BAD 97 WS-6

I had just got thru tearing up a stang. I got off the gas and noticed the RPM's hanging in between 3,000 and 4,000 rpm. I first thought that my throttle was stuck open but I shut the motor off right away. I pulled in a lot and shut the motor off. Thats when I heard the hissing. I shut the bottle off and opened the hood to see frost on the TB, and my ram air box ice cold.
I took the solenoid apart yesterday. Totally apart, I needed a special tool. Looks like I had debris in the seat where the valve closes. The dumb seat is made of plastic, and had a nice indentation from use. Fricken plastic!! I used a dremel to smooth it out so it can have a flat surface to work with again. I will be putting it back together again. I guess I better start using a nitrous filter. Good thing the solenoid was only partly open because that could have blown my engine to pieces.

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BV Performance dynotune programming.
352 rwhp, 362 lbs/torque N20 not included
Mod List

My BAD WS-6

"You **** me off, I'll Spray you like a skunk"

BAD 97 WS-6

I just changed my mind. I am just going to buy the replacement part thru NX. It is only $60. It's better than $150 for a whole new solenoid. Plus, me using the dremel may have made the plastic too thin and with high pressure and time only means a failure again later. I rather pay $60 now than $4000 for a new rebuild.

CustomN2O

Good thing to buy the new plunger. That isnt plastic, its teflon, and if you didnt have it perfectly flat, it probably wouldnt seal. The best thing to do is take a razor blade, and cut off the top layer, even with the metal. This actually gives you more flow, and a new seat area. Good luck. Use a filter, and consider yourself lucky.

eyeoutthere

I know a lot of guys who use 2 solenoids in series to prevent that sort of thing.

gb95zconv

Use a fuel filter and service the silinoids at least once a year depending on how often you use the system(I do mine every 10-15 bottles). You can use 800 grit sand paper to remove the varnish biuldup and smooth the surface of the plunger. Just lay the paper on a flat surface and go to work.

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Greg
95 Z28 conv M6
Georgia F-Body Association

Stage 1 heads, 1.6rr, Meziere WP
lt4 hot cam,lt4 timing chain kit,52mm TB,
Hooker Headers, Pro 5 shifter,3.73s,
NX 150 progressive,
Self-tuned via Tunercat

gb95zconv

Opps....that should be N2O filter

BAD 97 WS-6

Thanx for the advice guys. Using one in series is a good idea. I just don't know if I have enough room to do that with the way I have them mounted. We shall see. Thanx for the tips.

iniviate

i have never really understood this line of thinking...

how are you going to know if one fails?

BAD 97 WS-6

That is a good point. You won't know that one is stuck open until they are both stuck open. But you will be able to tell if one doesn't open at all. But it's safer for it not to open at all than to open when you don't want it to.

Tofus 93Z28

FWIW, i use my NOS remote opener as another safety measure, when im just about to finish my run i close the remote opener... the pressure drops some, but if it continues to drop i immediately know if my solenoid is sticking....

JordonMusser

if you ahve 2 in series, they are unlikely to fail at the same time.. so just check them everynow and then

also, don't run w/o a n2o filter

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-94 Black T-Topped Z28 M6, 10s, and daily driven!
-96 CBR F3, modded of course
-92 Talon Tsi AWD, also too many mods..
-99 Tony Kart
http://www.fastblackcar.com

nosfed

These are NX noids? Why not send them in for a free rebuild?