Alright.. the deal is my car has 195,000 miles on it, so it needs a rebuild.

I used to be really against nitrous because it isn't an "always-there" power adder, I thought it was a bit like cheating.

Well I got busted racing and that has changed a lot, I don't plan on doing anything on public roads anymore, and since I plan on making a trip to a drag strip a couple hours away maybe once or twice a year, might as well add power as cheaply as possible right?

I was debating H/C swap, but that's really going to take a toll on how acceptable gas mileage is and it's tolerability on the street.

Then I was considering supercharging/turbocharging the car, but turbo systems are HELLA expensive, and either way both need very low compression ratios to function worthy of paying $4k+

Now nitrous is what I am left with... it can be used on fairly normal compression(10.5 - 11.0 I suppose), is only used when you need it so it doesn't constantly drain your money via the gas pump, and I think having a bitchin purge setup would just kick so much *** Does that make me ricey? LOL.

I see why N2O is a great alternative.

Basically I just want to obtain a street friendly at-least-mid-low 13 second car using just bolt-ons(which I will need to buy first... ie: headers, CAI, true duals/ory pipe setup, 1.6RRs, hardened pushrods, a decent nitrous cam that can still give me a great sounding idle, 3000 or so stall converter, 3.73 gears, drag radials, suspension crap... long way to go)

But after I complete all of that(guessing I can have all/most of that done by this time next year), I will be looking at the biggest F-in nitrous kit I can throw at it to obtain a 9.XX time slip(is this even feasible or am I dreaming?).

I am also going to try and eventually make it a show-worthy car, so a really trick purge setup will be a must, but I suppose it can be added later.

I am saving to get headers, CAI, stall, and 3.73s, in the next few months, and after that I am looking at building a 4 bolt main, fully forged bottom end.I need to know how much I should expect to pay for one already assembled, with links please Reason I need it already assembled is because I do not have the tools nor a suitable workplace to do all the intricate work involved in assembling a shortblock, I think the heads and intake manifold I'll be good enough to do as soon as I get a good torque wrench

What is the limiting factor in how much spray you can shoot at the engine? I believe I read that heads are a limiting factor at about 150... but I also hear of people using 175 shots... Any knowledge on this subject I would greatly appreciate

Is it only really the pistons that have to be forged? Because it is my understanding that they are what take the most force when in any engine subjected to a power-adder...

I'd really like to stay away from getting my heads ported because I don't feel like sending my gas mileage to total **** just to go fast a couple times per year. Not to mention it's expensive as hell

Anyone with nitrous-specific motors, I'd like you guys to chime in what kind of modifications you have done, what you are dynoing at the wheels, what setup you are using, and any timeslips you may have so I can get an idea of what it will take to achieve my goal.

If 9s is impossible with stock unported heads.. I suppose I can settle for 10s

 

You will need 500-600 cu.in, with low enough compression to run regularly on the street an spray to the low 9s. I own 2 nitrous SBC's,a 63 Nova with a near stock, 10-1comp. 350 total street cruiser that I spray to low 11's an a 82 Z28 with NITROUS specific 388sbc, 13-1, Brodix T-1 heads an a roller cam that will run low 9's at 151mph. The Z28 would run the street but not easily an not far cause of the compression. Take away the compression on a small cu.in. engine an you loose a lot. Go with a nitrous big block or a turbo small block for a total street car that fast.

 

Hmmm... I was kinda hoping for LT1 advice?

I will probably do a lot of weight reduction mods like aftermarket K member, coil overs, lighter battery, skinny front runners for the strip, lighter aftermarket hood, etc etc...

I think at least high 10s is possible

edit:

Also, I'm right at sea level... so that should greatly help me out.

 

10s are totally reachable with a properly built 350 heads, cam and N20. I have done it personally and have seen it done with other LT1 cars. Nothing is cheap when you want to run 10's and 9's are even more expensive.

 

What kind of head work would be necessary? I don't want anything terrible radical when it's not on the gas...

edit:
I've been reading other threads and stuff to get an idea of what everything runs with which combos... I think I will just shoot for 11s because I need to keep costs fairly low, and I suppose I can always do heads later.

 

I think 11's are definately reasonable......I will be shooting for 11's next year with full bolt ons (minus ewp and 1.6 rr's) with a 150 shot of NX. All the stuff you listed is gonna cost some major coin, and I don't think you quite realize that. Your worrying about how the gas is gonna drain your wallet.....but all those mods will drain your wallet, bank account, and get you in debt unless you have a really good job. Just something to think about.....things add up quick. Then once you get everything done and have some power at the wheels you will start to break things like the rearend and the tranny.

 

I know I will probably be spending about $2000 for the basic bolt ons, then probably another $3000 or so for a rebuild/new shortblock.

I don't plan on having all of this done any time soon at all. I'm still in highschool so don't have any bills to pay aside from car insurance and cell phone.

I have access to lifts so I can do just about all of the work myself aside from installing rear end gears and assembling a short block. Those are probably the only things I'll need to worry about paying for labor.