I've decided that -my- Camaro will be Nitrous powered. That way I have on/off power - being a daily driver, I can simply run it all motor... and when I need the speed on the track, I've got the laughing gas.

I'll start with a 100 shot, I hear I can run that as much as I want, all day, every day, without causing any trouble.

But I know I'll want more than that. What needs to be built up to be able to handle a 200 shot?

Is it possible to have a dry 200 shot? Will fuel injectors be able to keep up? Or will I have to convert over to a wet kit?


-Jason

 

i dont think the stock injectors will be able to handle 200 dry shot. you can get a forged internals bottom end, and that should hold 200 shot. i'm planning to use summit forged rebuild kit, and should have no problem running 150 - 200 shot IMO. i'm sure other guys will give their opinions.....good luck

 

well stock ls1's do really well with a 150 shot.... less potent after that till you get the cam/heads and forged internals so you don't have a nice hole or warped piston.

 

i have been using 200 on my cast piston, stock crank and rods motor for about one bottle. the fuel pump i'm using can't keep up. so i went back to the 150. see my stuff at www.fl-thirdgen.org/mrr23

 

For 200 N2O shots:

-Forged Pistons (maybe cast with progressives).. I wouldn't push Hypereutechtics that hard if they break it will be costly
-Forged Crank
-Forged Rods
-Stud the bottom end minimum (or splay the caps)
-LT4 Timing Chain (or suitable heavy duty TC)
-Cam & Heads are a bonus but not needed to handle the shot
-Good clutch/tranny, or A/T in good condition
-Differential may need building depending on condition
-Upgrade ignition-plugs (gap .035), maybe a box & coil
-Upgrade fuel pump
-If dry, upgrade injectors to 36#s or 42#, then reprogram PCM

A progressive system will soften the impact of 200 HP shots, ease the stress on the components, may extend the life of your transmission and differential if stock depending on present condition. Also, you can retard timing when N2O is used and normal timing for driving around.
S

 

sound like that engine can take 200 shot easily

not sure about the tranny, i mean 4L60E suck.

BTW - is that your current setup?? i need to know the current affairs

 

Most can handle 100 HP shots no problem, 150 is the threshold, and 200 would require some more upgrades. This is speaking general and there are some freak engines out there that handle more.

As for me, Steve Beckett from Speed Technologies Inc has cut me some great prices. NX new maximizer, Dual-Stage, Gen X (no purge), remote bottle opener, and an extra micro-switch I'm going to connect in series with the TPS to be wired with the clutch pedal.

Based on the research, I'm going to keep it in the trunk (15# bottle) out of police eyes.

How was the dyno day? (Reply in the SouthWest Forum)

 

I would spray more with the hyperuetctics then i would with cast.

hyper's are stronger then cast,and modern Hyper's arent as bad as they first were.

either way,Forged is the way to go,SRP and TRW are quite affordable strong forged pistons.
I dont fully agree to studding the bottom end,but it wont hurt.
Stock crank is plenty strong for a 200 shot if good rods/pistons are used.

Many guys are going low 10's with stock cranks,so price the build accordingly.g

 

Hypereutechtics have less thermal expansion due to the silica content. Hypereutechtics are lighter than cast and can be used with tighter tolerances cold (less thermal expansion). They are more fragile and subject to ring land failure if there is too much pressure in the combustion chamber.

If you don't stud the blocks you are prone to spinning bearings.

You can use the stock crank but you are on the edge. If you've got 320 RWHP add 200 RWHP with an N2O shot... 520 RWHP on the stock crank exceeds the factory spec... remember that you have a 20% parasitic loss with an A/T so you are pushing over 620 flywheel hp. I'm sure there are some freak engines out there but it could be a costly gamble.

 

we have been through a few engines without studding the mains and never lost a bearing,gotta use good bolts if you dont stud it.

I know Hyper's are lighter,but they are still stronger then cast. i would be afraid to use more then a 100 shot on any cast piston.

Factory spec on the crank? OK........there are more then just freaks,if the engine has good rod's and pistons the stock crank will take a LOT more then expected.Lots of heads/cam/PA cars are well in the 10's with stock cranks,but they were built correctly.
Jason Warren went mid 9's for a year on a BIG shot with a stock crank.
i agree a forged crank would be much better,but budget builds dont aloow for a new crank,and have to make do with what is available.

 

i have to agree with both of you (expert) guys....

since i'm a newbiw, this is just my 2 cents

Wild1 - forged crank is very very good, it's strong and can give a huge peace of mind, but the downside is the cost.

Racinlt1 - i agree with you on the budget rebuild theory. i'm gonna try the summit forget rebuild kit next year. i dont really have any money to buy new forged crank (i wish i do though). we'll see what will the result.

i'm thinking about putting dual stage on my car after the rebuild though. i will be spraying mostly 100 shot for 1st stage and another 50 or 100 on the 2nd......i'm worried about my tires though. i went sideway on thursday spraying 75 shot while on a roll going 35-40mph......

 

if you are gonna do a dual stage,use the smaller shot for the first stage to aid traction. then bring in the bigger shot.
if you are planning a fairly stout setup with heads/cam/forged bottom end,you might as well move on to a drag specific tire and a 2nd set of wheels.

 

instead of dual stage you can use a n2o progessive controller like i do. i have the pills set for 200. i set the controller for 50% initial flow. then 3 seconds later 100% flow. just like a dual stage. you can see it here. http://www.fl-thirdgen.org/mrr23-13.html

 

Progressive's arent bad, i used 1 for the last 2 years.
Biggest problem is progressive's abuse the solenoids badly.

a 2 stage is the smart way to do it,albeit slightly more complicated.

My new combo will be a single stage at first,then i'll add a direct port 2nd stage and hit it HARD.

 

He is talking about an LS1 car.

If it is tuned right, with the right plugs etc. you would be fine to spray 200 on a stock motor. The LS1 bottom end (crank and rods) can hold up to a ton of HP. The pistons would be the first weak link but if you don't detonate, then they should be fine. Notice I said should be. A 200 shot is probably pushing your luck. I would keep it to a 150 shot. I never upgraded the fuel pump on my 2002 so I stayed at 100 (wet). If I had more money, I think I would have tried a 200 dry shot with upgraded fuel system and quite a bit of time on the dyno tuning it. That car is gone and I am on to a new one .