Can I change front brake pads at home ? It will be my first time and I'm sure I haven't all required tools and skills.

 

It's very easy to do. just need the right hex wrench, a c - clamp...

Remove wheel, undo bolts holding caliper on. remove old pads, push piston back in with the c-clamp
(some say to bleed the brake system blah blah.. Havent had a problem with just pushing the pistons back in, and going.)

Put new pads in, put caliper back on. rebolt. put wheel back on.
repeat on other side.

when done. push brake pedal in slowly till you go all the way in. then let out slowly... then pump 3 times. w00t. now go drivin.

Man, why do I feel unsafe now.. Someone give him the right answers.

 

*note: the hex bolts are kind of a bitch since it is ur first time changin the pads, there are only 2 and they are behind the caliper toward the engine (incase this is your first time ever).


then do the c-clamp on it like he said. the old pads just snap out, new ones snap in, slide caliper back on (sometimes a little tricky for some folks) tighten the 2 bolts back down. I'm not gonna keep goin with this since he already said everything, I just wanted to help clarify for ya if it wasnt clear after what he said, that away you dont have to post another question about it hehe.

You should get a haynes manual $15 at autozone, it will save you alot of message board questions on how-to.


also whenever ur bleadin the brakes (pushin it in slow after installing them), make sure you take that valve out, (cant remember what exactly its called, someone help me out here), when you see brake fluid squirt out then you know u have all the air out of ur system.

 

and it was going so well until you got to that part

I'm curious exactly what "valve" you're talking about? And just for the record, there should be no reason to have to bleed brakes after just a pad change. If you replace calipers or disconnect a brake line for any reason then you obviously would need to bleed the brakes.

What you will notice after pushing the pistons back in the calipers to put new pads in, is the first time you step on the brake pedal it will go smack to the floor
This is perfectly normal, you have to push the caliper pistons back out a bit, and after a couple pumps on the pedal it will come back up and stay there.
So, don't just jump in the car and go screaming down the driveway or you'll be in for quite a surprise when you get to that first stop.

 

I have to apologize, I don't normally like all the silly smiley face icons, but for some reason I'm getting a bit too addicted to these

I promise to try and show more restraint in the future

 

I almost forgot, might I suggest visiting you local Auto Zone and picking up Performance Friction Carbon Metalic pads?
#1 - they are lifetime guaranteed, last set of pads you'll ever have to lay out cash for. Just bring 'em back when they wear out and pick up a new set
#2 - You'll notice the car stops better. They are just better brakes, period. If you're planning on beating the brakes up a bit, get the Z-rated pads (not sure if Auto Zone carries that line or not)


ya ya ya, i know.....go easy on the smileys

 

I put the PFC brakes on my rear wheels for that reason! he he great minds think alike, and as for the bleeding, I do it everytime just to 'double check' and the valve I was talkin about is that damn bleed screw or whatever its called, im not a brake specialist lol I'm sure its not neccessary, but cant hurt.


NOTE, I had to get those crappy 13 dollar front brakes cause my local AZ was out of PFC front brakes for the maro

the PFC's are like 50 bux, but worth it, kinda like payin the 30 or 40 for a K&N filter....LIFETIME baby my favorite word when it comes to parts hehe.

 

You will need a 3/8 allen to remove the bolts holding the caliper on. Get one that is in a socket. What I do to break the bolts loose is to get the allen bit fully in and square and then pop the ratchet handle with my palm. I am a little leary of just leaning real hard on allen bolts because it seems they are easier to strip the heads. You must keep the allen bit inserted fully and square to prevent this. I also use a long handled ratchet (3/8 flex head) for greater leverage.
The manual suggestion is a good one for someone that is not experienced. Brakes are real important. You don't want to screw them up.

 

I just did this for the first time the other day. I don't have any allen or anything crazy. Just a regular bolt. I just unbolted one side and pivoted the caliper on the other side to get the pads out. I used a screw driver and my hands to push the piston in (I took the cover of the master cylinder off) and put in the new pads. Pivoted the caliper back over the rotor, bolted up the one side again, and that was it.

 

This was on the front? The same caliper mounting bolts are shown in the front for 93-97 and should be allen head. The back caliper mounting bolts are not allen head.

 

Also, put some brake grease on the moving parts & where the pads touch the caliper this will help from sqeaking pads.

 

Yes it was on the back....Oops

 

Yes, it's an easy task. Just start taking everything off like you are going to change the pads. Then once all thats is out of the way, calipers and all, you should be able to slide the rotors off and slide the new ones in place. That is if the rotors are a stock replacement, by that I just mean that the bolt pattern is the same.

 

You will need a large C-clamp. I used an 8 inch that I had, but you might be able to use a 6 inch.

 

Definitely take shoebox's advice, get a hex head that is mounted in a socket. I tried with just typical allen wrench, and by the time I was done with both sides, the wrech was "twisted" by about 90 degrees.