NX Kit LT1
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 17
NX Kit LT1
NX kit Lt1
stage 1 EFI kit (50-150hp) with 10lb. bottle, bottle warmer, fuel pressure safety switch, gauge, nGk TR6 plugs, window switch w/pills,purge kit,blow down tube. $925
what do you guys think..anything esle i would need to install this kit?? what kind of stalls is everyone running?? Also what cam would be nice with a NX..i have the hotcam now will that be ok or do i need to change it? thanks for the info.
stage 1 EFI kit (50-150hp) with 10lb. bottle, bottle warmer, fuel pressure safety switch, gauge, nGk TR6 plugs, window switch w/pills,purge kit,blow down tube. $925
what do you guys think..anything esle i would need to install this kit?? what kind of stalls is everyone running?? Also what cam would be nice with a NX..i have the hotcam now will that be ok or do i need to change it? thanks for the info.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 432
From: Jersey
I think thats a little high even i it does come with all that stuf. you will also want to use the pills that are like 3-4,000 rpm modules(when the nx will turn on) and if u have an auto and its stock you should get a pill that is around 5600 rpms to shut off the nos before the car shifts, running the nos through the shifts on a stock a4 tranz will kill the trans pretty quickly. also a wide open throttle switch would be good to have too. most people are runin atleast a 3000 stall on up to a 3600 stall convertor. and if i remeber correctly the hot cam is like a 110-112 lobe sepration angle.meaning the gains wont be as good using the spray on that cam. why you ask? Because the more lobe seperation, the less valve overlap which is what nos,supercharged,turbocharged cars work with best. take the stock cam. it has a lobe seperation angle of 116-117. the stock cam works very well with the juice.if your gonna change cams, look into the comp extreme energy ones with the 114 lobe sep angles. hope this helps!!!....................
Last edited by MattysTA; Sep 4, 2003 at 08:53 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 432
From: Jersey
oh yeah and also you should invest in a fuel pessue gauge, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to make sure you have good fuel pressure while spraying so you dont go lean and have a problem(break something) goodluck with it and have fun!!!!!
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,319
From: Jackson, NJ, USA
Originally posted by MattysTA
oh yeah and also you should invest in a fuel pessue gauge, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to make sure you have good fuel pressure while spraying so you dont go lean and have a problem(break something) goodluck with it and have fun!!!!!
oh yeah and also you should invest in a fuel pessue gauge, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to make sure you have good fuel pressure while spraying so you dont go lean and have a problem(break something) goodluck with it and have fun!!!!!
AFPR will not help for long term gains, PCM will adjust for it. And, you get extra fuel by the fuel jet, u don't need to increase pressure or you'll screw up the jetting fuel/NITROUS ratio calculated by NX. If you are spraying more then a 100 shot and are running lean get an inline or intank pump, that will allow the fuel pressure to remain at a level it is SUPPOSED to be at and not drop off. And the good thing about a wet kit is you can tune it yourself, get some runs in and log them and adjust the fuel/nitrous jetting to get around 850+mv on the 02's for OPTIMAL performance. I have mine at 900mv though just for increased safety margin. Increasing fuel pressure via a AFPR is not a good idea because
A)nx jets are designed to flow fuel at STOCK fuel pressure.(and if your running lean on a wet kit, the pump is maxed out, you need a booster or a new one)
B)the PCM will adjust the fuel tables eventually for the increased pressure and negate the increased fuel flow.
Enjoy
Last edited by Hawk; Sep 5, 2003 at 06:51 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 432
From: Jersey
originally posted by hawk
AFPR will not help for long term gains, PCM will adjust for it.
AFPR will not help for long term gains, PCM will adjust for it.
Me:
Yeah for the fuel injectors,Not the nozzle. the reason for increasing your fuel pressure if its under 40psi is to keep the fuel line for the solenoid/nozzle well fed to prevent a lean condition while the fuel and nos are mixing in the nozzle and the computer cant compensate for that since it is being sprayed after the MAF
And, you get extra fuel by the fuel jet, u don't need to increase pressure or you'll screw up the jetting fuel/NITROUS ratio calculated by NX.
Me:
How is that? the jets are made for the amount fuel the shot calls for it wont let more fuel through it than that, thats why its drilled a certain size. it regulates the fuel going through. more pressure wont have much affect on how much fuel will be able to pass through it.
