What is up NE Ohio!!
What is up NE Ohio!!
Just Sayin hello to all, I got my 6 speed conversion on the way, should be getting it in the next 2 weeks because the kid has to finish taking it out of the car.
Now I will beable to autocross like I want to and have more fun on the street.
Hey Bobby Give me a call or I will try you later or tomorrow.
WAZUP Gary, Hope the knee is doing better, I am going to need your help.
Peace
Now I will beable to autocross like I want to and have more fun on the street.
Hey Bobby Give me a call or I will try you later or tomorrow.
WAZUP Gary, Hope the knee is doing better, I am going to need your help.
Peace
hey steve, the knee is doing pretty good. i drove the camaro no problem yesterday!!! once i get my new brace ill be good to go. let me know whenever you need help with the car. i have an air compressor and a decent amount of tools at my house we could use. i also have $10,000+ work of sh*t at work
Steve,
I will call you Thursday nite, I finally got around to writing up a ad for that motor I have for sale. I was busy all weekend, working on the 01' SS, getting it ready for the warm weather this weekend. The Car is almost done, just a few minor details to make it driveable! It will be lots of fun now!!!!!
Gary,
Hope your knee is doin' good, How did your car run?
Hope to see you guys soon!!!!!
I will call you Thursday nite, I finally got around to writing up a ad for that motor I have for sale. I was busy all weekend, working on the 01' SS, getting it ready for the warm weather this weekend. The Car is almost done, just a few minor details to make it driveable! It will be lots of fun now!!!!!
Gary,
Hope your knee is doin' good, How did your car run?
Hope to see you guys soon!!!!!
well guys, hell finally froze over!! i got my new brace today!! its gonna take some getting used to but at least i can bend my knee all the time now. bob the camaro is running great, except for the squealing belt. im probably going to start driving it every day now.
I got the conversion from a guy off of the forum, He is from texas.
He is helping me out alot and seemed to be a great kid.
Good to hear gary, I will get ahold of you this weekend or I will try stopping over.
Peace.
PS Heading up to the shop in a min. Bob. LOL
He is helping me out alot and seemed to be a great kid.
Good to hear gary, I will get ahold of you this weekend or I will try stopping over.
Peace.
PS Heading up to the shop in a min. Bob. LOL
Damn!! That would have been nice to know, would have made my life easier, If for some reason this guy dicks me over which I dont suspect it to, I will have to get ahold of grease.
Peace
Peace
Gary...how hard is it to replace an ignition cylinder in a f-body? My SS hasn't ran for about 2 weeks or so. After doing research, asking questions, and doing some basic dignosis; I think the VATs system is malfunctioning. The the ignition cylinder sensor wires are probably broken, preventing the BCM from "reading" the key pill; therefore, the cylinder has to be replaced.
Steve....I think you will be extremely happy with the new M6. Better start saving for a rearend though!
Bob....I thought you were going to wait until next year to install the 12 bolt? I knew you were going to install it soon. I figured you would have installed it without telling anyone then through some slicks on the SS and turn a high 12, LoL...sneaky!
Steve....I think you will be extremely happy with the new M6. Better start saving for a rearend though!
Bob....I thought you were going to wait until next year to install the 12 bolt? I knew you were going to install it soon. I figured you would have installed it without telling anyone then through some slicks on the SS and turn a high 12, LoL...sneaky!
brian, i honestly don't know how long it would take to replace an igition cylinder, ive never changed one on an f body. im having a phantom starting problem with my camaro now. i thought i fixed it at work today, got it off the lift and backed it up and shut it off, then went to start it and it started acting up again. the car intermittently wont crank. i am lost trying to figure it out.
Gary...have you checked your crank position sensor? Maybe you have having some issues with the VATS like I am. When it doesn't crank, does the car act like you turned the key to start the car without pushing in the clutch or does the engine crank but won't turn over? If you have full power and an fuse/relay problems and the car simply won't do anything when you turn the key to position 2(start) kind of like a dead battery, but the dash lights all work normally then again it may be a vats issue. I have been talking with a guy on the Ls1tech forum and he seems to be very technically knowledgable. I am not sure if this will apply directly to your LT1 but it may be worth a try since it is a common problem with newer f-bodies:
There are two indicators that the security light will give you in certain situations: One, as you turn the ignition key to start the car, the security light comes on and stays lit. The starter won't crank, and your fuel pump is disabled. The BCM (Battery Control Modulator, I think; book ain't in front of me) is telling the computer that the key being used doesn't have a resistor in it, or the resistor in the key has the wrong value. Two, you turn the key to start the car and the security light flashes, the starter won't crank. The computer is "sensing" either a bad key, or the theft-deterrent system was activated, or the ignition cylinder sensor isn't picking up the key's resistor.
