ProjectZ28-need info
Well, Fred the injuneer says his M6 shows 18-22 degrees advanced timing at 800 rpm's. Mine shows 19-23 degrees in my A4. A good friend of mine BIGDAVE shows 28 degrees in his 94z at idle and is experienceing major K/R. Especially when in gear and revving to 3500 rpm's. 8-9 degrees...
What does your car show on your scanMaster???
I have yet to see mine say anything but 0.0.
I am going to Atco Tuesday night and gonna record some WOT runs. If I remain 0.0, then a Maf translator is going on and I will bump the timing,
Fred
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1994 Z28, A4,
BEST 1/4 12.413@109.55
BEST 1/4 MPH 110.49
BEST 60' 1.668
BEST 1/8 7.884@86.35
BEST 1/8 mph 86.77
Race Weight 3600lbs
DYNO: 324 RWHP,310 RWTQ
What does your car show on your scanMaster???
I have yet to see mine say anything but 0.0.
I am going to Atco Tuesday night and gonna record some WOT runs. If I remain 0.0, then a Maf translator is going on and I will bump the timing,
Fred
------------------
1994 Z28, A4,
BEST 1/4 12.413@109.55
BEST 1/4 MPH 110.49
BEST 60' 1.668
BEST 1/8 7.884@86.35
BEST 1/8 mph 86.77
Race Weight 3600lbs
DYNO: 324 RWHP,310 RWTQ
hehe, yeah Fred, I'm here. The problem here is that I dont have a scanmaster...
. But I can tell you I have used Autotap on it. I honestly never really looked at the KR at the lower rpm's. It never concerned me cause at the track its not going below 3500. On the dyno from 3200-6600 rpm the most KR I saw was 0.4*... thats it. My idle timeing is set for 27*. The factory closed throttle spark advance is what you are reading. The factory sets it to 20* if I am not mistaken. Atleast thats what it is for a 96 LT1. I dont think it would be different for a 94 since the stock cams were pretty much the same specs. I found that my car idles MUCH better with more timing in closed throttle. Remember the days when I had that huge surge at idle? After I finally bought LT1 edit it was one of the first things I went to work on, adding the timing cured the problem. I do know that I dont have any KR on WOT pulls to redline.. and thats about all I care about. If at the lower rpm's around town it pulls some timing... let it as long as it dosent pull timing when I'm calling for max HP via the gas pedal
I dont care. You said your getting 0.0*, thats a good thing bro, dont worry about it.
------------------
Brian
96 Red z28, A4, Flowmaster, SLP CAI, AFPR, B&M transpack & cooler, LT4 KM, 3.73's, T/A girdle, LS1 driveshaft, cc305, Crane 1.6's, MSD 6AL, Meziere, ST3500, JetHot/Hooker LT's
The Project!!!
Best ET: 11.91 Best MPH: 113.54 Best 60': 1.59
327RWHP/380RWTQ
East Coast F-body Nats
It's god's responsibility to forgive Bin Laden, it's our responsibility to arrange the meeting...
-United States Marines
. But I can tell you I have used Autotap on it. I honestly never really looked at the KR at the lower rpm's. It never concerned me cause at the track its not going below 3500. On the dyno from 3200-6600 rpm the most KR I saw was 0.4*... thats it. My idle timeing is set for 27*. The factory closed throttle spark advance is what you are reading. The factory sets it to 20* if I am not mistaken. Atleast thats what it is for a 96 LT1. I dont think it would be different for a 94 since the stock cams were pretty much the same specs. I found that my car idles MUCH better with more timing in closed throttle. Remember the days when I had that huge surge at idle? After I finally bought LT1 edit it was one of the first things I went to work on, adding the timing cured the problem. I do know that I dont have any KR on WOT pulls to redline.. and thats about all I care about. If at the lower rpm's around town it pulls some timing... let it as long as it dosent pull timing when I'm calling for max HP via the gas pedal
I dont care. You said your getting 0.0*, thats a good thing bro, dont worry about it.------------------
Brian
96 Red z28, A4, Flowmaster, SLP CAI, AFPR, B&M transpack & cooler, LT4 KM, 3.73's, T/A girdle, LS1 driveshaft, cc305, Crane 1.6's, MSD 6AL, Meziere, ST3500, JetHot/Hooker LT's
The Project!!!
Best ET: 11.91 Best MPH: 113.54 Best 60': 1.59
327RWHP/380RWTQ
East Coast F-body Nats
It's god's responsibility to forgive Bin Laden, it's our responsibility to arrange the meeting...
-United States Marines
Well, I'm not worried about the 0.0 that I'm getting. BigDave is getting 3 degrees of K/R at idle. He is getting 8-9 degrees at part throttle at times at 3500 rpm's.
His idle spark advance is 28. Mine seems to be between 23-19 fluctuating with the cam. I on a different note am seriously considering getting a Maf Translator so that I can advance my timing a degree to a time until I find a sweet spot. My thinking is that until I reach a point just before K/R starts happening I should be able to maximize my cars performance. Perhaps, like yours is adjusted around 26-27 degrees. I apologize about the first post I could have sworn you had a scan master. Your # changed when you moved right? Talk to you later,
Fred
His idle spark advance is 28. Mine seems to be between 23-19 fluctuating with the cam. I on a different note am seriously considering getting a Maf Translator so that I can advance my timing a degree to a time until I find a sweet spot. My thinking is that until I reach a point just before K/R starts happening I should be able to maximize my cars performance. Perhaps, like yours is adjusted around 26-27 degrees. I apologize about the first post I could have sworn you had a scan master. Your # changed when you moved right? Talk to you later,
Fred
I never took notice to KR at anything other than WOT. So I really cant say what its doing at idle and part throttle. Next time I have a chance to look at it with Autotap I'll definately look. Oh and yeah my number changed. I thought you had it, 665-8959. The MAF translator might help you a bit, but i'm not really that familliar with it. I know alot of people use it but I have been concentrating on making changes thru LT1 edit vs. a translator to modify the pulse signal from the sensor. Let me know how it works out.
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