F-bods + Snow?
F-bods + Snow?
I was just curious, since an unusual situation has presented itself to me. I may have the opportunity to buy a good condition '97 Z28 for cheap ($4500ish). Though it has high miles the body is in perfect condition, everything looks stock, has PW, PL, TTs (good looking seals), cloth seats, etc.
My question is this: with no TCS, and decent tires, how managable would an LT1 car be?
My first winter that I drove in, was in a RWD car, but is was a pretty weak car. Since then I have driven a neon
, though one of those was with summer tires. So the snow doesn't scare me, I'd just like to know if it'll move in a (mostly) straight line.
Or do you think I should stick with my previous plan of buying a beater '85 Prelude
for an absurdly low price.
My question is this: with no TCS, and decent tires, how managable would an LT1 car be?
My first winter that I drove in, was in a RWD car, but is was a pretty weak car. Since then I have driven a neon
, though one of those was with summer tires. So the snow doesn't scare me, I'd just like to know if it'll move in a (mostly) straight line.Or do you think I should stick with my previous plan of buying a beater '85 Prelude
for an absurdly low price.
hgfjghj
All ya gotta do is respect the torque and yer the king of the snow
Momentum can get you through th deepest of snow and it can also get you into the deepest of ditches
I'd suggest you spend $200-300 for a nice set of snow tires just for the rear of the car. Size 225/55/16(it's 26" tall like a 245/50/16 but it is just a little skinnier. parts the snow nicely). I just msde my sister buy a set of Bridgestone Blizzak WS-50's in that size. I guess 215/60/16 sometimes works also and it would be cheaper. Just be sure it's as close to 26" tall as you can get. Every tiremaker is different. Goodluck!
Momentum can get you through th deepest of snow and it can also get you into the deepest of ditches
I'd suggest you spend $200-300 for a nice set of snow tires just for the rear of the car. Size 225/55/16(it's 26" tall like a 245/50/16 but it is just a little skinnier. parts the snow nicely). I just msde my sister buy a set of Bridgestone Blizzak WS-50's in that size. I guess 215/60/16 sometimes works also and it would be cheaper. Just be sure it's as close to 26" tall as you can get. Every tiremaker is different. Goodluck!
Re: rhdfhf
Don't do it.
Not only will you have the potential for distaster, but you will look like a fool. I don't know how many times i've pointed and laughed at someone that can afford a nice sports car, but the broke @ss can't afford a $500 winter beater
Yes it can be done, but I wouldn't recommend it unless its absolutely necessary.
Not only will you have the potential for distaster, but you will look like a fool. I don't know how many times i've pointed and laughed at someone that can afford a nice sports car, but the broke @ss can't afford a $500 winter beater
Yes it can be done, but I wouldn't recommend it unless its absolutely necessary.
Well, since this winter I am going to be one of those people Mike likes to point and laugh at, i'll chime in. This will be the second time i have driven my car in the winter. It isnt bad. I went from bridgstone potenzas to blizzacks half way through the winter last time. you wouldnt believe the difference. People drove V-8 rear wheel drive cars in the winter for decades, its not a big deal(if you know how to drive)
Last edited by ROADRAGE; Nov 9, 2002 at 08:37 AM.
Originally posted by ROADRAGE
People drove V-8 rear wheel drive cars in the winter for decades, its not a big deal(if you know how to drive)
People drove V-8 rear wheel drive cars in the winter for decades, its not a big deal(if you know how to drive)
Get some goodyear RSA 245/50 Z16 tires on all 4 corners. Go to watch a dirt track race. Front drivers suck in the winter with the wrong tires. Front drivers suck in the summer with exellent brand new tires.
Originally posted by IROC5.7TPI
I'm not necessarily bashing anyone for driving a RWD car in the snow, but wait til next summer when you get your car up ona hoist and see what all the salt has done to the underside. It makes rust in places you never thought of looking.
I'm not necessarily bashing anyone for driving a RWD car in the snow, but wait til next summer when you get your car up ona hoist and see what all the salt has done to the underside. It makes rust in places you never thought of looking.
Having registered six years of Trans Ams in the winter because I buy these cars to drive and not park, I'll tell you it can be done comfortably. In fact, I ran the Nittos until December 24th last year on a daily driver heads and cam car.
Now this might be the first year I actually break down and run Blizzaks given the slightly beefer pull of the 422. There's something about taunting the Texans about not being able to drive in the rain let alone in the snow.
