Morgan Motorsports?
Morgan Motorsports?
Can anyone tell me anything about these guys? I'd love to hear anything anyone has heard or knows for fact.
I'm supposed to get a car from them...but there website isn't exactly informative...so I want to see if I can find anything out about them before I drive 30 hours out there.
Thanks,
Wes
I'm supposed to get a car from them...but there website isn't exactly informative...so I want to see if I can find anything out about them before I drive 30 hours out there.
Thanks,
Wes
How driveable is your car?
I am looking at a car VERY similar I think.
Engine 383cu in., Callies Forged I Beam Rods - 5.85, Ross Custom Thermal Barrier Coating, Poly Moly Coating, Comp Cams solid roller cam and roller rockers, Comp Cams high tech push rods and springs, Hooker super comp full length headers, 4" Muffles Exhaust, Vortech V7 YS trim blower - 121 lbs boost, Mass Flow by-pass valve, after cooler, 1000hp Morgan Motor Sport fuel system, Accell 72lb injectors, K&N 4" Inlet, MSD Digital 7A MSD Pro Power coil, MSD Boost retard, MSD Super Conductor plug wires, Accel DFI computer, BBK 58 MM throttle body, Meziere electric water pump, 7' crank pulley, 3.33' blower pulley, Morgan Motor Sport ported AFR 220 heads with stainless valves.
Transmission - 6 speed T-56m Spec kevlar clutch package, 5.0 billet shifter, aluminum drive shaft.
Suspension - Front Hal adjustable drag shocks, drag springs, rear currie 3.50 31 Spline Performance axles, Koni adjustable shocks, Air lifts, sub-frame connectors, drag springs, Hotchhia Boxed control arms, adjustable control arm brackets, pan hard bar, Spahn custom fabricated solid torque arm.
Wheels - American torque trust II's 8"x10" tires Sumittomes 315-35-17 235-45-17 / MT ET Streets 26-11.50-16.
Interior - Roll bar, Simpson cam lock race belts, shift light, boost gauge, grey leather
Exterior - original white paint
Horse Power - Morgan Motor Sport Dyno, 752 Wheel hp, 885 flywheel (estimate)
I am really looking to get this car, but...I want something that is driveable. Not like a daily beater, but if I want to go cruise around or take it on a 100 mile trip or something...I want to be able to.
What do you think? I am TOLD that the car is very driveable.
Do you have any pictures of your car? Maybe a video? Or anything else you can tell me?
The car is in California...I'm in Missouri. I'm looking at a 30 hour drive one way to get the car...I want to make sure its everything I want.
Thanks for your time and help.
Its appreciated VERY much.
Wes Buck
I am looking at a car VERY similar I think.
Engine 383cu in., Callies Forged I Beam Rods - 5.85, Ross Custom Thermal Barrier Coating, Poly Moly Coating, Comp Cams solid roller cam and roller rockers, Comp Cams high tech push rods and springs, Hooker super comp full length headers, 4" Muffles Exhaust, Vortech V7 YS trim blower - 121 lbs boost, Mass Flow by-pass valve, after cooler, 1000hp Morgan Motor Sport fuel system, Accell 72lb injectors, K&N 4" Inlet, MSD Digital 7A MSD Pro Power coil, MSD Boost retard, MSD Super Conductor plug wires, Accel DFI computer, BBK 58 MM throttle body, Meziere electric water pump, 7' crank pulley, 3.33' blower pulley, Morgan Motor Sport ported AFR 220 heads with stainless valves.
Transmission - 6 speed T-56m Spec kevlar clutch package, 5.0 billet shifter, aluminum drive shaft.
Suspension - Front Hal adjustable drag shocks, drag springs, rear currie 3.50 31 Spline Performance axles, Koni adjustable shocks, Air lifts, sub-frame connectors, drag springs, Hotchhia Boxed control arms, adjustable control arm brackets, pan hard bar, Spahn custom fabricated solid torque arm.
Wheels - American torque trust II's 8"x10" tires Sumittomes 315-35-17 235-45-17 / MT ET Streets 26-11.50-16.
Interior - Roll bar, Simpson cam lock race belts, shift light, boost gauge, grey leather
Exterior - original white paint
Horse Power - Morgan Motor Sport Dyno, 752 Wheel hp, 885 flywheel (estimate)
I am really looking to get this car, but...I want something that is driveable. Not like a daily beater, but if I want to go cruise around or take it on a 100 mile trip or something...I want to be able to.
What do you think? I am TOLD that the car is very driveable.
Do you have any pictures of your car? Maybe a video? Or anything else you can tell me?
The car is in California...I'm in Missouri. I'm looking at a 30 hour drive one way to get the car...I want to make sure its everything I want.
Thanks for your time and help.
Its appreciated VERY much.
Wes Buck
yes, I know the car..its verry nice, and yes it is streetable, the guy who had it drove it all over...so i would say yes it is verry streetable....i have some pics of my car on my websight
www.poltergeist.us/robss/
www.poltergeist.us/robss/
So you know the car? Sweet. It looks really nice from the pictures and stuff. I definately want the car now.
I just wanted to hear something like that...
Thanks, I appreciate it.
Have you ever seen his car run? I am told it sounds pretty unreal.
I just wanted to hear something like that...Thanks, I appreciate it.
Have you ever seen his car run? I am told it sounds pretty unreal.
Like most 4th gen shops, MMS is more of an LS1 tuner these days. You'll get alot more feedback on the LS1 boards:
www.LS1Tech.com
www.LS1.com (Western Forum)
www.LS1Tech.com
www.LS1.com (Western Forum)
Last edited by Jim S. '95 Z28; Feb 9, 2003 at 11:18 PM.
One of our club members has had his head/cam work done by MMS. His motor is currently for sale, as he is moving to "bigger" things.

