I finished up the wiring today and I went to do the basic test that it describes in the manual. Basically, "key on", turn on the nitrous system switch, and press the gas pedal down and listen for the clicking of the solenoids. Well there is no noises coming from them whatsoever and I am drawing a big blank. I verified that all of my wiring was to the correct location and that all of the connections were intact. Another unusual thing that happened was that the Instrument Panel fuse blew causing the car not to start. I don't know if this is related or what. I do have a wire connected to the 1/4 female connector inside the fuse panel for the 12 volt switched source. If anyone has any ideas on where I can begin to properly troubleshoot this problem, it would be greatly appreciated as I am pulling my hair out right now. Thanks.

 

Are you using a RPM window switch? If you are try by-passing it.

Matt

 

I'm actually using the Mallory 685 box, but I do not have that hooked up currently. This is the N/X nozzle wet kit by the way. Currently, I have one lead of each solenoid connected directly to ground and another lead of each solenoid connected to the green wire of the relay. I have the black wire of the relay connected to the power block, I have the white wire of the relay connected to the ground block, and the red wire of the relay is connected to the one of the terminals of the WOT switch. The other terminal of the WOT switch is then connected to the ACC terminal on the system arming switch.

 

I don't know what color wires correspond with what terminals on your relay, but it should be wired up like so:

85 -- ground
86 -- to WOT switch (then from there to arming switch ACC terminal)
30 -- +12V from battery
87 -- to solenoids

Use a DMM to see if you are getting 12 volts at the solenoids when the system is activated. If not, trace your wiring back testing along the way to find out where you are losing power at. I would personally grab switched power at the orange wire coming off the ignition switch, with a fuse inline of course, since it will handle activating a relay no problem.

 

Thanks for the input so far... One thing that also happened yesterday was the car would not start and I had to use a jumper pack to get it going. After that, it was having trouble starting after that as well. I measure the voltage across the battery terminals and only measured 10.5-11 volts and I also meausred the voltage from the wire providing my switched 12 volt source and that is only putting out 10.38 volts as well. Since I am not even getting a full 12 volts anywhere,can this be why the solenoids and relay are not working? I'm going to put in a new alternator tonight and go from there in the meantime.

 

Can I suggest something seeing how we are doing the same thing except I've got a ZEX 82026 wet system. Unless you've got more extra $ than me, I wouldn't just put in a new alternator. I seriously doubt that is your problem unless it was an issue before you started.

Completely isolate the nitrous system from the loop and take take the Mallory out of the ignition system and go back to stock. Jump or charge the battery and see if things return to normal. If they do, add your Mallory hyfire back in. If that works then hook the nitrous system up without going through the Mallory ignition. ultimately though, you will hook your solenoid gounds to the lavender wire (window rpm) on the 685 when you are finished.

I'm going to take a guess that your arming switch for the nitrous is not right. It's looking like you are draining + voltage down. Or, you might not have the Mallory hooked up correctly if you are using the MSD harness with it.

 

Right now, everything is hooked up "barebone" style meaning that the Mallory box is not hooked up to the nitrous and I do not have the fuel pressure safety switch wired in either. I also did put in a brand new alternator yesterday and I am going to have the battery load tested today to make sure that I did not do any damage to the cells. Also, for the arming switch idea, I am using the Jimmy Jams nitrous switch panel so when I hooked up the switch and turned it on, it illuminated so I am assuming I have it wired correctly if it lights up when activated. Back to my main question though, is it possible that if the battery is only putting out 10-11 volts, the relay and solenoids will not activate. Do they at least need a minimum 12 volts at all times?

 

I'm not much help for you at the moment because it's a first for me too and my install isn't completed. At least the thread is kept alive.

As for the voltage requirements for the solenoids, they're actually little coils which have a relatively hefty amperage requirement so I can understand why you might suspect they aren't getting enough to activate. I'm sorry I can't answer you definitively on that but the fact you blew a fuse is not likely a fluke.

Let me throw something your way and maybe you can get some ideas from it. Keep in mind that a circuit is often controlled by breaking or making the ground. There is a possibility that you are switching (not swapping) both plus and negative to those solenoids in a round about fashion. In other words, the solenoids may be fed plus current and they are switched on when a ground is completed. You may be grounding out all the time and the solenoids are being held open. That could be why you aren't hearing them switch open and why your battery is being drained. Test for current across the solenoids when they should be closed (off).

Hope this makes some sense.

 

This wouldn't be the case since he's using a relay and it is what breaks the circuit. The positive voltage is held at the relay until it is activated then the circuit is complete and current is allowed to pass through. I checked the NX instructions to get the wire colors and it looks like the relay is wired up properly. It is possible that 10 volts is not enough to activate either the solenoids or the relay. I haven't ever tested that personally so let us know what happens. Otherwise you will need to use a multimeter to see where the circuit is being broken.

 

Yeah, I think my advice then is moot. Don't know if it is that bad of thing with the zex kit to not have any relays but it does eliminate one more device in the circuit. I'm hoping 200GTP had his alternator and battery tested before replacing them but it's his prerogative of course....

 

I just replaced the alternator a couple of days ago. The battery is now charging once again but I am still not getting a full charge on it like I used to. I took the battery into Autozone to have it load tested and they claim it is fine, but I am still a little skeptical. However, I am running more then 10 volts now so I will re-try the wiring tommorow and see what happens. Thanks for everyones help so far and I'll keep you updated.

 

I think the realy is wired wrong....

sounds like you have an open circuit causing low voltage at the battery

 

I wired the relay exactly as per the instructions supplied by N/X. I checked and re-checked my wiring.... I plan on going over it once again tommorow when I take another shot at it.

 

me and u are almost in the same boat here!!!
doing the "test" neither of the noids click, but i have the mallory hooked up. once i bypassed the mallory, they clicked the first time. i have given up since that day due to not knowing what the hell to do next, cuz after that i went through all the wiring and it checked out fine.
well GL to you and hope to hear u get it working soon

 

Quick question for you, where did you pull your 12volt switched source from for the nitrous arming switch. I spent an hour today going over my wiring once again and tried all over again and the solenoids still aren't clicking... I swapped a different relay that is the same type of course, and still no result, I also checked to make sure the ground to the relay is good and it was and I checked to make sure that the 12 volt source to the relay was good and it was. What concerns me is once again, I did a voltage check on my 12 volt switched source and I am only getting 11.40 volts.... so this leads me to wonder that if these relays are rated at 12 volts, maybe it is possible that there isn't enough juice to signal it??? I'm also going to take off the WOT switch tommorrow and check to make sure that it isn't defective, but I am guessing it is okay. Also, I will make a phone call to either Nitro Dave or to Nitrous Express directly and see if they can give me a hand.