Well, I put the nitrous kit on the car and when I first hit it, it would pop and shoot black smoke out. So me and a test friend sprayed it with the nozzle out of the elbow. It would pulse and wouldnt get a smooth flow. We bypassed the FPSS, and it came out nice and smooth. To test it, we just ran the car in neutral, pulled the nozzle out of the elbow. I got in the car and revved it up to where the window switch would turn it on, and hit the WOT switch while he watched what was going on. Well, I got my racetronix kit installed, with the new harness that runs up to the alternator. It ran a LOT better, but still popped. So I bypassed the FPSS and took it for a spin, car sprayed PERFECT. I noticed the FPSS was leaking a little gas. So I pulled it off, and when I looked inside the adapter for the FPSS, there was a big piece of metal stuck in it, looks like from when it was machined. So I cleaned it out, and put it back on the car. Then I went and tried it again. It sprayed perfect through 2nd gear, but when I hit 3rd it would start to pop like it did before I installed the walbro pump. Anybody have any ideas? I know I need to get a gauge on it, but I have no way of having a gauge on it while spraying. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Sorry for the long post

 

Yea, I agree, you really NEED to get a gauge on it.....IMO, the first thing you really need to do is verify "exactly" whats going on with the fuel pressure under load during a full pass(without the bottle).....Just hook up a fuel gauge with a regular 6 foot braided line....Temporarily run it through your window with a towel on the door sill so you don't end up with any scratches on your paint(mine goes thru the passenger window), you can hold the gauge yourself if you have to(done it many times), or better yet have your buddy hold it for you and have him closely verify what the fuel pressure is doing during a full throttle quarter mile pass.....at that point you'll know for certain "IF" you have a good stable amount of fuel pressure under full load conditions....and For Example: if it does drop a pound (or so) during the run, you'll know "exactly" where your FPSS would have to be set so that it won't shut (or pulse) your Nitrous solenoid off and on.........I just wouldn't take any more chances with letting it pop "or worse" fully detonate without verifying your under load fuel pressure....parts can break real fast even with just a little detonation........also, what is your FPSS set at?........what spark plugs & gap?.......what Nitrous & fuel jets are you running.........Joe

 

My FPSS is set at 35 PSI. I am running TR6's with .035 gap, I am tuning it all in with a 75 wet shot. I plan on running a 125, but wanna get everything going first. Also, I am using a Mallory 685 to pull timing to help keep me from detonating. I have a fuel pressure gauge that plugs screws into the schrader valve, so I will unhook the nitrous and then hook this up and tape it to my windshield to watch it. I plan on getting an electric fuel pressure gauge for my pillar pod, but dont have the cash to spare right now

 

You need to varify flowing fuel pressure. I am sure its fine expecially with the racetronix kit. But it is good to double check for safety.

Anyways after you know for sure the fuel pressure is not droping you need to adjust the fuel pressure safety switch.
Dave

 

I will be verifiying it today. Will the fuel pressure be different at WOT off and on the bottle?

 

Ok let us know if you need help adjusting the FPSS.
Dave

 

With the racetronix kit it "should" stay fairly constant. It is normal to see a slight fluctuation in fuel pressure due to the changing demand. The more demand (HP) you are putting on the fuel system the more volume the pump has to move in order to keep pressure constant. The regulator is changing the amount of fuel flowing through the return to try and keep pressure stable.

The closer you are to the limits of the fuel system the more pressure drop you will see over a run due to the fact you are using the fuel faster than the pump can supply it.

What you don't want to see is a steady drop in pressure over a run, this is an indication of an inadequate fuel pump.

 

Did you verify this or just going of the factory preset?

 

I am just going by what the factory said, I dont know how to verify it. It is a HSW FPSS.

 

Also, my car runs rich. I still have the same o2's I had on the car when I put my ceramic coated headers on. I have seen a major loss in gas mileage, and when I am at WOT and I shift when not on the bottle, everyone tells me I shoot blue flames about a foot long out the back. I have new o2's I just got in yesterday ready to go on tonight, think the car running rich could be compounding my problems?

 

We need to address one issue at a time....

To adjust the FPSS....with the car at idle, and the bottle closed and no nitrous in the feed line. Disconnect the fuel line from the nozzle, have a firend hold the line into a catch can and activate the kit. slowly tighten the screw on the end of the FPSS until the fuel flow pulsates, then back off the screw 3/4 of a turn.

As far as being rich,
Do you have a custom tune in the car?

 

Ok, I will do that today. The car does have a custom tune from MadZ28. I got it done back in July, and the car never ran rich until about a week after my header install. The tune was for 93 octane fuel, advanced timing a couple of degrees, desensitized knock sensor, adjusted speedo for gears, and deleted emmissions equipment. I know I have a small leak at my header flange on the pass side, but I don't think enough to make this big of a difference. I have another set of gaskets ready to in, but just havent found the time to do it.

 

An exhaust leak upstream of the O2's is going to make them see a false lean condition and tell the PCM to add more fuel.

 

I know, but the leak is not that bad, so I wouldnt expect it to give it enough extra fuel to shoot footlong blue flames and lose about 50 miles per tank.

 

sometimes it doesn't take much.

If the car was running fine before than something has changed.