pistons+N2O
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 480
basically you've got two main types- cast and forged.
normally your stock or OEM pistons are just a regular cast aluminum piston. the next step up would be a cast hypereutectic piston, which basically just adds a little more silicon in the aluminum mix to strengthen the piston. hypereutectic pistons are better than OEM pistons, but are not the best.
from there you move up to forged pistons. the main two types of alloys used in the aluminum forged pistons are 2618 and 4032. forged pistons offer many more advantages over cast pistons including- density, strength, and durability. they are lighter and also help the engine to run cooler than with a cast piston.
a important advantage of forged over cast is what happends at the point of piston failure. generally, under extreme conditions, such as detonation, forged pistons tend to sort of "get plastic", and fail gradually. meaning there's normally time to replace them before the engine is gone. hypereutectics are more prone to facture and can actually break to pieces under extreme conditions, often wasting a motor.
obviously, the best route to go would be to build a bottom end consisting of a good forged set up (pistons, rods) but understandably not everyone can afford that. the stock pistons on a LT1 should be good up to a 150 shot or so. if the N2O is to be used on a regular basis and you are looking for longevity, i would stick closer to a 100 (maybe occassionally swapping the 150s). i've sen people run a higher shot (than 150), but most of the time those are poeple that have other modes of transportation, if you get my drift
good luck, jon
normally your stock or OEM pistons are just a regular cast aluminum piston. the next step up would be a cast hypereutectic piston, which basically just adds a little more silicon in the aluminum mix to strengthen the piston. hypereutectic pistons are better than OEM pistons, but are not the best.
from there you move up to forged pistons. the main two types of alloys used in the aluminum forged pistons are 2618 and 4032. forged pistons offer many more advantages over cast pistons including- density, strength, and durability. they are lighter and also help the engine to run cooler than with a cast piston.
a important advantage of forged over cast is what happends at the point of piston failure. generally, under extreme conditions, such as detonation, forged pistons tend to sort of "get plastic", and fail gradually. meaning there's normally time to replace them before the engine is gone. hypereutectics are more prone to facture and can actually break to pieces under extreme conditions, often wasting a motor.
obviously, the best route to go would be to build a bottom end consisting of a good forged set up (pistons, rods) but understandably not everyone can afford that. the stock pistons on a LT1 should be good up to a 150 shot or so. if the N2O is to be used on a regular basis and you are looking for longevity, i would stick closer to a 100 (maybe occassionally swapping the 150s). i've sen people run a higher shot (than 150), but most of the time those are poeple that have other modes of transportation, if you get my drift
good luck, jon
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 46
Originally posted by COMNBYU
basically you've got two main types- cast and forged.
normally your stock or OEM pistons are just a regular cast aluminum piston. the next step up would be a cast hypereutectic piston, which basically just adds a little more silicon in the aluminum mix to strengthen the piston. hypereutectic pistons are better than OEM pistons, but are not the best.
from there you move up to forged pistons. the main two types of alloys used in the aluminum forged pistons are 2618 and 4032. forged pistons offer many more advantages over cast pistons including- density, strength, and durability. they are lighter and also help the engine to run cooler than with a cast piston.
a important advantage of forged over cast is what happends at the point of piston failure. generally, under extreme conditions, such as detonation, forged pistons tend to sort of "get plastic", and fail gradually. meaning there's normally time to replace them before the engine is gone. hypereutectics are more prone to facture and can actually break to pieces under extreme conditions, often wasting a motor.
obviously, the best route to go would be to build a bottom end consisting of a good forged set up (pistons, rods) but understandably not everyone can afford that. the stock pistons on a LT1 should be good up to a 150 shot or so. if the N2O is to be used on a regular basis and you are looking for longevity, i would stick closer to a 100 (maybe occassionally swapping the 150s). i've sen people run a higher shot (than 150), but most of the time those are poeple that have other modes of transportation, if you get my drift
good luck, jon
basically you've got two main types- cast and forged.
