After spending hours reading through all the threads I could search
on SLP shortys (the 96-97 style), and agonizing over “to install” them
or “not to install” them, I have come to some conclusions based on my
setup with the torque-monster baby cam and ported cast iron manifolds.

1) Less low RPM torque and HP (may help 1st gear wheelspin and launch)
2) Torque and HP should be improved from 4,000 to 6,000 RPM
3) Peak torque and HP increase (5-10 and maybe up to 15)
4) 12 pound weight reduction
5) Smog legal (CARB Executive Order D-187-7)

From an installation standpoint, they don't seem any worse than cast iron
manifolds. Additional care/protection of the heater hose and a couple of
plug wires will be necessary. The starter and dipstick tube will need to
come out, and all the other typical stuff. I can easily drop my exhaust
system so that is not an issue. I also plan on using stock GM manifold
gaskets since the SLPs have thick flanges.

The SLPs are in great shape and will get a full cleanup and ceramic coating.
I have new O2 sensors that would go in about 1000 miles after the install.

Any comments or suggestions (aside from get mids or LTs)?

 

Pick up extra self stick thermal shielding from jegs to complelty cover the heater box and hoses. The extra heat shielding is worth it. You won't be able to use the factory stacked steel gaskets without modifications.....the headers use different bolt holes that aren't there in the steel shims. Also, get Percy's dead soft aluminum header gaskets. Since you only want to do this once, use these gaskets! Anything else will burn though if a header bolt loostens. I learned my lesson. Locking bolts like Breslin or Stage 8 are highly recommended.

After the headers are done, get a good Y pipe. The factory one is marginal at best. I used a Random Tech high flow dual cat Y pipe and the results are great with the shorties.

 

I'm planning to install my SLP Shorties over the winter also. I'm trying to decide which gaskets & bolts to use. I already have the y-pipe gaskets.

Just curious - why wait until after 1000 miles to install new O2 sensors? It seems that it would easier to do it at the same time as the header install.

Lee
96 Z28

 

There have been some examples of 02 sensors getting fouled when new headers are installed and fired up. Evidently there is a certain amount of burn off that 02 sensors don't seem to like. I would run the old ones for a few weeks and then install the new ones.

 

fully concur- learned that lesson after my header burned through my coolant line and after having to tighten they bolts that come in install kit once a month...

and def pick up new set of o2's and wait cause yours will definately go not long after-

other than that ive been real happy with the shorty's ... i need emmisions legal to pass a salvage inspection and had to use factory Y-pipe so these got me out of a jam and picked up a few horse..

 

Get a really small wrench, cause bolt access sucks. The pipes are really close to the bolt heads. I used Breslin bolts and they worked very well, I even used them when I switched to Pacesetter LT's. Heat sheilding is a must as well, esp. on the passenger side like noted above by everyone else.

 

Great info! Thanks Joe 1320. I have no Y pipe issues, all is good.

And thank you kingman109 and ulakovic22. Maybe I should pick up
the SLP mini-socket for plugs too.