Check out our site, www.lvfbody.com his s/n is Snakecharmer.

Check out our site, www.lvfbody.com his s/n is Snakecharmer.
I've never dealt with them BUT i know several people that have.... and they have NOTHING good to say about them. ALL BAD NEWS!!! Lets just say taht you WON'T get your money's worth there. And that's not including the lawsuits that's been rumored... MMS using cheap valvesprings on LS1's and ten dropping a valve... Wouldn't wish them on my worst enemy.... BUYER BEWARE!!!!!!!
Well,
Now that we're on this subject:
I ran an MMS 383 for 32K miles.
Just tore it down last weekend. Looked OK, but on one of the pistons, the skirts were scuffed up pretty good. Probably at least 1/16th of an inch in certain areas. That on a moderate RPM, strictly n/a motor (no N20).
Either:
1) The block was machined poorly
or
2) One of the pistons was out of spec (too big) and they didn't bother to mic them out.
Nine times out of ten, you can get away with calling up whathever machine shop your contracted through and telling them to bore out a block .030" over. However, every now and then, it comes back to bite you (or your customer) in the ***. For these rare instances, any shop worth anything should either check such tolerances, or find another machinist!
BTW, if I'm not mistaken, the car you're interested in ran in the same issue (same article, in fact) of Car Craft as mine. But that really doesn't reflect workmanship at all. All some press really means is that MMS is a convenient contact for story ideas for some of the local magazines.
Again, check the LS1 boards. Lots of opinionated folks on this subject there. The "Western Forum" of LS1.com may be particularly helpful.
As a wise man once said, the best shop is your own garage
Oh well, live and learn
Now that we're on this subject:
I ran an MMS 383 for 32K miles.
Just tore it down last weekend. Looked OK, but on one of the pistons, the skirts were scuffed up pretty good. Probably at least 1/16th of an inch in certain areas. That on a moderate RPM, strictly n/a motor (no N20).
Either:
1) The block was machined poorly
or
2) One of the pistons was out of spec (too big) and they didn't bother to mic them out.
Nine times out of ten, you can get away with calling up whathever machine shop your contracted through and telling them to bore out a block .030" over. However, every now and then, it comes back to bite you (or your customer) in the ***. For these rare instances, any shop worth anything should either check such tolerances, or find another machinist!
BTW, if I'm not mistaken, the car you're interested in ran in the same issue (same article, in fact) of Car Craft as mine. But that really doesn't reflect workmanship at all. All some press really means is that MMS is a convenient contact for story ideas for some of the local magazines.
Again, check the LS1 boards. Lots of opinionated folks on this subject there. The "Western Forum" of LS1.com may be particularly helpful.
As a wise man once said, the best shop is your own garage
Oh well, live and learn
Last edited by Jim S. '95 Z28; Feb 11, 2003 at 02:04 PM.
Originally posted by juicey
Wow. I hadn't heard that either.
Well ****...what to do now!
Anyone got anything for sale that makes 750+rwhp?
Wow. I hadn't heard that either.
Well ****...what to do now!
Anyone got anything for sale that makes 750+rwhp?
I am looking for a car of this caliber that is driveable. I want a true street car.
To be competitive around here you need a solid low 10 second or 9 second car. A lot of the guys do it, but they do it on 10.5 slicks or big tire cars.
I want a car that does what the big tire cars do with all the creature comforts of a factory performance car. Power options, etc...
Would it be at all possible for you to tell me what month and article your car was in?
Just curious.
I really like the basic concept of this white car. 752rwhp and power options, leather, 6-speed, air conditioning.
I've always been one of those "purpose built" guys that do away with anything that doesn't aid in going fast...but anymore...I just want a bad *** ride that has style, comfort and power. I have a 1987 Chevy S10 right now with an aluminum headed 406ci sbc, hydraulic roller motor, etc... It went 10.90s through the exhaust, stock stall, drag radials, bench seat, column shifter. Which is also FOR SALE.
I would really appreciate any more help on the shop, or finding a car.
I run an automotive repair shop, and have always built stuff myself...but anymore I have found that its cheaper to just buy stuff thats already done, or real close to and change it around a little to personalize it. Especially with performance cars or drag cars. I guess I'm just getting tired.
I am looking to sell my current race car if anyone knows of any Corvettes, Camaros or Firebirds for sale. I'd like an MTI 422ci Corvette.

Turn key - $65,000
To be competitive around here you need a solid low 10 second or 9 second car. A lot of the guys do it, but they do it on 10.5 slicks or big tire cars.
I want a car that does what the big tire cars do with all the creature comforts of a factory performance car. Power options, etc...
Would it be at all possible for you to tell me what month and article your car was in?
Just curious.
I really like the basic concept of this white car. 752rwhp and power options, leather, 6-speed, air conditioning.
I've always been one of those "purpose built" guys that do away with anything that doesn't aid in going fast...but anymore...I just want a bad *** ride that has style, comfort and power. I have a 1987 Chevy S10 right now with an aluminum headed 406ci sbc, hydraulic roller motor, etc... It went 10.90s through the exhaust, stock stall, drag radials, bench seat, column shifter. Which is also FOR SALE.
I would really appreciate any more help on the shop, or finding a car.
I run an automotive repair shop, and have always built stuff myself...but anymore I have found that its cheaper to just buy stuff thats already done, or real close to and change it around a little to personalize it. Especially with performance cars or drag cars. I guess I'm just getting tired.
I am looking to sell my current race car if anyone knows of any Corvettes, Camaros or Firebirds for sale. I'd like an MTI 422ci Corvette.
Turn key - $65,000
Last edited by juicey; Feb 11, 2003 at 07:01 PM.


