I finally have my cam in and heads on and put in ls7 lifters, I was trying to obtain the correct pushrod length and was wanting to know if anyone has ever figured out a part # for a solid lifter that would be the same as the ls7 lifters? I've read about ppl taking an ls7 lifter apart and putting spacers in it to make it act like a solid but with my limited knowledge in this area and not wanting to take a brand new lifter apart to do this, would rather just buy 1 solid for measuring.

 

The best way is to make the lifter you have solid, as suggested. That way you know it is the exact height of what you got. All you do is take the snap ring off to disassemble it. Just keep track of how it comes apart. You will be ok.

 

ok, i guess thats the route i'll go, thanks again shoebox

another question I have is, I was getting ready to send my pcm off for programming and I am unsure of the transmission I have. I know its either a 700R4/4L60 or 4L60E, but since they look almost the same, I don't know which I have. The only thing I can find on it is on the passenger side at the top of the front of the case it has "M30", from what I found this is on both trannies. It has a round plug that comes down from the top on the passenger side and only has a small plug going to the tail shaft (speed sensor?) Any other way to tell?

 

If the transmission is in the 01, it's a 4L60E. The 4L60 that was in the 93s only was called an MD8, not M30.

 

Yeah like shoebox said, just take your time and make sure you watch how it comes apart. I used a small screwdriver to get clip off, and then used various small washers to shim it to correct height. The objective is obviously to make sure there is no up and down play with the cup portion of lifter. I was also careful to not scratch the inside of lifter when I did mine.

It will make you feel better degreeing the cam with a lifter that you are sure matches the others.

 

You can always use these check springs.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Some people have had luck finding a low tension spring at the hardware store. If you try to find one, it should be about 2" long and 7/8 diameter.
I did mine this way with no problems. Like you, I didn't want to take the lifter apart.

 

I shimmed the lifter to make it solid and it worked like a charm, thanks for the help guys, with the stock pushrods the mark is narrow and still almost perfectly in the center of the stems

 

Im doing the same thing, I took the clip off and the top came off and the little flat piece but how do I get the inside piece out withthe spring. I cant pull it out with my finger? Im afraid to scratch it with a screwdriver.

 

I tried this with one of my old LT1 lifters and it was the same way......i'm afraid to ruin a new lifter

 

You won't hurt it by popping it out with a screwdriver. The vacuum seal formed by the snug fit and the oil inside the lifter has to be broken. You might also try blasting a shot of compressed air into the oil hole on the side of the lifter. I usually replace the wire clip in the top of the lifter with a real snap ring when I put it back together.

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I was told that I can use one of my old lifters and just swap out the cap that the pushrod fits into since they are whats different......what do you guys think about that? I'd feel better using an old lt1 lifter instead

 

That works as well. I keep a couple of blocked lifters in my tool box just for checking cam lift, degreeing cams, and measuring pushrods. Be aware that, if you're checking for pushrod length or cam lift, you need to make sure that the distance from the seating surface of the pushrod to the bottom of the roller where it contacts the cam, can vary from one set of lifters to another. I've seen as much as .100" difference. That affects the geometry as well as the lift of the camshaft as measured at the retainer.

 

ok them im just going to taek the cap out off the ls7 lifter and put it in the lt1 lifter, then just make it solid.......I just dont feel safe tearing apart a new lifter, then it's on to checking to see if i need longer pushrods.