The first condition (steady security light) will reset itself after approx. three minutes; after that, the car should start, there being no other problems. The second condition (flashing security light), you won't get the car started.
You can verify if the vats is the culprit by by-passing it:
Here's what I did: First, grab a multimeter that can read Ohm's (resistance) Measure the resistance in your ignition key pill. Second, head to Radio Shack or some other electronics store that sells common electrical parts, and pick up two wire resistors of the same value. Next, locate the ignition cylinder sensor wire leading from the cylinder; it will be about 16-18 guage, and in an orange shroud (find it as it comes out of the steering column, underneath the knee bolster). Follow that wire to the male/female pin connector; should be either white or black plastic connector. This is where you will insert a resistor of the same value as the resistor found in your ignition key. You can solder it in, or pinch the wires in place with the connector itself; that's what I did. This fools the BCM into thinking the ignition cylinder is reading the key pill value, and will allow you to start your car.
Eventually I replaced my ignition cylinder, and found the 26-guage wires leading from the sensor ring to be broken. It's a common malady for our cars. Good luck, hope this helps!
If your relays and fuses are good, battery has a charge, starter motor wires are good, and your key "pills" are clean and dry, then I would have to say the ignition cylinder sensor wires are probably broken, preventing the BCM from "reading" the key pill.
There are two indicators that the security light will give you in certain situations: One, as you turn the ignition key to start the car, the security light comes on and stays lit. The starter won't crank, and your fuel pump is disabled. The BCM (Battery Control Modulator, I think; book ain't in front of me) is telling the computer that the key being used doesn't have a resistor in it, or the resistor in the key has the wrong value. Two, you turn the key to start the car and the security light flashes, the starter won't crank. The computer is "sensing" either a bad key, or the theft-deterrent system was activated, or the ignition cylinder sensor isn't picking up the key's resistor.
The first condition (steady security light) will reset itself after approx. three minutes; after that, the car should start, there being no other problems. The second condition (flashing security light), you won't get the car started.
You can verify if the vats is the culprit by by-passing it:
Here's what I did: First, grab a multimeter that can read Ohm's (resistance) Measure the resistance in your ignition key pill. Second, head to Radio Shack or some other electronics store that sells common electrical parts, and pick up two wire resistors of the same value. Next, locate the ignition cylinder sensor wire leading from the cylinder; it will be about 16-18 guage, and in an orange shroud (find it as it comes out of the steering column, underneath the knee bolster). Follow that wire to the male/female pin connector; should be either white or black plastic connector. This is where you will insert a resistor of the same value as the resistor found in your ignition key. You can solder it in, or pinch the wires in place with the connector itself; that's what I did. This fools the BCM into thinking the ignition cylinder is reading the key pill value, and will allow you to start your car.
Eventually I replaced my ignition cylinder, and found the 26-guage wires leading from the sensor ring to be broken. It's a common malady for our cars. Good luck, hope this helps!
If your relays and fuses are good, battery has a charge, starter motor wires are good, and your key "pills" are clean and dry, then I would have to say the ignition cylinder sensor wires are probably broken, preventing the BCM from "reading" the key pill.
well i figured it out today. i had the problem narrowed down yesterday to the negative battery cable going to the block. i put a new one on and started it several times and it was good to go. well when i cleaned up and went to leave it wouldn't crank again. i still suspected it was something ground related. well today me and another guy at work started checking things out. it was starting every time, but it was cranking slow. to make a long story short, i installed another ground cable from the back of the alternator to the battery and its all good now. i determined that either the new cable i put on yesterday isn't contacting the block good enough, or the high torque crv starter i put on last fall needs more ground than stock. either way it seems to be good now. i left the camaro at work so i can start it throughout the day tomorrow to make sure its ok.
btw bcm is body control module
btw bcm is body control module
Brian,
I finally got rid of the 73' race car out of the shop, Kevyn bought it as a roller (no motor) and after that was gone I needed something to do, so I installed the 12bolt rearend. I broke it in over the weekend driving it Sat nite & Sunday. I am going to put some more miles on it this weekend before I start getting crazy with her. So far she is running great!!!! Can't wait to get some DR's or slicks on her and take her to the track to see what she will run!!!
Later!!
I finally got rid of the 73' race car out of the shop, Kevyn bought it as a roller (no motor) and after that was gone I needed something to do, so I installed the 12bolt rearend. I broke it in over the weekend driving it Sat nite & Sunday. I am going to put some more miles on it this weekend before I start getting crazy with her. So far she is running great!!!! Can't wait to get some DR's or slicks on her and take her to the track to see what she will run!!!
Later!!


