PLEASE HELP! Broke a bolt off in the end of my crank!
06-09-2007, 06:57 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Livonia, Mi
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PLEASE HELP! Broke a bolt off in the end of my crank!
I was putting an underdrive pulley on my crank today, and I was using a long bolt to pull it on. The pulley started going on, and I was putting some serious pressure on this thing, trying to get it to seat. Then all of a sudden the long bolt snapped down by the threated area... and I'm ****ed. Can anyone get this bolt out or tell me how? The sooner its out the better, I will happily pay someone to come over and do this. The engine is out of the car, which may or may not make it easier.
Last edited by Mike94ZLT1; 06-09-2007 at 10:00 PM.
06-09-2007, 07:20 PM
#2
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Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Haslett, Michigan
Posts: 2,161
Oh boy. That's a grade 8 bolt you got there. It's not like you can drill into the bolt and use an EZ-out.
Can you touch the snapped surface with your index finger? Something that I've done successfully now twice, (not on crankshafts, BY THE WAY) is to use a MIG welder to zap the busted fastener and stick some metal onto the bolt. You have to be SUPER careful not to accidently hit the crankshaft with the MIG or its all over but the cryin'. You might be able to painstakenly build the fastener with the MIG, laying small layer after layer of steel, then once the built-up tower of hardened steel is up overtop the crank nose, weld a bolt onto the steel tower. Let it cool, then spray it with PB blaster or penetrating oil and tap it with a hammer. If the threads aren't buggered up, the combination of heat, oil, and light impactl should un-stick the bolt and allow you to unscrew the carcass.
I've only done it on a set of Honda Goldwing forks with stuck fasteners, but it worked like a charm in that particular case.
Can you touch the snapped surface with your index finger? Something that I've done successfully now twice, (not on crankshafts, BY THE WAY) is to use a MIG welder to zap the busted fastener and stick some metal onto the bolt. You have to be SUPER careful not to accidently hit the crankshaft with the MIG or its all over but the cryin'. You might be able to painstakenly build the fastener with the MIG, laying small layer after layer of steel, then once the built-up tower of hardened steel is up overtop the crank nose, weld a bolt onto the steel tower. Let it cool, then spray it with PB blaster or penetrating oil and tap it with a hammer. If the threads aren't buggered up, the combination of heat, oil, and light impactl should un-stick the bolt and allow you to unscrew the carcass.
I've only done it on a set of Honda Goldwing forks with stuck fasteners, but it worked like a charm in that particular case.
06-09-2007, 07:23 PM
#3
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: South Lyon, Mi.
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You can still use a EZ out on a grade 8 bolt. you just drill a hole in the broken bolt for the size of the tool and when you insert the tool which is like a drill bit it will grab the inside of the bolt and you can turn it out with it. You can get these at most hardware stores for a few bucks. Other option is to drill out the whole bolt and try and helicoil the crank but I suggest that as the absolute last choice.
Never use a bolt again, a threaded rod works or the proper tool and I usually use antiseeze on the thread ends to help it turn without binding the threads.
After you get the bolt out it's time to buy a ARP crank bolt.
Never use a bolt again, a threaded rod works or the proper tool and I usually use antiseeze on the thread ends to help it turn without binding the threads.
After you get the bolt out it's time to buy a ARP crank bolt.
06-09-2007, 07:35 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: waterford, MI - USA
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ok, here's my suggestion. two ways. either, a modified version of dans suggestion, which is, hold a nut centered over the broken bolt, one where the hole in the center of the nut is not larger then the broken bolt in teh crank. use vise grips to hold the nut in place. then take a mig welder to the center of the nut like your welding a rosebud weld. the weld will basically make the nut part of the broken bolt and you just use a socket to turn it out.
but, do you think the bolt bottomed out in the crank, and thats why it broke? possibly? if so that'll make it VERY hard to get out with an easyout.
but fear not, there is yet a 3rd way here. and thisis what I would try first IF the bolt did NOT break due to being bottomed out. just get a reverse drill bit thats roughly half the size of the broken bolt. so maybe like a 3/8" reverse drill bit. it'll drill like a little in, then when the end of the drill bit is starting to tunnel into the bolt, it will grab the bolt and just turn it out. Ive dont that several times and it works great. even on my old 96 LT1 cyl. head mannifold bolts that were broken off due to age. they just turned right now.
if that bolt is bottomed out, then Id do the welding nut way.
good luck mike. Id be over there in a heartbeat if I lived closer to you buddy.
but, do you think the bolt bottomed out in the crank, and thats why it broke? possibly? if so that'll make it VERY hard to get out with an easyout.
but fear not, there is yet a 3rd way here. and thisis what I would try first IF the bolt did NOT break due to being bottomed out. just get a reverse drill bit thats roughly half the size of the broken bolt. so maybe like a 3/8" reverse drill bit. it'll drill like a little in, then when the end of the drill bit is starting to tunnel into the bolt, it will grab the bolt and just turn it out. Ive dont that several times and it works great. even on my old 96 LT1 cyl. head mannifold bolts that were broken off due to age. they just turned right now.
if that bolt is bottomed out, then Id do the welding nut way.
good luck mike. Id be over there in a heartbeat if I lived closer to you buddy.
