I'd like to hook up a NOS progressive controller just to have better grip during 1st and I think it will be a lot easier on the drivetrain, too.

Now, how does the controller activate? I assume it has a "power on" switch, but how does it know when I'm sprayin? Throttle microswitch maybe?
Also, more imortant, when I let off the gas during shifts, and stomp on it again in the next gear, will it "reset" itself everytime, in other words, will the timer be set to zero and starts to feed the juice again at the % that was dialed in before?
Or does it's timer run until you shut the controller off?

I'm really confused on this one...please help!

 

The controllers have a 12v labeled BAT terminal that you usualy hook up to your arming switch this is what powers the box. Then there is a switched terminal that goes to your micro switch this is what activates the box. There is also a ground and then your nitrous and fuel terminals. Once the controller has been activated it will not reset untill you take power away from it. If you get off the gas and then get back on it it will pick up right where you left off. This is how the 15835B works the 15834 is simalar but the wiring is slightly diffrent. For what you want to do I would use the 15835B

 

Progressive controllers suck. None work well (I sell NX even) and they are very hard on the solenoids.
You should be able to hook up with whatever shot you are using (doubt you are using too much). If you are hooking then spend the money on your suspension.

Other than that, SNOW abswered your Q.

Good luck
Dave
http://strokedta.vettextc.net/track/Dave-3.jpg (just motor run)

 

Thanks dude! That was the info i was looking for!
So, then i have to set the %'s to, let's say 30% and have the timer set to 5 or so seconds , so I can have grip in 1st and 2nd!
Later,

 

I run a NOS #5115 with a 100 shot, but I need it in first gear, too.
I might try the nos unit w/o the display, and if it doesn't work, i might sell it to a local ricer here in Hungary. BTW, I'm selling NOS stuff,too, here for all the dumbass ricers LOL
Regards

 

I was considering getting one of these Nitrous controllers & I have heard even from some of the NMCA guys that these controllers make the solenoids "flutter" which causes them to go bad after a VERY short time? Has anybody else heard of this or is it just me?
I was really interested because I'm getting ready to put in a 406 small block with a 4200 stall in my T/A and I am gonna need someway to find traction. So this controller would be a great idea if it would work?

 

Progressive's work great. I have the NX Maximizer,and thats been they key to my 1.51 60's with a stock torque arm.

Now,they DO beat up solenoids. They flutter/stutter/whatever you wanna call it the solenoids,and will cause premature wear.

 

Thanks racinlt1 I am changing over to a carb. from the fuel injection and I'm gonna put a Demon carb on it so I'm gonna use a plate system and the "pro" solenoids so I should probably get a longer life out of them? If it has worked for you I will definately look into it!
Thanks

 

When you use the controler, it pulses the solenoids realy fast(the so called flutter, shutter...) and it puts a real beating on the noids even if they are the bigger sized ones. There is some company that makes noids specificly designed to take the pulse beatings. That way u dont have to worry about them locking up on ya.

 

now only if some company came up with a box with electronically adjustable orifices for fuel and N2O .. ud run ur lines thru there and right in ur fogger nozzle.. no more jets that would be

 

Well, the way I look at it, If you need a progressive for anything less than a 200 shot with the low horsepower of your motors(considering most are probably less than 350 or 400 horse), then you need to put your money into the suspension.

Bottom line! You need as much power off the line as possible and cutting your power in half or more off the line doesn't help you at all.
If you are having problems off the line then get a time delay device and have the nitrous kick in a second or two after your launch. Does the same AND is a lot cheaper.
Adjust the activation time until it comes on at just the right time.

FWIW: Racin, I wouldn't be contributing your 60's to the progressive, if you could leave on the whole shot then they would be a lot better than 1.5's.
I hit 1.3's on just my motor, not even tuned-in perfect. I should hit 1.2's when spraying.
I don't use a progressive as you could probably deduce and never will.
If I have to cut some power out at the line I'll do it with my Dig 7, with timing.
I should be able to leave on my 300 and 400 shot.

Good luck,
Dave Brown
Xtreme Street 93 TA

 

Stroked .. can u lay out some details on ur suspension setup ?

i just picked up a full HAL/QA1 setup (and have all the other suspension goodies), and im planning on running 26 or 28" ET streets with 4.10 gears .. M6 .. street twin .. about 400 rwhp NA + 100 shot .. im wondering if i can spray out of the hole or if i should invest in a time delay box ...

 

Dave,i agree i should of done the suspension,but hasty decisions cause different things to be purchased.

I plan on losing the progressive with the new dual stage stroker combo.
I will also be redoing the entire suspension.
I agree my 60's would of been better without the progressive,hindsight is 20/20.

 

Hey racinLT1 let me know when you decide to sell you're nitrous controller!