im looking for a write up or even your decription(help) on how to change the front springs/shocks. I have a set of Eibach pro's. Do I need a spring compressor, what linkage do I take off ect.. I could do it right now but I dont want to do more then I have to.,

Joe

 

If you have the struts out of the car already, I suggest you take them to a shop and have them compressed there and switched. If not done correctly a spring can actually come off while you are working on it with enough force to remove your head from your shoulders. I have a shop by me that does it for 30 bucks for both of them, and I dont have to worry about if I will live long enough to drive me car again. Plus if you do it yourself, you are in for a MAJOR PITA.

Q

 

Agreed.

You also have to remove the master cylinder from the brake booster in order to remove the upper mount on the drivers side. Remove the lower A-arm mount and then the whole assembly will come out very easily.

 

okok... thanks.

question though.

#1
I can take the spring in shock off in one unit correct? Without it killing me.

I dont have to get the old one compressed to get it off. I have a new front spring and shock.

So the question is do I have to still take that new front spring in to the auto store and get it compressed to mate with the shock???? Im illiterated here!

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#2 To take the spring/shock combo out all I have to do is remover the knuckle that is at the top of the fender??? Its hard to explain. Any one have a write up or should I look at a manual.

Thanks

Joe

 

also do I have to get a front end alignment??

 

#1 Yes the old one will come off in one piece without killing you once you remove the upper shock mount from the fender.

Since you have new springs and shocks you could go to a GM dealer and buy 2 new upper shock mounts then you won't have to get them taken apart.

#2 There are 2 bolts that hold the bottom of the shock to the lower A-arm and then there is the rubber mount that gets bolted throught the fender. Undo those and the whole thing will come out as one unit. You will most likely have to remove the spindle from the lower A-arm in order for the A-arm to drop enough to get the shock out.

As far as an alignment, I haven't gotten one on my car yet but I think it would be a wise idea. My tires were pretty worn so I plan on getting new tires and an alignment at the same time.

 

Just put Eibachs on my LS1 car a month ago.
Remove front wheels with car supported so suspension will droop. Remove swaybar endlinks - make a measurement from top of bolt to top of nut for reference height when reinstalling. Place jack under lower control arm. Remove upper ball joint cotter pin and nut. Rap the spindle a few sharp times with a hammer where the upper ball joint slides through. It should break lose otherwise a pickle fork will separate it. Remove bolts holding strut assy to lower control arm and body strut tower. On drivers side the master cylinder mounting bolts and possibly the ABS block bolts will have to be removed to gain access to the body strut tower bolts. The ABS block has slots - so just loosen the nuts and slide it out. Lower the jack - make sure to provide support for the spindle/brake assy so the brake hose is not damaged. Strut assy now can be removed. Rent an external (important) coil spring compressor from Auto Zone for free! You will need an impact gun, sockets, and air compressor. Mark the orientation of the top strut mount to the shockbody with a marker or tape - makes it much easier to reinstall in car without twisting the strut around to line up the upper and lower mounting holes. Very important Evenly compress both sides of the spring a few turns at a time. If the spring looks like it is not compressing evenly, undo the it and start over. Take your time here and use your spider sense so you do not injure yourself and everything around you. Once spring is compressed enough so there is no tension against the top strut mount, remove the top shock bolt. Remove strut mount and take note of how the bumpers and shock shaft dust guard are and remove old spring. Remove compressor from the old spring, again backing out an even number of turns per side. Compress new spring, reinstall strut mount and orient it with the mark you made on the shock body, and tighten bolt. Remove spring compressor slowly. Reassemble - reversing directions.
Note 1: It is not completely necessary to separate the upper ball joint from the spindle. The upper control arm is sandwiched between the upper strut mount and the body strut tower and is not attached to the upper strut mount. So it can stay attached to the spindle. I removed it for room to work and to clean it.
Note 2: The stock deCarbon shocks/struts will wear out with 4-6 months of daily driving with the Eibachs. It is a good time now (especially with a car that has some miles on it) to replace them with SLP Bilsteins, Konis, Edelbrock IAS, or another high performance shock/strut.
Note 3: You will need an alignment. I suggest - 1.0 degree camber, +4.5 degree caster, and zero toe for daily driving. I went with a more agressive - 1.3, +4.4, 1/32 toe out on my car as I through it around corners and don't drive it every day.

Hope this helps. And please tell me that you are going to do it yourself after I spent 30 minutes on the clock at work to type this!

 

Just reading this makes me chuckle.

Trust me when I say (like the others) to take it to a shop.

The first time I did this. It took a buddy of mine and myself around 7 hours!!!!

I have coilovers now so spring swaps are easy. I can do (and have a few times ) remove all four springs and shocks and reinstall in about 40 minutes.

Then again if I try changing plugs it takes a couple freakin days.

 

JTSC23,

Thanks for the write up, that helped alot. I ended up buying a manual. The driver side took me about 4hrs. The passenger side only 1hr. I would of probably taken it to the shop since I broke off about 4 bolts....sway bar broke and shock mounts. Its all together now. Looks great. Ill have pics shortly. Got my torque thruster II's on now.


Joe