ok so far i have the parts list... to do it the way i am, you will need the following:

4- 3/8" NPTx 3/8 barb
1- 3/8" NPT to 1/8" NPT bushing (for the gauge)
1- 3/8" NPT to 1/4" NPT bushing (to reduce it so you can use the 1/4 barb)
2- 1/2" NPT x 1/4" barb
1- Holley Blue electric pump part # 12-802-1
1- FPR SHOULD come in the box with the pump
1- fuel pressure gauge ( i used MR gasket # 1561 from Autozone)
1- fuel filter i used Autzone part # 3330 (has 3/8" outlet & inlet)
2- packs of worm clamps for 3/8" hose
1- pack of worm clamps for 1/4" hose
4- different colors of wire NO LESS than 14 ga. i used 12ga
1- pack of 12-14 ga. bolt ground terminals
1- pack of female connectors for the relay
1- 30 amp relay
2ft- 3/8" fuel line
5ft or so- 1/4" fuel line
1 tube of 5 minute Epoxy

now my issue on finding a part was when i had to get a 1/4" barb on the solenoid...homedepot didnt have any so i made a rigged up one with a 1/2" to 1/8" NPT adapter, 1/8" NPT female/female union, and a 1/2"x 1/4" barb... this CAN be done less than 200, and with parts from Autozone and homedepot

now you may ask what is the epoxy for, thats what all the people here use on the Nitrous kits. i haven't had not the slightest leak since i switched over and it eliminates the chance of getting Teflon tape stuck in the system. when you go to disassemble it just heat it up slightly and it comes right out. just an FYI...if you dont like to do so, then by all means substitute everywhere i use epoxy and use Teflon tape. i got held up looking for the parts, SO i am gonig to start doing this tomorrow and post pics up in an article type post thanks guysOK! so here goes!

BEFORE YOU GET STARTED!you need a GOOD ammount of different sockets, extensions and nut driver bits for a drill, drill bits,a drill and a few other things NOW go ahead and assemble the fittings into the pump and regulator, you need 2 of the 3/8" barbs for the pump, now for the regulator, on 3/8" barb, the 3/8 to 1/4 npt bushing, the 1/4 NPT 1/4" barb, and the 3/8" to 1/8" npt bushing, to assemble these you put epoxy on the first few threads then screw them in and tighten them up just like you would do with Teflon tape or paste. basically your doing the same thing as you would with any other fittings and teflon, but this way your 99.9% sure there wont be any leaks, if you do find a leak take the part off, empty all gas and heat it up with a lighter or torch and it will thread right back out, but im sure you wont have that problem

step 1: remove the front bumper,and bumper support bar, there are quite a few plastic expanding clips and 4 hidden bolts (4 7mm bolts right under the headlights one under each) the rest you should be able to see and remove with ease. (yes the bottom beauty covers have to be removed)it helps to have a friend remove the bumper with you, but i removed and re installed mine pretty easy. (now would also be a good time to delete the bumper bar for weight savings) when your done it should look like this:


Step 2: gather all your parts, this is all i have listed in the above post (vacuum fitting isnt there yet nor the vacuum tubing):


Step 3: MOUNT THE PUMP! i chose to place mine where the frame rail is, right in front of my cold air intake filter. i drilled a 1/8" pilot hole on both sides of the bracket and use 2 3/8" head sheet metal bolts and they do their job
HERE HERE and

step 4: MOUNT THE REGULATOR! i affixed mine to the radiator support via 2 self tapping sheet metal 8mm head screws HERE where the gauge could face up to ease setting fuel pressure. you MAY or may not be able to mount yours right here due to the variance of the CAI kits for our cars. mine was a little closer to the intake than i wanted so i marked the spot, heated it up and used a 3/8" extension to put a small bend in it to clear the hose (i rolled the plastic out like rolling bread out, so it didnt just leave a small mark in it)
HERE
HERE
and HERE

step 5:connect the pump to the regulator. i used my 3/8" fuel line here, 2 worm clamps and about 1.5ft of line. clamp it down and rock out!

Step 6: remove the washer Resivor. there will be 4 push clips in the resivor, an electrical connector to the pump and a nose for the fluid. disconnect these and tie them up out of the way. NOW grab a torch and the last 3/8 barb (like used in the pump), remove the pump from the resivor and all fluid still in it, pull the rubber bushing out also. now the fun part, turn the torch on and light it up,on LOW, heat the small hole up where the pump mounted just enough thats its mailable, use your 3/8" threaded barb and while the plastic is soft, push the fitting into the hole softly and thread it in 1/2 way just like you would do in any other material. now dont waste any time, thread the barb BACK out and let the plastic cool for about 5 minutes. when its cool to the touch, mix up a some more 5 min. epoxy, put a good amount on the fitting and thread it in a little ways, let it sit for about 30 seconds (to let the epoxy cure so its not so thin). after a few seconds have gone by, thread it the rest of the way in, then mix some more epoxy and put a good amount on top where the fitting was just threaded in. MAKE SURE ALL SURFACES YOU PUT EXOXY ARE CLEAN! it SHOULD look like this HERE
HERE

