New to Nitrous got some ?s so I dont kill my LT1
New to Nitrous got some ?s so I dont kill my LT1
OK, first off, I'm going to be running a Wet 100HP shot.
What do I need to do to run this on a 100% stock car.
It's a 6 speed if it matters.
It is a:
NX N2O Kit + FPSS + Blowdown kit
This is a standard NX wet kit for GM fuel-injected vehicles with 10# bottle. Gets the fuel from the schrader valve/test port on the fuel rail.
It has everything that came in the kit 2 yrs. ago: WOT switch, master switch, mounting brackets, etc., except for a few HP pills. Only has 100 and 150HP pills. But other sets can be bought cheaply if you wish. It has some wear on the outside being this old, but everything works fine.
It also comes with a FPSS, safety blowdown fitting and tube, special bottle mounting bracket for the spare tire area of 4th gens.
What doesn't come with this that I will need, I need to make this AS SAFE AS POSSIBLE. What is a window switch and do I need it?
How hard of an installation is this? Do you have to run lines outside of the car or do they run inside or what?
Sorry for the stupid questions, but I want to research this before I kill myself and my car.
What do I need to do to run this on a 100% stock car.
It's a 6 speed if it matters.
It is a:
NX N2O Kit + FPSS + Blowdown kit
This is a standard NX wet kit for GM fuel-injected vehicles with 10# bottle. Gets the fuel from the schrader valve/test port on the fuel rail.
It has everything that came in the kit 2 yrs. ago: WOT switch, master switch, mounting brackets, etc., except for a few HP pills. Only has 100 and 150HP pills. But other sets can be bought cheaply if you wish. It has some wear on the outside being this old, but everything works fine.
It also comes with a FPSS, safety blowdown fitting and tube, special bottle mounting bracket for the spare tire area of 4th gens.
What doesn't come with this that I will need, I need to make this AS SAFE AS POSSIBLE. What is a window switch and do I need it?
How hard of an installation is this? Do you have to run lines outside of the car or do they run inside or what?
Sorry for the stupid questions, but I want to research this before I kill myself and my car.
You will be very happy with this kit. The window switch will turn the juice on and off for you. THis is important for you becouse if you juice below 3000 RPMs, you greatly increase your risk of damaged piston or blown rings. And the top cut off will save you when you miss a gear or over rev. Get the even pills and go 3000 to 5400 for stock. The dig 6 will retard your timing for you. The rev limiter is better becouse it still allows burning in the piston after the cut off. I recomend 3 degrees for stock 100 shot to be safe. It is a must and looks cool too. The bottle warmer is a must also. This is a sure way for an LT1 to eat 95% of the competition on the street!
The dig 6 is more of a safety device. I guess you wouldnt have to have it, but I wouldnt run N2O w/o it, yes you need NGK plugs. They are only about $1.50 each in Summit and I would trust my motor to no other. Also do you have a gauge? It is very important to keep your pressure at the desired amount. Spend some time investigating N2O on the web. Out of all my mods, nothing came close to the power of N2O. But saftey of my mill was very important so I went the extra expense of the RPM switch, Dig 6 , plugs, wires, coil, warmer and guage.
You'll want a coil and iginition. The digi 6 is a good choice but is a bit expensive. If you're only going to spary a 100 bigger an NO bigger. You can get a regular iginition that doesn't have adjustable retard and save a 100 bucks. If you're not sure if you want to spray bigger than 100 then get the digi 6 cause you will want to spray more(trust me) and you'll need to retard the timing. Also it wouldn't be a bad idea to get a better fuel pump, if your only gonna spray a 100 then you can get away with the stock if your going bigger get a better one. Good luck
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some have run autolites w/o trouble though.