If you are spraying more then a 100 shot and are running lean get an inline or intank pump, that will allow the fuel pressure to remain at a level it is SUPPOSED to be at and not drop off.
Me:
Get and inline/intank pump for anything over a 100 shot . yeah wait till you run too lean and BOOM!
And the good thing about a wet kit is you can tune it yourself, get some runs in and log them and adjust the fuel/nitrous jetting to get around 850+mv on the 02's for OPTIMAL performance. I have mine at 900mv though just for increased safety margin.
me:
O2 sensors are not read by the pcm at WOT for adjusting the A/F ratio, meaning tuning that way is not the way to go, you tune by datalogging your BLMS at WOT
Back to my first statement about that in this post:
Increasing fuel pressure via a AFPR is not a good idea because
A)nx jets are designed to flow fuel at STOCK fuel pressure.(and if your running lean on a wet kit, the pump is maxed out, you need a booster or a new one)
B)the PCM will adjust the fuel tables eventually for the increased pressure and negate the increased fuel flow.
Enjoy
A)nx jets are designed to flow fuel at STOCK fuel pressure.(and if your running lean on a wet kit, the pump is maxed out, you need a booster or a new one)
B)the PCM will adjust the fuel tables eventually for the increased pressure and negate the increased fuel flow.
Enjoy
Hey Hawk did you figure out how to get that sled to hook yet? Watch for that concrete divider....lol
Last edited by MattysTA; Sep 5, 2003 at 09:47 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,319
From: Jackson, NJ, USA
Originally posted by MattysTA
Me:
Yeah for the fuel injectors,Not the nozzle. the reason for increasing your fuel pressure if its under 40psi is to keep the fuel line for the solenoid/nozzle well fed to prevent a lean condition while the fuel and nos are mixing in the nozzle and the computer cant compensate for that since it is being sprayed after the MAF
Ok then, if you INCREASE your fuel pressure you are INCREASING the amount of fuel flowing throw the fuel jet per unit time, and MORE fuel then is needed. Say if you are spraying a 100 shot, and the stock system is adequate(it is). Tell me what putting in a AFPR and incrasing the fuel pressure will do??? Well, like stated will increase fuel pressure MORE then the stock setting which the NX kit was DESIGNED for and therefore will run the nitrous mixture RICH. Waste of time, loss of power, and it's not a safety device either, aka, NOT useful. And it's NITROUS, not NOS.
[/B]
Me:
How is that? the jets are made for the amount fuel the shot calls for it wont let more fuel through it than that, thats why its drilled a certain size. it regulates the fuel going through. more pressure wont have much affect on how much fuel will be able to pass through it.
LOL, that is 100% wrong. Increased pressure thru an orifice will increase the net flow. Assuming we have no height differences P+0.5*p*v^2=constant
p is density so that doesn't change
velocity in a narrower cross section(aka the nozzle compared to the fuel line feeding it will have a HIGHER velocity)
So therefore an increase in pressure in the fuel lines(larger region) will increase the VELOCITY in the smaller area(the jet). WHat this means, utilizing common sense too, is that increasing pressure will flow MORE fuel. So your statement that more pressure will not have an effect on how much fuel passing thru the jet doesn't make sense, in fact, THATS ALL IT'S BASED ON. No matter what size orifice you have, more pressure will push more fluid out faster. Take a garden hose, and put a small orifice on the end in theory. Now, turn it on. Look at the flow. Then, go and turn the valve up and increase the pressure in the garden hose. Look at the flow now, yep, coming out at a higher velocity and more fluid per unit time will be coming out of the hose.
[/B]
Me:
Get and inline/intank pump for anything over a 100 shot . yeah wait till you run too lean and BOOM!
It all depends on tuning. It's not written in stone.
[/B]
me:
O2 sensors are not read by the pcm at WOT for adjusting the A/F ratio, meaning tuning that way is not the way to go, you tune by datalogging your BLMS at WOT
Ok then, why does my scanmaster directions tell me to adjsut my A/F ratio to dial in at 850mv at WOT?? It's a reference, and at WOT the o2's are in the BALLPARK of where you want to be. Thats why i am using 900mv now as a baseline. A wideband o2 would be the best, but a general "where should i be at" kind of tuning can be done with stock 02's.
