I have a 1985 Z-28 that I' ve owned since new. I want to sell it this spring/summer. The Kelly Blue Book and NADA guides give much different valuations for my car. Which is a better indication of what the market will actually bear? I suppose it come down to whether its a "20 year old used car" or a "classic musclecar".

Joe Maj
Midland, MI.

 

I usually go by KBB private party value as a general guideline.

edit: After looking, I guess it's not a great tool to determine value of older cars

 

from what i have seen KBB only gives you the low market value of your car....

NADA will reflect a more accurate pricing I do believe...

..but there is no better place to judge a cars value than the market...do a search on autotrader to see what comparable cars like yours are being sold for...after all these are your competition...

peace

 

yep. use the books as reference and a starting point which is usually very true. figure out what your insurance would give you if it was totalled as well might help.

the best way is to check the market though, something is only worth what another will pay for it. unfortunately it isn't an iroc or a 91-92z28 which seem to hold the most value, if it's in good condition though you never know.

if your serious about selling it taking it to camaro superfest in july would be a great idea as well. you'll find people who are looking for special/rare vehicles there who will pay more also.

good luck.

 

The way anyone in the car business puts it is ... With cars like that, especially if they have high miles.. Throw out the book values... Base the price on the condition of the vehicle and ignore the odometer If you want to know what they are going for on average, get someone to run a Manheim Market Report on it

 

in all seriousness if you thought it was worth alot more then the blue book area you probably already have a pretty good idea.

what kind of condition is this thing in? low/high mileage? does it need work or could you show it?

 

Thanks, guys.

I just gave the car its spring cleaning, and it still looks great to me, too bad it isn't worth anything. But that's depreciation.

I'll probably auction it at e-bay.

Specifically, it has the TPI and t-tops, and almost all factory options.
Some stuff doesn't work: radio, A/C blows warm, power door locks unlock but don't lock. 122,000 miles. No rust (stored winters), no accidents, just a few minor dings and scratches on the exterior. Front buckets were protected with seat covers. Original paint, copper color. Needs new front tires, some exhaust system work (hole in the tailpipe aft of the muffler). Probably due for a tune up. Radiator and heater cores have been replaced. At 70,000 miles the engine spun a bearing and started clanking, mechanic replaced the crank and main bearings, a bottom overhaul I'd guess you'd call it.

Why didn't I buy an IROC??? Didn't think the extra $1500 bought that much, the colors were too bold for my taste, and rotating the unidirectional tires meant demounting - making a simple job a pain in the ***.

Joe Maj