camzaro28

ok guys i am stumped, sorta.
been having alot of popping go on when i hit the N20. i always had the mallory set at 6.0 for the 150 shot. and would go WOT and just let out cuz of all the popping. so i set it at 15.0 to see what would happen, and the car popped faster and barely moved out of its own way. so obviously i got out of it real quick. so i decided to see what would happen with it at 1.0( that was what it was set at when i got it, guess that would be 0 timing) and it pulled hard, with only a few pops here and there.

so where i am stumped is, i guess i am advancing the timing 6.0-15.0, when i should be retarding it. ( i mean that is what it says, selectable retard).

selectable retard is "mode 3", whereas "mode 4" is start retard. that is at 0.1
and when i press the up arrow it goes 0.2, 0.3, etc. if i press down it goes to 10.0,9.9, 9.8, etc. should i lower the "start retard"?

thanks in advance, i lost the mallory instructions in the recent move. i am going to go to there site now to look for info, but figured i would post here first since u guys have first hand experience with it.

camzaro28

ok here is what i found.

mode 3- this is a selectable high-speed timing retard.
it is selected when the YELLOW wire coming out of the
end panel has 12 volts applied. the range is 1 to 15 degrees in .1 degree steps.

mode 4- start retard value. This amount of retard is applied whenever the engine RPM is below 500. The range is .1 to 10 degrees in .1 degree steps


sounds to me like it is advancing, dunno.
suggestions please!!

97SS0594

lower it, i had 9.5 degrees pulled (2 degrees per 50hp) i hit my 1st stage (125) and it was popping, i lowered it to 6, still popping but getting better, took it to 5 and its hard and clean, they may say pull the timing but if its detonating with that much pulled and running well with not as much pulled i vote for putting it where it runs the best! fyi i have the mallory hyfire VI

camzaro28

i read that a few times, but i dont quite grasp what u r saying.

u had 9.5 then lowered it to 6, then 5.

i thought 9.5 was more taken out, and to go to 5 from 9.5 would be adding timing back?
i thought detonation was from the timing being advanced, sounds like u are saying its detonating with it being retarded?
im confused, this mallory and me are not getting along!

i have it set at 1.0 right now, as that is where it feels best( still pops). but it needs to be like -3.0 or something.

as of right now, i dont see how the mallory is doing any justice to the system at all.

01Z

Hi again. I think you have it figured out but you do realize that the hyfire spark retard is set to 10.0 from the factory and not 1.0? Also, I'm pretty certain the mallory won't advance your timing under any circumstance. The reason being is the way the unit works. It can't anticipate the spark command from the pcm. It can only detect it and then withold the trigger to the coil. In other words, it can travel backwards in time but not forward.

As for the hyfire manual, it is online and if you want me to I will send it to your email address.

camzaro28

hey i sent u a PM Glen.
yeah i read the manual last night and it doesnt go into enough for me. this is all i got from it:
mode 3- this is a selectable high-speed timing retard.
it is selected when the YELLOW wire coming out of the
end panel has 12 volts applied. the range is 1 to 15 degrees in .1 degree steps.

01Z

Hi. The timing retard setting takes effect when you connect +12 volts to the yellow wire as you know. The simplest way to to do this is to connect the yellow wire directly to your arming circuit. Doing it this way retards your timing immediately which you probably don't want. Here's what I did to only have the HS timing retard happen when the throttle is fully open and I have achieved the low rpm window switch limit. In other words, I have a relay that gets +12 volts from the arming switch circuit and is grounded from the violet wire that comes from the Hyfire. The Hyfire yellow wire then gets +12v when the low rpm window opens as it is attached to the relay. I think you understand well enough how a relay functions but if you are still confused I will try to explain in more detail. I can even talk to you over the phone if that would be of any help.

camzaro28

glen, i did not get around to the wire today that we had talked about. but a friend came over and we took the car out for a spin.
anyway i think i am getting closer to getting this system figured out, just need some input from someone that has had some experience.

i have 62/35 jets in the car. bottle pressure at 900. popped (backfire possibly, not sure) throughout the RPM's. just ran it through 2nd gear. turned the bottle heater on let it get up to 1050 and it only popped a few times.

so with that, does that possibly mean i need to lower the fuel?
i will hopefully be putting the car on the dyno this saturday for sure, but just wondering if i am going in the right direction?
thanks again

01Z

I'm only guessing so take it fwiw. The plugs could be fouling; knowing what a pita it is to read them but it looks like you have to do it. Expensive but the very best diagnostic is to get a wideband sensor. Innovate LM-1 with the LM-2 rpm converter is what I want for real time recording but AEM has a system for less and if you end up with datalog or equivalent you will be able to sort this out to where you know if you're are simply running rich or not. The plug reading is the cheap way to go for now. As you know, if you are lean with a 150 shot you're looking at a catastrophe. Please keep posting your results.

camzaro28

[IMG][/IMG]
this is from before i put the pump in 3 weeks ago.

now the plugs ( on the white part) are more brownish all the way around. the strap is grayer now. but where the metal at the end of the plug is still black at the tip.
i will try and get pics of the plugs up, but my camera is not cooperating with me at the moment.

01Z

Hi. I'm not a plug reader but I look for tiny flecks on the porcelain and electrodes. If they are clear then I'm not too worried. What I do see is the same thing on my own plugs; a black ring of soot on the bottom of the threads. I don't know if this is significant or not and really sort of expect this but basically our plugs look fairly even.