Well what a pain that was. Bought the front half kit from Wolfe. Already had an 8 point in it from Strope Speed Shopp. Needless to say they didn't mesh that well only because the 8 point was put in at a slightly different angle so we had to do quite a bit of extra notching and fab work. We also added an extra bar in the roof halo. Let me know what you think.

Pics here: http://community.webshots.com/album/263592745zjeYOD

BTW, nobody has to tell me that zip ties are not an accepted way to mount a parachute release lever Just checking the reach on it.

 

Looks good Dave. I havent seen that car in a long time. Its come a long ways since I saw it at that VF meet a few years ago. Are you going to put the stock dah back in it? That doesnt look like it will be any fun either to make it slip back in. Thats partly why I just went with an 8pt bar. I figure if I ever need to step up I'll tackle that job later.

What are you going to use for a windshield? I ask because I am putting my car on a major diest as we speak. I had a little accident out there in the garage and my windshield had a contest with a hammer....the hammer won needles to say. I have been looking at Lexan and I'm just curious to know how well it can fit on an F-bod. I'm leaning towards Percy's speedglass. Its more expensive but they are pre molded pre-cut 1" oversize . The coating they put on them is just amazing but putting the black trim around it is a bit more involved than just masking it off and painting it. Percys also sells plain Lexan precut for pretty cheap.

 

Thanks man. Funny thing is it's the same car as the valley forge gathering but I ended up buying the white firebird with the procharger that day and sold the red one to my dad. The bird's on jackstands and dad still owns this one. I just spend the money and drive it

I'm using the stock windshield, have to for state inspection not to mention it's a rule requirement for the fastest street car stuff I do. I heard the Percy's is pretty good stuff though. You might want to check inspection laws if you're gonna drive it on the street.

 

So is the dash back in? Did you have to put a cross member from a-pillar bar to A-pillar bar? Where did you put that? I need to put a similar kit into my car, haven't seen very many people that go the in dash route..

 

No the dash isn't back in and yes we put a cross bar. It's gonna work with my setup because the dash is gutted. If you're gonna keep the hvac stuff it probably won't fit. The rules say you don't need it unless you have modified the firewall.

 

I'm not going to drive mine on the street... I cant get registration for it here in NJ. They are real hard on that kind of stuff, and its not worth getting caught.

I remember the white bird. I knew you still had it but I wasnt sure about how the whole red car thing went. I saw it at E-town over the summer but I didnt know it was dad's

You bought the white one from Steve right? And I think you bought it right after that VF meet if I am not mistaken.


As for the cage, I think what I really like the most is how high up the halo is. Its really tucked up high and out of the way along with the pillar bars. It really looks good. the stock dash shold be fun to put back in even with it gutted. With all the HVAC under there I have no doubt it wold not fit. A lot of guys get to this level and just ditch the stock dash, its just easier to fabricate one out of sheet metal. But the stock dash just looks sooooo much better.

I think I am going to go with the Percy's. A new stock replacement is a few hundred bucks. for another hundred or so I can go with the speedglass. I just have to check a few rules for some of the events I like to run to make sure it will be legal. I know I can use it for points at Atco in Heavy. Half the cars I run against there have full Lexan on the car.

 

So I don't have to weld in the cross bar if I am going to keep my Hvac system? I haven't done anything to the firewall, it's stock..

 

If you're installing the cage yourself, your best bet would be to remove the dash and see if you can work a dash bar into the cage. There might be room. Dave's is tucked up way in the dash. While it's not required, it will help increase the torsional stiffness of the car during a hard launch. You're going to have to remove the dash for installation. At that point it'll be worth your while to at least look at installing the dash bar.

Whether or not NHRA would consider a firewall "modified" w/o the HVAC is another question. They might look at the AC delete plate and consider the firewall "altered".

Later,


Steve.

 

I am keeping the AC also.. I downloaded the directions from wolfe's and S&W, and wolfe's get's alittle more technical, although just things like at what height does a cross bar work, do I hole saw the dash pad slip dash pad through the bars and then up out the way to weld in place, or do I drill holes and then relief cuts to push dash into place how does that part all work? I am sorry I am asking so many questions, it's just NO-body either knows what I am talking about or just doesn't like to reply to things like this.. I did a search and this topic came up and is alot like what I am doing, only on a 3rd gen..

 

How you fit the bars into the dash is a matter of personal taste and ability. I cut the living crap out of my dash and firewall and just slotted the dash pad to fit around the bars. We'll see how it turns out.

 

I'd highly suggest slotting the dash and work it it around the bars. Dave slotted his dash very nicely. I also recommend having the windshield removed. We had the bars in and out of the car a 100 times, easily. Slipping the bars through the dash is going to be a major PITA and is only going to create headaches.

Later,


Steve.