Will a 5176 dry kit still function normally under a boost condition with a supercharger? It's the flow of nitrous through the nitrous regulator that kicks up the fuel pressure on your fuel pressure regulator, correct? Curious cause I know you tee into your manifold vac, but I think the manifold vac is for your FP regulator under normal non-nitrous conditions. Am I right? Curious cause I just put a charger on and already have the 5176 kit in the car and was thinking about spraying a 50 shot throught it. I'm tuned through the pcm for my fuel mixture on the charger (no FMU) and would like to know if the 5176 kit will work like normal and up the fuel pressure when spraying to give me the extra fuel if I spray too. Should be an interesting ride if it works. Thanks.

Ken R. 95Z

 

Don't know if this helps. My setup works fine. I have a Powerdyne with a dry 75 shot. I do not know the part no. but I have the NOS 58mm TB that the nitrous line hooks up to. I just had it dyno tuned so I know it is safe. It was also safe before the tune. I had them check it.

 

OVR, which jets are you using in your dry kit for the 75 shot (nitrous like and in the tee)? I'd like to spray a 50 shot or even a little smaller to start. I'm pushing just a tad over 5psi with my S-trim. Also, if you have a fuel pressure gauge in the car or readable when you spray it, does the FP jump when you hit the nitrous? If it does, then the dry kit is working like normal assuming it's an LT1 dry kit with a changable jet for your fuel pressure regulator. Thanks for your info also. How much of a difference do you see when you spray and do you spray it in the boost, or the whole time even building up to boost? Thanks again.

Ken R.

 

Ken... I am using a #42 for my 75 shot in the line. I am not sure about the tee. I bought the car with it hooked up and just had it dyno tuned. The way it is hooked up now the tee does nothing. The tune takes care of pressure. I do not have a F/P gauge so I can not tell if it jumps up. I had my FMU removed and 42# injectors installed at time of the tune. My air/fuel ratio stays dead even through the spray so I know everything is working.
As far as a difference I saw @ the track ... my time went from 12.5 to 11.6 with just the 75 shot. I hit the spray mid through 1st gear, not really looking at boost. OH also on the dyno a 75 dry shot gave me about 50hp at the wheels. I run a Powerdyne and mine generates a lot of intake temp so the N2O acts like an intercooler. Not sure how much you could expect but from what I have heard you WILL feel a 75 shot and it should be more than safe. BTW I sprayed mine before I had it tuned. Those times I gave you were w/ stock tune and injectors.
Hope this helps and sorry if I went on & on.

 

Thanks for the info. I actually just went to the dyno today and sprayed on the charger. I'm running a 34 nitrous jet and a 67 in the tee which should make it pig rich. I figured that at about 40hp shot and it did kick up my FP when it sprayed. I have my SC A/F tuned through the program. No FMU. I tune myself with TunerCat by the way. Anyway, I have the charger tune running between 12 and 11.5:1 A/F. Thats where it made the most power. On the spray though, it goes pig rich. It kicks in at about 14:1 then immediatly drops all the way down to 10:1 towards the end of the run. If I up the tee jet to lean it out a bit, it will raise that whole curve and i'll then be worried about the A/F when the nitrous first kicks in. Don't want it to go higher then the 14:1 it already hits when it's first engaged. That makes me think of your tune. If you tuned your A/F to run where it's running on the nitrous strictly in the program, then when your not spraying, that thing will be running really rich. The tune won't change fuel pressure. Whats your A/F on boost alone vs when you spray? I ended up making 390hp/357fptq on the charger alone (5psi of boost with a 6psi pulley on an S-trim) and 434hp/461fptq with the small shot of spray. Thats uncorrected at my altitude which is 5200ft. The SAE corrected numbers are 471hp/431fptq and 524hp/556fptq. You might want to try running that dry kit with the tee jet so it ups your fuel pressure when it kicks in, then you should be able to lean out your tune for the supercharger alone and it will probably make more power when your not spraying. Curious to know your dyno A/F numbers.

Ken R.

 

What you said about mine makes sense. I am not very good at all when it comes to tuning. I had a local shop do it. I am not sure why he tuned it with the tee the way it is but he said not to mess with it because it will mess up the A/F ratio. Maybe that is why I am still failing the emissions test badly. Well heres the #'s 363.8hp... 410hp w/75 shot. A/F is @12.1-12.3 on motor and varies from 10.3 to 11.4 on the spray if I am reading this dyno sheet right.
I think I might start a new thread to try to get more info on this. I know Powerdynes aren't that great but 363hp.... that is terrible even @ only 3psi boost. The shop just blamed it on the S/C. They said there was really no way to get any more power out of it.

