N2O Tech Discussion for the use of Nitrous Oxide

Pics of my manual ball valve setup

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Old May 26, 2005 | 07:28 PM
  #1  
Loadre's Avatar
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Pics of my manual ball valve setup

http://slackercracker.com/hpt/Loadre/MiscCar%20001.jpg
http://slackercracker.com/hpt/Loadre/MiscCar%20002.jpg

List of parts -

'-4 to -4 swivel' into a '-4 to 3/8 pipe thread' into 'check ball' valve into '3/8 pipe thread to -4'

Check valve found here -
http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/pr...=&lstBool=true
Old May 26, 2005 | 08:02 PM
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup



You already have a bottle valve. I know I'm missing something...?

Ryan
Old May 26, 2005 | 08:55 PM
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup

You can open the bottle and leave the ball valve closed, thus being able to see pressure without having it against the noids.
Old May 26, 2005 | 09:30 PM
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup

Too bad that one is not electric.
Old May 27, 2005 | 09:37 AM
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup

What size is your main line? That valve has a 1/8" (0.125") opening. A -4AN hose has an inside diameter of 7/16" (0.2187"). Haven't you built a restriction into your system?
Old May 27, 2005 | 12:04 PM
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup

Originally Posted by Loadre
You can open the bottle and leave the ball valve closed, thus being able to see pressure without having it against the noids.
I see. You can get a bottle valve with 3 fittings. One for the feed, one for blow down, and one for a gauge/transducer (1/8 NPT). The last port is directly into the tank (before the valve).

Ryan
Old May 27, 2005 | 12:10 PM
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup

Originally Posted by Injuneer
What size is your main line? That valve has a 1/8" (0.125") opening. A -4AN hose has an inside diameter of 7/16" (0.2187"). Haven't you built a restriction into your system?
Don't you mean -4AN = 1/4" --> 4/16" --> .25"?

7/16 = .4375. .2187" = radius, not the diameter, right?

Sorry, just a little . Always thought AN = -3 = 3/16, -4 = 4/16, -6=6/16, etc...

Ryan
Old May 27, 2005 | 02:01 PM
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup

I complicated things with a typo.... should have said:

"A -4AN hose has an inside diameter of 7/32" (0.2187"). "

The "rule of thumb" for AN hoses/fittings is that the "number" used in the AN designation is APPROXIMATELY the OUTSIDE diameter of an equivalent metal tube. A -4AN hose would be similar to 1/4" (0.25") OUTSIDE diameter tubing.

But the fluid only flows in the area defined by the INSIDE diameter of the tubing. That is 7/32" for an Aeroquip S/S braided hose.
Old May 27, 2005 | 02:07 PM
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup

Ok. I was never taught what exactly it was.

Thanks .
Ryan
Old May 27, 2005 | 04:29 PM
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup

Fred, I will be seeing how it works on the dyno in a couple weeks. If it costs much power then it will come off.

Ryan, this method is also less than half as expensive than the 45 degree pureflo valve.
Old May 27, 2005 | 07:47 PM
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup

Load, if it supplies enough juice, more power to ya .

Ryan
Old May 28, 2005 | 10:26 PM
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup

u can get the same thing with a AN male fittings on it for 8 dollars at ace hardware.
Old May 28, 2005 | 11:23 PM
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup

Originally Posted by Serene
u can get the same thing with a AN male fittings on it for 8 dollars at ace hardware.
What's the pressure rating on it?
Old Jun 5, 2005 | 02:41 AM
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup

I want this setup.
What all would I need? Have any part numbers I can take to my local speed shop? Whats the estimate on the total cost?
This is a great way to monitor pressure, especially in the summer heat. For me, this is a must have.
Old Jun 5, 2005 | 11:23 AM
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup

Total cost is the valve ($27ish) + about $20 for fittings. Your local speed shop should just have an area displaying AN fittings, such as aeroquip, etc. If you examine the picture it's rather self explanatory. The connector with two blue ends and a red piece in the middle is a -4 to -4 connector. The threads in the body of the ball valve area 3/8 pipe thread (pipe threads narrow as you tighten it so it gets hard to tighten pretty quick, remember that), so to go from the -4 connector to the 3/8 threads of the valve you need a -4 to 3/8 connector. To go back from the threads of the valve to the -4 hose that runs to your solenoids you need another -4 to 3/8 connector, you just turn it the other way.

Items needed:
(1)Ball Valve
(1)-4 to -4
(2)-4 to 3/8

The easy rundown of how it goes together

<Test Port with Gauge and Bottle Transducer> - <-4 to -4> - <-4 to 3/8> - <Valve> - <3/8 to -4>

If you've got any more questions let me know.



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