I can appreaciate those who don't have time to maintain their cars in the winter, wanting to use a $500 beater. The reality is that if you wash it and maintain the like you do in the summer, rust is of little concern.
So there will be those that like to laugh at the high performance V-8 stuck in the snow, but I'd prefer to be laughed at for that with the engine still warm than getting laughed at for sitting at the light in my dead $500 beater when the engine dies. Remember, there's a good chance that you could be waiting over six hours for a tow on a nasty winter day while AAA tries to play catchup. So be prepared in any car you use in the winter.
In the end, drive to your skill level and the weather conditions. The only points you get for setting speed records in a snow or ice storm are the ones you get for causing an accident. So take your time and get there when you get there.
Rick
Now this might be the first year I actually break down and run Blizzaks given the slightly beefer pull of the 422. There's something about taunting the Texans about not being able to drive in the rain let alone in the snow.

I can appreaciate those who don't have time to maintain their cars in the winter, wanting to use a $500 beater. The reality is that if you wash it and maintain the like you do in the summer, rust is of little concern.
So there will be those that like to laugh at the high performance V-8 stuck in the snow, but I'd prefer to be laughed at for that with the engine still warm than getting laughed at for sitting at the light in my dead $500 beater when the engine dies. Remember, there's a good chance that you could be waiting over six hours for a tow on a nasty winter day while AAA tries to play catchup. So be prepared in any car you use in the winter.

In the end, drive to your skill level and the weather conditions. The only points you get for setting speed records in a snow or ice storm are the ones you get for causing an accident. So take your time and get there when you get there.
Rick
My current vehicle is the first vehicle i have ever owned that wasn't a v8 and rear wheel drive. For the past six years I have drive rear wheel drive v8 vehicles in the winter, last winter I drove my Lightning with 4.56 gears and I made it through every storm just fine. I would have to say get some good tires though, they make all the difference in the world and definately add some weight to the rear, you should be fine. However you won't like it when a salt truck roles by and blasts salt all over your f-body and if you don't wash it off every other day you will have a rust car sooner than you expect. Your f-body will be the best at doing donuts until you slam into the ditch, but your ABS will help alot, that was my biggest problem that none of my cars had ABS functional.
tyiut7
I didn't think about incurance. wow.
I myself would save a little under a grand just by taking my camaro off the streets for the winter(Which I do). Insuring my beater 93 cavalier costs 1/4 of the camaro incurance.
Nobody cares, i'm just saying that you could buy a beater for the money you save by not paying F-Body insurnace
I myself would save a little under a grand just by taking my camaro off the streets for the winter(Which I do). Insuring my beater 93 cavalier costs 1/4 of the camaro incurance.
Nobody cares, i'm just saying that you could buy a beater for the money you save by not paying F-Body insurnace
It's not that it's hard for me to drive in the winter in a F-body, it's that nobody else can drive in the winter in any car! I don't want some idiot to loose control on a patch of ice and slam into my car.
This winter and every winter after this I'll be driving my 89 Suburban. Don't let the fact that it's a SUV fool you, it sucks in the snow. It's not 4wd and it likes to slide, alot. In a parking lot in the winter I think the wind could make this thing slide.
This winter and every winter after this I'll be driving my 89 Suburban. Don't let the fact that it's a SUV fool you, it sucks in the snow. It's not 4wd and it likes to slide, alot. In a parking lot in the winter I think the wind could make this thing slide.
Originally posted by Duke
It's not that it's hard for me to drive in the winter in a F-body, it's that nobody else can drive in the winter in any car! I don't want some idiot to loose control on a patch of ice and slam into my car.
It's not that it's hard for me to drive in the winter in a F-body, it's that nobody else can drive in the winter in any car! I don't want some idiot to loose control on a patch of ice and slam into my car.
On the other side of the coin, Michigan winter's have become increasingly mild. So I can also see why a lot of people drive year-round and maybe have a set of winter tires for the season. Everyone will do what suits them best.
i learned to drive in a 2wd ranger.. thats a night mare in the snow.. f-bodys do ok in the snow..it wont do as good as a escort or something stupid..but youll be fine..just take it nice and easy and wash that salt off every day at the quarter car wash..it also helps to use alotta spray oil on it like lubricant style stuff to prevent rust