 

I'm sure you can get more power out of it both ways. Although 3psi isn't the best, I think it can run better on the charger and on the spray. A/F's seem legit. I know just on the charger, mine liked it more in the 11.5:1 range vs 12.5 where I started. Actually made 10hp more and about 8tq just by making it richer. I wouldn't have guessed that. Did you say you still have the tee in that nitrous set up? If you do then what you can do is check and see which jet is in it. So the tee set up should be the bottom of the tee going to your manifold (manifold vac), one side going to the blue nitrous regulator between your nos solinoids, and the other side of the tee going to your fuel pressure regulator. See which jet you have in there and that can tell a lot.

Ken R.

 

Thanks Ken. I'll go check it out and let you know. How did you determine how you were getting the most power? Were you tuning it on a dyno?

 

Yeah, I was tuning on the dyno and using it's wideband. I was already close on the A/F going in based off my O2 readings when I scanned it on the street. I went in at about 12.5 to 13:1 A/F. It made the most power in the 11.5:1 range under boost. Got that after one tune. Then there were a couple of rich dips that I was able to smooth out on a second tune tweek. Then I sprayed it. I wen't in with a jet combo that I was guessing was about a 40hp shot cause I wanted to keep it conservitive and I kept the tee jet small on purpose so it would run rich, and it did. I didn't do any jet changes to change my A/F when spraying even though it's running really rich. I sprayed with my bottle pressure at 900. So I know if I run it at the track and spray it at about 1000 to 1050, it will lean it up a bit, or I can go up one size on the Nitrous jet and leave the tee the same and that will lean it up a bit also because of a slightly bigger shot. I'd rather keep it safe for now since i'm running on stock pistons. As for your tune, another thing you might find out is where exactly they made changed in your program to tune your A/F (what tables). Cause my A/F changes only affect it at WOT. Just crusing around out of the boost, it runs at the normal 14:1 range. So if yours isn't running like that, that could explain your bad emissions test results also. Also, have you considered upping to the 6psi pulley for your powerdyne?

Ken

 

Ya I was thimking of changing the pulley but my tuner said more boost will create more heat so it would do no good. Air intake temp was already @ 230. I don't know what to do. Thinking of just selling the whole car. It seems to run good and is a safe setup, just not what I was after.

 

So that 230 deg temp, is that something the tuner passed on to you, or have you seen if for yourself. Just curious, cause I was only hitting around 150 deg F on the dyno at the top end and thats with 5psi of non-intercooled boost. Then with the spray, it dropped to around 100 deg F. Just kinda weird how that thing would push those kind of temps unless your under boost for a long period. Curious what others here see for intake temps under boost.

Ken

 

That is what the tuner told me. I am really starting to doubt the work or lack there of that he did. His whole point that he wouldn't stop saying is that Powerdynes are junk... very inefficient and produce a lot of heat. He wanted me to just remove it completely. Said it isn't doing any good anyway.Maybe he was right. My #'s are low but The real test will be when the track opens.
I would really like to get more input from other Powerdyne owners too!!!!!
BTW sorry I stole your thread

 

Don't worry about steeling the thread. You gave me the dry kit info I was looking for anyway. To be honest, for only 3psi of boost, I don't think your numbers are that far off at all with your set up. Granted, I am at 5200ft in altitude, so i'll be down compared to you a bit, but I started in the 360 range on the charger with 5psi. After making a few changes, I got it up in the 380's and my engine set up is very close to yours. Heads, cam, ect. Your losing a bit at the rear wheels compared to my set up due to driveline loss of your auto vs my 6spd, but all in all, your in the ballpark of where you probably should be without the spray. And based off what you've already said, I think you could probably squeeze a bit more out of it with some more tuning. Maybe also in the 370 to 380 range. Are you using a boost timing retard or did the tuner cut timing out of your tune? Seems like some of the tuning may be questionable. What I would suggest if you have a laptop or a friend with a laptop is pick up an interface cable to connect your car to a laptop. AKM cables (do a search on the board) sells cables for our cars either pre-made or build yourself. Go pre-made if your not that capable with electronics and soldering. Download some free software like "Freescan" and load it on the laptop. I use Freescan myself and scan my runs on the dyno, at the track, cruising on the street ect. Thats where I get all my data to tune myself. Even if your not tuning yourself, It still gives you a lot of info so you know exactlly what your car is REALLY doing. Anything from O2 readings (which will give you a ballpark of where your A/F is), total timing, knock readings, intake temps, battery voltage ect. Almost overwhelming info. But with that, you can tell if your tuner was giving you the real info or not. And you can save and email those scans for other people to look at and make heads or tales of it. If you want, I can email you one of my Freescan files and you can see how much data you get. All you need is Excel on your pc to view it cause its an Excel file. Let me know. Don't give up hope too quick. Your not doing too bad.

Ken