normally your stock or OEM pistons are just a regular cast aluminum piston. the next step up would be a cast hypereutectic piston, which basically just adds a little more silicon in the aluminum mix to strengthen the piston. hypereutectic pistons are better than OEM pistons, but are not the best.
from there you move up to forged pistons. the main two types of alloys used in the aluminum forged pistons are 2618 and 4032. forged pistons offer many more advantages over cast pistons including- density, strength, and durability. they are lighter and also help the engine to run cooler than with a cast piston.
a important advantage of forged over cast is what happends at the point of piston failure. generally, under extreme conditions, such as detonation, forged pistons tend to sort of "get plastic", and fail gradually. meaning there's normally time to replace them before the engine is gone. hypereutectics are more prone to facture and can actually break to pieces under extreme conditions, often wasting a motor.
obviously, the best route to go would be to build a bottom end consisting of a good forged set up (pistons, rods) but understandably not everyone can afford that. the stock pistons on a LT1 should be good up to a 150 shot or so. if the N2O is to be used on a regular basis and you are looking for longevity, i would stick closer to a 100 (maybe occassionally swapping the 150s). i've sen people run a higher shot (than 150), but most of the time those are poeple that have other modes of transportation, if you get my drift
good luck, jon
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 782
From: Beaufort,SC
stock LT1 pistons are hypereutectic.......
i sprayed the hell out of mine with the 150 shot with TR6's only pulling 2* of spark till i lost a piece of a piston. i was going through about a bottle a week. the hyper pistons cannot handle the heat and the ring lands begin to rack. if you spray a 150, pull 4* of spark to keep the heat down.
now i am just trying to get this 383 running right so i can spray the forged slugs to death!
i sprayed the hell out of mine with the 150 shot with TR6's only pulling 2* of spark till i lost a piece of a piston. i was going through about a bottle a week. the hyper pistons cannot handle the heat and the ring lands begin to rack. if you spray a 150, pull 4* of spark to keep the heat down.
now i am just trying to get this 383 running right so i can spray the forged slugs to death!
Thanks guys can any of you tell me who makes a good cheap set of forged pistons. 
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 960
Originally posted by '95 z-28/ '00 montepace
stock LT1 pistons are hypereutectic.......
i sprayed the hell out of mine with the 150 shot with TR6's only pulling 2* of spark till i lost a piece of a piston. i was going through about a bottle a week. the hyper pistons cannot handle the heat and the ring lands begin to rack. if you spray a 150, pull 4* of spark to keep the heat down.
now i am just trying to get this 383 running right so i can spray the forged slugs to death!
stock LT1 pistons are hypereutectic.......
i sprayed the hell out of mine with the 150 shot with TR6's only pulling 2* of spark till i lost a piece of a piston. i was going through about a bottle a week. the hyper pistons cannot handle the heat and the ring lands begin to rack. if you spray a 150, pull 4* of spark to keep the heat down.
now i am just trying to get this 383 running right so i can spray the forged slugs to death!
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,428
From: Woodstock,Georgia
Originally posted by '95 z-28/ '00 montepace
stock LT1 pistons are hypereutectic.......
i sprayed the hell out of mine with the 150 shot with TR6's only pulling 2* of spark till i lost a piece of a piston. i was going through about a bottle a week. the hyper pistons cannot handle the heat and the ring lands begin to rack. if you spray a 150, pull 4* of spark to keep the heat down.
now i am just trying to get this 383 running right so i can spray the forged slugs to death!
stock LT1 pistons are hypereutectic.......
i sprayed the hell out of mine with the 150 shot with TR6's only pulling 2* of spark till i lost a piece of a piston. i was going through about a bottle a week. the hyper pistons cannot handle the heat and the ring lands begin to rack. if you spray a 150, pull 4* of spark to keep the heat down.
now i am just trying to get this 383 running right so i can spray the forged slugs to death!
.....same here.....broke the ring lands in #1 sprayn a 150 shot hard and often. The block is a the machine shop right now. This warm weather is gettn me real antsy. Im about ready to put the kit in the mini van.....Ive got 3 full bottles to spend.