If I was to spray a 150shot with my current mods in sig.. what do yall think I could run with a good launch? Also Ive done some searching on here, so ive learned a good bit. This is the kit im thinking about running but what extras do I need to make this kit right so I can have all the saftely switchs and stuff. I dont want to blow my motor or take the chance to tear stuff up, so I want it all done right. Its a really fresh motor and Im new with NO2 so all help appreciated.

http://www.speedshop.org/store/scrip...?idproduct=110

 

Fuel pressure safety switch, window switch, full throttle switch and some type of retard control for engine timing.

 

Anyone have any idea what times would be possible with this setup? Also just to make sure im right a window switch keeps the system from spraying when Im shifting the car, and the fuel pressure safety switch cuts the system off if the fuel pump fails right, but what does the full throttle switch do? Also can I run 93 octane gas with my setup and the juice? And what about purging tried searching but how does this exactly work and why do you do it? And with that kit I posted and safety switchs ill be running Ill have an acutal engage switch to turn the system on and Ill have a button to purge the system, but the system won't acutally spray intill im wide open throttle? How long will a 150shot last?

 

anyone?

 

I think your car should have no problem dipping into the 11's on 150 shot..... But a few things to clarify.....

A window switch will keep you from spraying at too low, or too high an RPM.... It will only let you spray in a certain "window" of rpms that are specified usually by plug in "pills." Low pill 3000, high pill 5800, and you will only spray between 3000, and 5800. It really doesn't limit your spray while you are shifting. The WOT switch will do this, since you will release the throttle while you are shifting...

The purpose of the WOT switch is a safety device to be sure you ONLY spray the nitrous at full throttle. This is mounted at a specific point so the throttle linkage hits it, closes the circuit, and activates the spray. A nitrous system should NEVER be activated at anything other than wide open throttle. If it is, then certain engine failure will result.

You are right that a fuel pressure safety switch de-activates the system if the fuel pump fails. It will cut ground to the nitrous system if the fuel pressure ever falls below the rated pressure of the fpss.

You should be fine running 93 octane with 150 shot, but detonation is the number one enemy. If you are planning on spraying a bunch at the track one night or something, mixing in a little unleaded race gas will definitely not hurt...

On 150 shot, with no bottle heater, you should get about 4 solid runs. After that you will have problems with stabilizing bottle pressure. On cold days you will have problems with keeping the bottle at the optimum pressure even when it's close to full. You would definitely benefit from a bottle heater.

You can check my website for more information, and for any kind of instructions you may need....

 

Ok..so 11's just with the juice right? What about with my motor setup that Im running and spraying what times would I be looking at? Where I live its pretty hot outside usually stays mid 80's low 90's during summer do you still think Ill need the heater? Do yall recommend having any guages with the system just incase one of the safety switchs fails? You said 3000-5800 rpms just wondering if thats good with where I shift and where my rev limiter is. I shift at 6500 and my rev limiter is at 6800 so just letting you know that. Also how does purging work? Ive read a little up on it but still unsure..

 

Times are different for every location....and every track so that would depend on where you live and so forth and traction.
Figure, If you can get good traction, a 150 shot will drop you at least 1 second in the quater and maybe more.....
I would for sure get a bottle heater, and a nitrous pressure guage.
As far as anything else, If you shifting at 6500 and your rev limiter is at 6800, set the window switch to turn off at 6400 or 6500, Few hundred RPM's before the Rev limiter to be on the safe side.
Purging is used to get any air out of the line before using nitrous for consistency. Also good for showing off......

 

So what all do I need toggle switchs for to turn on? Anyone want to give me a hand and go on that site I posted at the top and post the links to the parts extra I need that the kit doesn't come with so I know ill be ordering the right stuff. Like the purge system,window switch, fpss, full throttle switch, timing retard. Also when I get all these extra switchs does it usually come with solenoids or do I gotta buy all that extra? The kit says it come with two activation switchs but Im not gonna use those im going to order all my switchs like these labeled so I know what they are..

http://www.speedshop.org/store/scrip...p?idproduct=69

 

I use to have almost the exact same mods you have and I was pulling 11.90's all motor. I say with a 1.7 60 ft or so you could pull low low 11's on the squeeze. Bump to a 175 shot and maybe pull a high 10 . IMO

 

Dang really? Hmm might just have to do that. But can someone still give me a hand in finding these parts that I need that doesn't come with the actual kit so I can order everything at once..

 

I am running the TNT F2 kit from thunderracing.com and its working AWSOME

anymore questions feel free to pm me

 

Only toggle switchs ill need is to arm the system and purge? Ill open the bottle manually. All the safety switchs work on there self correct?

 

System arm toggle switch, and a push button for the purge......



I give you major props for asking all these questions, and making sure you have all the info you need to set up your nitrous system.......

 

Yea its not worth taking the chance to mess something up. Might as well do my homework and get it right the first time. So does all the safety switchs just tap into factory wires and run whenever you arm the system? You can't get like a toggle switch for purge just toggle it on and off for when you purge. I kinda want to get those switchs I posted above and keep them the same.

 

Yes a toggle switch will work... It basically does the same thing as a push button, it's just not momentary..... If you're going down the track, and accidentally flip the purge switch instead of the n2o switch it could cost you a race..... Also, if it accidentally gets flipped on while the bottle is closed, and you don't realize it's on, then it will burn up your purge solenoid. IMO a push button is the way to go on a purge.

Safety switches... The window switch should be wired so that if the rpm range isn't in range, it breaks the ground circuit from the system. Same with the fpss.. The system (relays) should ground through it.... If fuel pressure falls off, it loses ground, the spray stops......