Back to my first statement about that in this post:
[/B]
Hey Hawk did you figure out how to get that sled to hook yet? Watch for that concrete divider....lol
Yeah, it should hook now. And I'm always on the lookout for dividers
[/B]
Me:
Yeah for the fuel injectors,Not the nozzle. the reason for increasing your fuel pressure if its under 40psi is to keep the fuel line for the solenoid/nozzle well fed to prevent a lean condition while the fuel and nos are mixing in the nozzle and the computer cant compensate for that since it is being sprayed after the MAF
Ok then, if you INCREASE your fuel pressure you are INCREASING the amount of fuel flowing throw the fuel jet per unit time, and MORE fuel then is needed. Say if you are spraying a 100 shot, and the stock system is adequate(it is). Tell me what putting in a AFPR and incrasing the fuel pressure will do??? Well, like stated will increase fuel pressure MORE then the stock setting which the NX kit was DESIGNED for and therefore will run the nitrous mixture RICH. Waste of time, loss of power, and it's not a safety device either, aka, NOT useful. And it's NITROUS, not NOS.
[/B]
Me:
How is that? the jets are made for the amount fuel the shot calls for it wont let more fuel through it than that, thats why its drilled a certain size. it regulates the fuel going through. more pressure wont have much affect on how much fuel will be able to pass through it.
LOL, that is 100% wrong. Increased pressure thru an orifice will increase the net flow. Assuming we have no height differences P+0.5*p*v^2=constant
p is density so that doesn't change
velocity in a narrower cross section(aka the nozzle compared to the fuel line feeding it will have a HIGHER velocity)
So therefore an increase in pressure in the fuel lines(larger region) will increase the VELOCITY in the smaller area(the jet). WHat this means, utilizing common sense too, is that increasing pressure will flow MORE fuel. So your statement that more pressure will not have an effect on how much fuel passing thru the jet doesn't make sense, in fact, THATS ALL IT'S BASED ON. No matter what size orifice you have, more pressure will push more fluid out faster. Take a garden hose, and put a small orifice on the end in theory. Now, turn it on. Look at the flow. Then, go and turn the valve up and increase the pressure in the garden hose. Look at the flow now, yep, coming out at a higher velocity and more fluid per unit time will be coming out of the hose.
[/B]
Me:
Get and inline/intank pump for anything over a 100 shot . yeah wait till you run too lean and BOOM!
It all depends on tuning. It's not written in stone.
[/B]
me:
O2 sensors are not read by the pcm at WOT for adjusting the A/F ratio, meaning tuning that way is not the way to go, you tune by datalogging your BLMS at WOT
Ok then, why does my scanmaster directions tell me to adjsut my A/F ratio to dial in at 850mv at WOT?? It's a reference, and at WOT the o2's are in the BALLPARK of where you want to be. Thats why i am using 900mv now as a baseline. A wideband o2 would be the best, but a general "where should i be at" kind of tuning can be done with stock 02's.
Back to my first statement about that in this post:
[/B]
Hey Hawk did you figure out how to get that sled to hook yet? Watch for that concrete divider....lol
Yeah, it should hook now. And I'm always on the lookout for dividers
[/B]
Last edited by Hawk; Sep 6, 2003 at 11:48 AM.
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Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 539
From: Minneapolis
MattysTA
Yes I agree the XE nitrous cams should be better. I run the hot cam and trap at 119mph. My friend who also runs a hot cam traps at 120 mph. The hot cam is a better cam then people give it credit for. I haven't dynoed on the bottle, but made 357 rwhp and 360 torque. I raced my friends car with the 224/236 nitrous cam and we hung side by side dead even. Granted this was only on the motor, and he has LT-4 ported AFR heads/ long tubes. Acually my hot cam does a pretty good job. But to be honest, if I had the chance to do it again, I prob would go with a XE Nitrous cam.
Z
Yes I agree the XE nitrous cams should be better. I run the hot cam and trap at 119mph. My friend who also runs a hot cam traps at 120 mph. The hot cam is a better cam then people give it credit for. I haven't dynoed on the bottle, but made 357 rwhp and 360 torque. I raced my friends car with the 224/236 nitrous cam and we hung side by side dead even. Granted this was only on the motor, and he has LT-4 ported AFR heads/ long tubes. Acually my hot cam does a pretty good job. But to be honest, if I had the chance to do it again, I prob would go with a XE Nitrous cam.
Z
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