06-09-2007, 08:09 PM
#6
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: waterford, MI - USA
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unless it breaks off, inside the drilled out hole. thats whatalways seems to happen to me. but, in this case, it should just thread right out. just make sure you dont drill off center and drill into the crank threads. and, get a real tool to install that sucker with man. even with the real kent moore tool, Im paranoid the stud/puller will break off those things require soo much torque to pull on.
good luck.
chris
good luck.
chris
06-09-2007, 09:14 PM
#7
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Location: Dearborn,MI. U.S.A.
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If you are not in a huge rush. I can come by monday and get it out.I do it all the time at work on bolts and taps. A grade 8 is still kinda soft in the middle.Is the end od the bolt near the end of the crank? r is it in a ways? Can ya post a pic of it? Steven
06-09-2007, 09:55 PM
#8
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Livonia, Mi
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unless it breaks off, inside the drilled out hole. thats whatalways seems to happen to me. but, in this case, it should just thread right out. just make sure you dont drill off center and drill into the crank threads. and, get a real tool to install that sucker with man. even with the real kent moore tool, Im paranoid the stud/puller will break off those things require soo much torque to pull on.
good luck.
chris
good luck.
chris
Honestly I was hoping to get the engine in tomorrow, but if I can't get it out its not gonna kill me to wait. I will post up some pictures, you wont be able to see much its broken off about 3-3.5 inches inside.
06-09-2007, 10:21 PM
#9
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: waterford, MI - USA
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ewwww, thats sounds ugly man. did you really mean 3 inches inside? so there's only a small portion of the bolt stuck inside then? thats way inside the crank. how did it break all the way inside there since there's threads all the way out the end of the crank?
if your gonna openup the ID of the pulley, maybe you might want to try the heating the pulley up first. if you stick that sucker in the oven, set it to like 300deg.'s, then use oven mits to handle it ofcourse, it should go on VERY easy. thats the old school way to install those on small chevy's with a block of wood and a hammer. trust me, it works great. havent ever had to do it on an LS1 though since I have access to the proper tool at work.
and another thing, do you got a couple washers on the end of that bolt when your trying to turn it in? the kent moore tool has a bearing that keeps the friction of the turning nut from adding to the torque required to turn the nut in order to pull the dampner on. I know one time I forgot to put that bearing/washer on there and it was hella hard to turn. I knew something wasnt right right away. then when I realized what I had missed, it went on pretty easy.
if your gonna openup the ID of the pulley, maybe you might want to try the heating the pulley up first. if you stick that sucker in the oven, set it to like 300deg.'s, then use oven mits to handle it ofcourse, it should go on VERY easy. thats the old school way to install those on small chevy's with a block of wood and a hammer. trust me, it works great. havent ever had to do it on an LS1 though since I have access to the proper tool at work.
and another thing, do you got a couple washers on the end of that bolt when your trying to turn it in? the kent moore tool has a bearing that keeps the friction of the turning nut from adding to the torque required to turn the nut in order to pull the dampner on. I know one time I forgot to put that bearing/washer on there and it was hella hard to turn. I knew something wasnt right right away. then when I realized what I had missed, it went on pretty easy.
06-09-2007, 10:31 PM
#10
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Livonia, Mi
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ewwww, thats sounds ugly man. did you really mean 3 inches inside? so there's only a small portion of the bolt stuck inside then? thats way inside the crank. how did it break all the way inside there since there's threads all the way out the end of the crank?
if your gonna openup the ID of the pulley, maybe you might want to try the heating the pulley up first. if you stick that sucker in the oven, set it to like 300deg.'s, then use oven mits to handle it ofcourse, it should go on VERY easy. thats the old school way to install those on small chevy's with a block of wood and a hammer. trust me, it works great. havent ever had to do it on an LS1 though since I have access to the proper tool at work.
and another thing, do you got a couple washers on the end of that bolt when your trying to turn it in? the kent moore tool has a bearing that keeps the friction of the turning nut from adding to the torque required to turn the nut in order to pull the dampner on. I know one time I forgot to put that bearing/washer on there and it was hella hard to turn. I knew something wasnt right right away. then when I realized what I had missed, it went on pretty easy.
if your gonna openup the ID of the pulley, maybe you might want to try the heating the pulley up first. if you stick that sucker in the oven, set it to like 300deg.'s, then use oven mits to handle it ofcourse, it should go on VERY easy. thats the old school way to install those on small chevy's with a block of wood and a hammer. trust me, it works great. havent ever had to do it on an LS1 though since I have access to the proper tool at work.
and another thing, do you got a couple washers on the end of that bolt when your trying to turn it in? the kent moore tool has a bearing that keeps the friction of the turning nut from adding to the torque required to turn the nut in order to pull the dampner on. I know one time I forgot to put that bearing/washer on there and it was hella hard to turn. I knew something wasnt right right away. then when I realized what I had missed, it went on pretty easy.
The feeling like I'm gonna puke is pretty much gone now, but I'm going to go drink until it comes back. This is worse than the day I blew the engine up in the first place.
