Spraying into the MAF - worried about freezing it?
Spraying into the MAF - worried about freezing it?
I am currently running a dry kit, that sprays into the side of the air lid. is it not safe to spray the n20, or atleast 'point' the spray directly towards the MAF housing and evitably the TB? I have heard varied things about freezing the screen (if you haven't descreened yet) or freezing the sensor, etc, etc.
The reason i ask is becuz the 125 hit doesn't feel as abrupt as it did with the LT1 - where i sprayed into the air box elbow that curved upward into the MAF...the LS1 seems to pull smoothly while on n20, but there is not sudden hit, like the LT1 on dry.
thanks gang.
KASR
The reason i ask is becuz the 125 hit doesn't feel as abrupt as it did with the LT1 - where i sprayed into the air box elbow that curved upward into the MAF...the LS1 seems to pull smoothly while on n20, but there is not sudden hit, like the LT1 on dry.
thanks gang.
KASR
If this is a kit designed as a dry kit for an LS1, for example, you will have to spray it BEFORE the maf so the engine can know to add fuel. If this is just a single fogger nozzle that you are adding nitrous and fuel, you would want to put it in after the maf. In your case, spraying dry into the lid, yes it goes before, and no you shouldn't have to worry about problems with freezing the maf.
Not sure which dry kit you are using but there are dry kits that spray both before and after the MAF...the 5176NOS dry kit for example sprays after the MAF...i'm not sure how this works but a frined of mine has this kit and it sprays after the MAF....
As for not being as hard of a hit i would htink it would depend on how far away the nozzle is away from the throttle body...on my setup i have it about 3" away from the TB....and i can definitely feel the car jump forward when i spray....others have dry kits that spray about 12" in front of the MAF which is another 12" in front of the TB and its not as much of a sudden hit as on my car...
hope this helps...
As for not being as hard of a hit i would htink it would depend on how far away the nozzle is away from the throttle body...on my setup i have it about 3" away from the TB....and i can definitely feel the car jump forward when i spray....others have dry kits that spray about 12" in front of the MAF which is another 12" in front of the TB and its not as much of a sudden hit as on my car...
hope this helps...
Appears the original post is from someone with an LS1 and he is spraying into the airbox. This is the standard install for the NOS 5177 dry kit for the LS1, that mounts a nozzle in each side of the airbox. There is no danger of “freezing” the MAF, as long as you do not impinge liquid N2O directly on the sensor elements. The 5177 kit is a proven method, and I have seen excellent results using this kit in the 125-150HP range.
An example of NOS 5177 results.....
Whether or not the fuel system responds correctly to dry N2O before the MAF seems to depend on the capabilities and the function of the PCM. Obviously NOS thinks it works on the LS1, and not on the LT1 – the 5176 kit for the LT1 sprays after the MAF.
It would seem that the further you put the nitrous in front of the intake valves, the longer it would take to "hit"... but when you consider that the air can be moving at 200 ft/sec in the intake, the delay would seem to be pretty small. I would look at the plumbing after the nitrous solenoid, to see if there is an excessive length to the lines from the solenoid to the nozzle. Also look at the main nitrous line to make sure you don't have a heat source that is causing a vapor bubble... is it right against the exhaust at some point? Finally - are you purging?
An example of NOS 5177 results.....
Whether or not the fuel system responds correctly to dry N2O before the MAF seems to depend on the capabilities and the function of the PCM. Obviously NOS thinks it works on the LS1, and not on the LT1 – the 5176 kit for the LT1 sprays after the MAF.
It would seem that the further you put the nitrous in front of the intake valves, the longer it would take to "hit"... but when you consider that the air can be moving at 200 ft/sec in the intake, the delay would seem to be pretty small. I would look at the plumbing after the nitrous solenoid, to see if there is an excessive length to the lines from the solenoid to the nozzle. Also look at the main nitrous line to make sure you don't have a heat source that is causing a vapor bubble... is it right against the exhaust at some point? Finally - are you purging?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
WobblySausage
LT1 Based Engine Tech
6
Oct 7, 2015 02:44 PM
WobblySausage
Drivetrain
4
Oct 7, 2015 10:09 AM



I wasn't thinking about a Dry kit.
