desertmonkey

For three years my 90 IROC Z has been in repose in Arizona and now I have come to revive her. She cranks but won't start and the fuel pump is silent. I have switched relays but still no juice to the pump. I recently cut a hole in the floor pan above the tank and now I can see the sender assembly. Because of the tubes I cannot remove the assembly nor do I know how to get the electrical connector off. I want to just replace the pump and sock and hear her fire up because if I shoot some starting fluid into the throttlebody she spits out a flame and sputters. My next adventure is the oil cooler tubes beneath and seals and a heater core. I also will need a 6 way seat track since one ear broke off my original. Next the B&M trans gets drain and fill and the cooling system. If she block checks good then the valve stem seal and VC gaskets and intake gasket. Last the cooling fans and AC and some fresh paint. So can i saw the lines from the sender to pull it out and than use braided fuel hose and clamps?

'91 1LE

I would not cut the fuel lines. If you cut the access hole big enough the pump should lift out into the rear shelf area once you remove the lock ring. There is slack in the lines to allow dropping of the tank with them attached. On TPI cars there is a fuel pump test circuit that has an direct link to the fuel pump. Supply it with 12 volts to see if its the pump or the wiring. It is located on the passenger side top of the firewall and looks like a 3" wire sticking out of the factory wire loom. The fuel pump wiring connector is "locked" together with a blue(?) safety latch. Remove this first and you should be able to disconnect it.

desertmonkey

I found a template on a earlier post on 3rd gen and it had diemensions and photos of the hole wich is in the center of the huimp behind the rear seat. On the site was a pic of the lines joined together with hose and clamps. I tried to remove the sender but gave up because I could not get the wire harness loose. I was going to jump from a spare battery to the connector and see if it functions. I will look for the wire on the right near the firewall is it near the AC accumulator or evaporator? Someone said it was near the battery and the lights some kind of fuse. Are there any links to on line shop manuals?

'91 1LE

The wire is black and it comes out of the factory loom with the blower motor wiring. It has a black connector on the end with nothing attached to it. Where in Phoenix are you? I live in the West Valley by Luke and I have a factory service manual. Any luck with the fuel pump commector?

desertmonkey

I am in Bullhead City because the car is in Fort Mohave and I already cut out the floor but now I am considering a external Holley pump. I just need a photo of the engine bay to get an idea where this connector is. Like I said if I shoot starting fluid into the throttle body she ignites. My e mail is gvictor1946@yahoo.com and if time permits I will reattach the relays on the firewall and try the connector. I wanted to pull off the harness connector and jump it across a battery to see what happens. I tried to saw the lines with a small straight fine blade modelers saw but it just skipped over and did not go through. I will reinstall the sender assembly and gasket for the cover and try to pull the connector after I smooth off the edges of the cutout. Since you have a manual maybe you can tell me if I get new oil cooler tubes are there seals inside the ends? If I do go external I can go right off the filter lines and not need as much tubing.

desertmonkey

Okay I won't saw the lines but since the car is resting on loose rocks I must find a way to move to solid ground inside the garage. If I can get the back end components down far enough than I can get the pump out properly. Next I need to know if I have seals where the oil cooler tubes connect. Anyone out there has any link to a shop manual on line?

desertmonkey

How difficult is it to mount an external Holley pump say coming off the filter?