenoid... even after hours worth of driving it now stays just luke warm instead of being too hot to touch.....I also put a rubber plumbing washer between the solenoid bracket and bolt, to cut down the transfer of heat to the bracket and solenoid(from the fuel rail and intake manifold).......

 

Are you sure you have the solenoid "in" and "out" correctly connected?

 

It is possible; one thing you may want to look at is an intermittent electrical problem. When the system starts to act up maybe try connecting a multi meter just to double check before moving everything around.

Matt

 

The day that i first posted we spent a good 30-45 minutes with a multimeter checking everything and double checking to make sure that it had power. Fpss came today so im goign to hook that up and see if it doesnt solve it then if it still acts up then try heatshielding or buying a strut tower brace and making some brackets to attatch the solenoids to that to get them off the intake.

 

NOS says their Cheater fuel solenoid is rated at 1.6 amps and their
N2O solenoid is rated 10 amps.

I have my solenoids bolted on top of my fuel rail and have
no problems.
http://edusek.photosite.com/NOS/

Emil:93Z,383,Vortech,NOS

 

Almost positive we got it figured out. One of the wires from the mallory box to the fpps got the coating worn off so it was cutting power when it would touch the car. We ran a new wire and car worked great.
Matt, got the fpss and got it in no problem, thanks. Also got the tune in the car so as far as that goes its set.

Now the bad news...went out for a run in the car....sprayed on it through first and second, shifted into third and immediate overref....3rd and 4th gear clutch packs went out again. Looks like my built trans couldnt handle it. Calling Maxwell trans tomorow to see what they can do...thinking about going t56 swap.....suggestions?

 

Glad you got the wiring straightened out, sorry to hear about the bad news.

Matt