M6 and N2O.... Shifting question.
M6 and N2O.... Shifting question.
How do you make sure you dont spray through the shift?
I was jsut watching a vid I had made last week at the track, and if I get off the gas at all it isnt much, and I shift pretty fast. (have to make up for my ****ting launching skill somewhere)
So how would I make sure I dont spray through the shift? cut the N2O at a lower rpm then I shift is what I would think. but how would that effect getting back on it in the next gear?
I was jsut watching a vid I had made last week at the track, and if I get off the gas at all it isnt much, and I shift pretty fast. (have to make up for my ****ting launching skill somewhere)
So how would I make sure I dont spray through the shift? cut the N2O at a lower rpm then I shift is what I would think. but how would that effect getting back on it in the next gear?
Typically with a window switch. For example, set the top of the window and your shift light to 6000rpm. Getting back on the gas shouldn't be an issue, you'll come back to WOT in the next gear, maybe at 4500rpm, right inside the window.
Dave
Dave
what if I dont let off enough?
in the video the 2nd to 3rd didnt look like my right leg moved at all. so I'm afraid that I might be full on the gas the whole time.
That would be bad I think.
I was planning on sprayingfrom 3700 to 5800
but my redline was moved up to 6000
in the video the 2nd to 3rd didnt look like my right leg moved at all. so I'm afraid that I might be full on the gas the whole time.
That would be bad I think.
I was planning on sprayingfrom 3700 to 5800
but my redline was moved up to 6000
So if you set the top end of your window to 5800, then even if you're at WOT thru the whole shift, the nitrous will shut off at 5800. So rpm's go up, at 5800 the shift light goes on and the nitrous goes off (shift light not necessary, I'm just using it as an example), you push the clutch in, RPM's stay above 5800, you shift, you let the clutch out and RPM's drop down to 4500 or so. Nitrous kicks back in, and off you go.
Sound okay?
The non-powershift flavor says that instead of the rev's continuting up during the shift, they drop, but since the throttle isn't at WOT, your nitrous is off because of the WOT switch.
So I've assumed you have a WOT switch and a window switch.
Dave
Sound okay?
The non-powershift flavor says that instead of the rev's continuting up during the shift, they drop, but since the throttle isn't at WOT, your nitrous is off because of the WOT switch.
So I've assumed you have a WOT switch and a window switch.
Dave
Originally posted by LPEdave
So I've assumed you have a WOT switch and a window switch.
Dave
So I've assumed you have a WOT switch and a window switch.
Dave
I'll be running a dual stag 150 shot
75 on the window and 75 on a go button for when I get traction.
all on street tires. hope I dont break traction too easy.
i was debating the same issue and this is what i decided to do.
run your window switch lead through a switch on your clutch to insure your not spraying if the clutch isnt fully engaged....
then run it through a wot. switch.
that should insure no problems. curious, what clutch do you use taking that kind of abuse? hows it holding up?
run your window switch lead through a switch on your clutch to insure your not spraying if the clutch isnt fully engaged....
then run it through a wot. switch.
that should insure no problems. curious, what clutch do you use taking that kind of abuse? hows it holding up?
Originally posted by limige
i was debating the same issue and this is what i decided to do.
run your window switch lead through a switch on your clutch to insure your not spraying if the clutch isnt fully engaged....
then run it through a wot. switch.
that should insure no problems. curious, what clutch do you use taking that kind of abuse? hows it holding up?
i was debating the same issue and this is what i decided to do.
run your window switch lead through a switch on your clutch to insure your not spraying if the clutch isnt fully engaged....
then run it through a wot. switch.
that should insure no problems. curious, what clutch do you use taking that kind of abuse? hows it holding up?
holding up fine, car has 18k miles on it.
havent sprayed it yet.
but if it goes I'll just get a new one, my throw out bearing is going anyways.
holy crap!! your doing that on a stock clutch!!! is it gm or what?
my autozone clutches hardly lasted 4 months of street driving, and i don't powershift.
i blew a spring outta the first one and sheared the inside hub from the outside friction on the second!
going with a spec stage 4 or street twin next.
my autozone clutches hardly lasted 4 months of street driving, and i don't powershift.
i blew a spring outta the first one and sheared the inside hub from the outside friction on the second!
going with a spec stage 4 or street twin next.
Originally posted by limige
holy crap!! your doing that on a stock clutch!!! is it gm or what?
my autozone clutches hardly lasted 4 months of street driving, and i don't powershift.
i blew a spring outta the first one and sheared the inside hub from the outside friction on the second!
going with a spec stage 4 or street twin next.
holy crap!! your doing that on a stock clutch!!! is it gm or what?
my autozone clutches hardly lasted 4 months of street driving, and i don't powershift.
i blew a spring outta the first one and sheared the inside hub from the outside friction on the second!
going with a spec stage 4 or street twin next.
all have been shifted the same way, and from the vid it looks like I hardly let off the throtle at all.
if there is slip, I cant feel it.
wow, well i would say that gm makes a much better clutch than the autozone replacements!
don't temp fate though, expect to replace it with a race clutch soon, clutches can be extremely dangerous when they explode!
i think my switch setup should stop any problems with shifting and nitrous, if anyone knows a better way i'd like to hear it.
don't temp fate though, expect to replace it with a race clutch soon, clutches can be extremely dangerous when they explode!
i think my switch setup should stop any problems with shifting and nitrous, if anyone knows a better way i'd like to hear it.
Originally posted by limige
wow, well i would say that gm makes a much better clutch than the autozone replacements!
don't temp fate though, expect to replace it with a race clutch soon, clutches can be extremely dangerous when they explode!
i think my switch setup should stop any problems with shifting and nitrous, if anyone knows a better way i'd like to hear it.
wow, well i would say that gm makes a much better clutch than the autozone replacements!
don't temp fate though, expect to replace it with a race clutch soon, clutches can be extremely dangerous when they explode!
i think my switch setup should stop any problems with shifting and nitrous, if anyone knows a better way i'd like to hear it.
Originally posted by Jim_H
My stock GM clutch has 58k miles on it now. I have been spraying a 150 shot and I speed shift it while spraying. If you do not heat the clutch up, it will take alot of hard shifting.
My stock GM clutch has 58k miles on it now. I have been spraying a 150 shot and I speed shift it while spraying. If you do not heat the clutch up, it will take alot of hard shifting.
so pretty much let it cool between runs and try not to slip it too much.
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