Just wondering for those have Solid Roller setup how you like them. Im in the process of having one built and just wnted to here from the people that have them how they like them. Also what kind of power are you putting down but most important, what are your track times?.

 

My laast engine was a 383 solid roller, ~570 rwhp, best of 9.82 at 138.6 mph. With shaft rockers the initial lash setting was spot on after 6k miles. The key to making one live is in using adequate spring pressure -good springs- and a quality lifter with internal oiling.

If you're just looking to build a garden variety 400-450 rwhp lt1 then I would suggest staying with a hydraulic. I like solids for anything beyond that.

-Mindgame

 

Now thats the kind of numbers I would liek to see. Yea Im not looking for your "garden variety" 400-450rw stroker. Im looking for big power and a broad torque range. What heads were you using with that setup if you dont mind me asking?

 

don't bother with soild rollers for your set up ... you can make plenty of power with a hyd set up ... it's not worth the hassle unless you want a full race car

 

What lifters do you recommend?

 

I am also going with a 383 solid roller.I will be using AFR 210 LT4 style competition ported heads with their solid roller spring(good to .680 lift)
Hooker longtube headers with the y pipe,58mm t.b,42 lb injectors,beefing up my tranny and going with a manual valvebody as well,12 bolt rear with a spool and 410 gears(mph should be ok because the motor will rev to 7k)If not I will switch to a 28 inch tire.
I will also be aiming at 11.5 compression ratio with the eagle forged rotating kit
I will be driving very little on the street maybe 2k miles per year max.
I cant wait to see some numbers on this setup because I really have no idea on what kind of dynonumbers I will get but the more the better

 

We've had a number of discussions on this so the best I can do is have you follow this link.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...t=solid+lifter

MEAN LT1,

I was using a GM 15º race head converted to LT1 reverse cooling. I was also using the LT4 intake and custom spacers to align everything. Needless to say, there was a good deal of work in that one.

I built a 355 LT last year that made just a hair under 500 rwhp with a hydraulic roller. We used Ferrera hollow stem valves, titanium retainers and beehive springs for that build to keep the valvetrain weight down. We also used AFR 215RR heads and a custom CFE intake manifold which drove the price of the build up considerably. I do believe much of the same could be done with a converted single plane.

An engine that makes close to 500rwhp or better NA is always much more than just a parts list. You have to know what you're doing or find someone who does to help you out.

WRT Solid vs hydraulic...

I think the ramp rates can be pretty similar these days, considering some of the hydrualic lobes out there. But then again, many of the solids I like to use are more aggressive and require more spring and stiffer components. There's a tradeoff as with everything but that's the cost involved. You have to be more vigilant than the average hi-po guy. For a guy like me who's been racing cars since about 16 years of age, that's really nothing new.

All said, the "street" solid roller grinds with moderate ramp rates are still slightly more aggressive than most hydros and will live a long life on the street with the right valvesprings and lifters.

-Mindgame