dana 44
As per SLP when I bought their last one it should hold up to 450 hp, but no guarantee. They would not even commit to motor hp or rear wheel hp. Trying to find one will be difficult. I suggest for any real power go with a 9" or 12 bolt. Both have shown to hold up to bigger hp than the Dana.
Jeff everyone now days are going with the 12 bolt.
Jeff I talked to Richard bewick today and he said to have you call as he could do the 700R4 or a 200R4. He also said that if you wanted to do the 200R4 to make sure you use a 86 or 87 GN core as the others would not hold up. He said as long as you were not running slicks the 700R4 would hold up after he did the build up with the HP you are talking. I hope this helps. I also sent you a e mail about the other things you were talking about.
Jeff I talked to Richard bewick today and he said to have you call as he could do the 700R4 or a 200R4. He also said that if you wanted to do the 200R4 to make sure you use a 86 or 87 GN core as the others would not hold up. He said as long as you were not running slicks the 700R4 would hold up after he did the build up with the HP you are talking. I hope this helps. I also sent you a e mail about the other things you were talking about.
Jeff,
This is sacrilidge but it might just work for you.My roomate was telling me that some people off of LS1tech.com took a ford 8.8 rearend and cut the axle tubes off of it and welded the ones from their 10 bolt on to it.That way all of the factory mounting points for the 3rd gen are there other than the torque arm.I don't know what they did for the torque arm provision.There was a post up about how it got done.I think if it can be done right that it would be a cheaper more cost effective way to go.And in this months hot rod or car craft they said that the 8.8 can take as much abuse as a 12 bolt.I know at least out here you could pick up a 8.8 from U pick for $75 as a starting point.Of course you would have to get a set of custom axles made but I think you could have that done for @ $300. Alot of people look to the 9' or the 12 bolt when doing an upgrade but the 8.8 is'nt really that much weaker than the other 2 if any.If you want to keep your car all GM and go with a 12 bolt I understand but I just thought I'd throw that out for ya to HMM and Haw at.
James
This is sacrilidge but it might just work for you.My roomate was telling me that some people off of LS1tech.com took a ford 8.8 rearend and cut the axle tubes off of it and welded the ones from their 10 bolt on to it.That way all of the factory mounting points for the 3rd gen are there other than the torque arm.I don't know what they did for the torque arm provision.There was a post up about how it got done.I think if it can be done right that it would be a cheaper more cost effective way to go.And in this months hot rod or car craft they said that the 8.8 can take as much abuse as a 12 bolt.I know at least out here you could pick up a 8.8 from U pick for $75 as a starting point.Of course you would have to get a set of custom axles made but I think you could have that done for @ $300. Alot of people look to the 9' or the 12 bolt when doing an upgrade but the 8.8 is'nt really that much weaker than the other 2 if any.If you want to keep your car all GM and go with a 12 bolt I understand but I just thought I'd throw that out for ya to HMM and Haw at.
James
I always wondered about the 8.8" ford cause they run those on all those mustang shootout cars. some of them running in the 9's w/the 8.8 rear still.
you could do the same thing w/the GM 8.5 from a first/sec. gen fcar also. they are very strong. my buddy narrowd one and put it under his turbo firebird w/ladder bars.
as for the torque arm someone makes a rear susp. kit that deletes the torque arm. CE maybe? cant remember.
chris
you could do the same thing w/the GM 8.5 from a first/sec. gen fcar also. they are very strong. my buddy narrowd one and put it under his turbo firebird w/ladder bars.
as for the torque arm someone makes a rear susp. kit that deletes the torque arm. CE maybe? cant remember.
chris
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