Step 7:connect the pump to the resivor (from now on refered to as the tank) use about 2 ft or so 3/8" line and 2 worm clamps DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE CLAMPS! DOING SO WILL DAMAGE THE LINE AND CAUSE LEAKS LATER ON DOWN THE LINE! anywhere the hoses hit a metal edge that was sharp or could cause wear, i sliced a vacuum hose (11/32" i think) down the middle and put a few dabs of epoxy on the inside to aid in holding it on the metal like THIS
HERE
HERE

step 8:run the lines to the solenoid from the regulator, i cut a 2" slit in the factory fuel line convoluted tubing and ran it through where it passes right over the ABS box and out to the motor, i used about 3.5ft to accomplish this and used 2 smaller clamps on each fittingHERE HERE HERE and HERE

now for the wiring use THIS diagram use a MINIMUM of 14 ga. wire, although i recommend 12 ga. and the corresponding butt connectors, and bolt grounds. heat shrink all connections or electrical tape but i recommend heat shrink and weather tight butt connectors all available to you through advanced, auto zone or napa
...bolt everything up and set your fuel pressure!

Step 9: setting fuel pressure. to do so get a few feet of 1/4" line, disconnect the line from the solenoid, put it into the fill side of the tank, loosen up the lock nut on the regulator that locks the hex keyed screw tight, use the hex wrench that fits to turn the screw. now switch the kit on and watch the gauge and set to desired pressure (the kit you use will have a recommended fuel pressure that corresponds to your jetting KEEP IN MIND IF YOU HAVE AN EFI KIT YOU WILL NEED TO BUY JETS TO USE LOWER FUEL PRESSURE!!!! jets are not expensive and if you try to use the EFI fuel side jet you will be really lean and this CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO YOUR MOTOR!!!

now bolt everything up, jet everything accordingly (speak to your kit supplier for jet settings) and go have some fun, the beauty of this is that you can put 116 or 110 in the stand alone tank so when you spray the car you will be less likely to detonate and wont have to run the risk of running the rails dry, leaning out your motor an having a backfire! im sure i missed something so i will update as i find missing stuff. keep the tank full and you wont have a problem with fuel pickup,

 

added bonus:i decided to make a vent tube setup...all i did was buy 3 ft of vacuum line and a 90 deg fitting, drilled 2 holes and epoxied it in the top and blocked off the vent hole in the tank cap to prevent fuel overflow under the hood. so i ran the vent tube out to the bottom under the nose HERE HERE and HERE

 

uhh,gasoline in the washer tank....not to mention in the front of the vehicle,not such a hot idea.

a MUCH easier/cleaner/cheaper way,is to get a 1 gallon fuel cell,bolt it in the well,purchase a MSD efi fuel pump{80bucks} and run A/N line up to the front where your noids are,wire in the fuel pump to your NITROUS activation switch,and your good to go.

 

where the hell would you put a 1 gallon fuel cell? i know i DEF! wouldnt put one in the pass compartment without a bulkhead... people have been doing this for Meth injection for years homie, and same goes for if you get rear ended....where is your tank? if you have a bumper bar your good, if not it is sketchy like mine

 

not to mention this for budget people, its working good for me so far. and is a better method than running off the rails. if you drive carefully then you dont have to worry, but if you fly down the highway at 150 on to the back of people thne WATCH IT explode...

 

BTW try it your way and i BET you break $300. my way 180

 

lol ive done it several times,all without incident,and WITHOUT spending 300 bucks,and it also saves from having to buy different jets.

and FYI,its not I who i worry about when im driving,its OTHER idiots on the road...and id rather not have a PLASTIC container full of race fuel directly behind my bumper,id much rather have a sanctioned fuel cell in the trunk.

 

your telling me a $100 gallon cell, $80 pump, $150 high press regulator, $59 worth of braid hose all clamps and fittings under $200? let me know how you did this and make a write up for us, i would like to know. i was gonig to use a cell but didnt want one in the compartment with me and didnt have a place to mount it under the hood.

 

well,the cell runs like 70 from bigend products{jaz makes em}the pump is around 75/80 bucks,and the lines from bigend run about 30 bucks depending on the size. ive yet to use a regulator on this style system,and it performs flawlessly,later on in the week when im at the shop ill take some pics.


its as easy as putting some 110 in the cell and closing the hatch,i mount them in the cell,with the outlet facing the rear,mounted to the "wall" of the center well.

 

damn all that and i was just goping to run a second walbo255 intank and run braided fuel line to the front, and rig the power to the 2nd pump to my activation switch so that as soon as the nitrous is active so is the pump

 

screw dropping the tank...and worrying about bottoming out on a line if it comes loose lol

 

I did this to my car and it works PERFECT!!! I still need to add a vent tube eventually but I did it all and have had 110 in the tank for about 2 weeks now. No problems whatsoever. I am going to start spraying tomorrow.

 

did you do it by my write up?

 

Sure did. I got it off ls1tech. The only thing that I didn't use from yours was the wiring diagram. But I'm pretty good with electrical stuff and made my own! LOL