Would this set up be worth it?
Would this set up be worth it?
I am wanting to do a 355 buildup with a vortec blower. I'm thinking about a forged rotating assembly, heads & cam, lower the compression, and then slapping a T-trim on it. Would this setup be very streetable and is there anything else that I would need to do?
Very streetable? In "my" eyes of the defintion of streetable, it wouldnt be considered "very streetable"...but thats me...
i guess a blower, 355, heads/cam etc etc will definetly lessen the streetableness granted it will be streetable..
Its one hell of a setup no doubt about that...good luck!
i guess a blower, 355, heads/cam etc etc will definetly lessen the streetableness granted it will be streetable..
Its one hell of a setup no doubt about that...good luck!
Re: Would this set up be worth it?
Originally posted by YellowT/A
is there anything else that I would need to do?
is there anything else that I would need to do?
Yor rear end and trans are probably gonna go pretty quick once you put that kinda power through them.
I recommend these parts
Since your doing a blower specifically, its a good idea to do forged internals, but you might as well have it punched to 383, to get more cubes, there isnt much more cost. To be honestly.
I recommend though various engine builders whom I consulted for my 383 project.
Callies Dragon Slayer 4340 Chromeoly Steel Crank
Eagle H-beam or Scat rods
JE blower pistons 16 CC dish or more, NOT the SRP, if you were mostly N/A I would recommend SRP.
GET AFR heads, get the largest CC chamber. So it lowers your Compression ratio.
LT4 hotcam is near blower specs and will pass emissions, or get a custom grind.
Uprgrade of fuel injectors (30lbs), Fuel Pump, MSD BTM ignition.
PCMforless tuning
ALL the nesscary bolt ons such as TB, MAF, 1.6RR (with cam), Headers.
It will be streetable and fast, jsut take your time. Also your rear and suspension WILL need upgrading to enjoy a full throttle HOOK, and book.
I recommend though various engine builders whom I consulted for my 383 project.
Callies Dragon Slayer 4340 Chromeoly Steel Crank
Eagle H-beam or Scat rods
JE blower pistons 16 CC dish or more, NOT the SRP, if you were mostly N/A I would recommend SRP.
GET AFR heads, get the largest CC chamber. So it lowers your Compression ratio.
LT4 hotcam is near blower specs and will pass emissions, or get a custom grind.
Uprgrade of fuel injectors (30lbs), Fuel Pump, MSD BTM ignition.
PCMforless tuning
ALL the nesscary bolt ons such as TB, MAF, 1.6RR (with cam), Headers.
It will be streetable and fast, jsut take your time. Also your rear and suspension WILL need upgrading to enjoy a full throttle HOOK, and book.
YellowT/A, I have the exact setup you're looking at. 355, T-trim, 8.9:1 cr, ported AFR 195's and a blower cam. It's perfectly streetable in my opinion, except for in inclimate weather where traction becomes a BIG problem.
It basically feels like a strong running stock car until you bring the revs up and stomp on it.
edit: Oh, and as far as things to add to the list... a 12 bolt rearend is right at the top of that, along with some good suspension parts to let you hook. My car also has a Griffin aluminum radiator, and some other little extras like a MSD 6BTM, 50lb injectors, dual exhaust, etc. etc.. And don't forget to top it off with a good DYNO tune, a mail-order one probably won't do very well for this application (not from my experience anyways).
It basically feels like a strong running stock car until you bring the revs up and stomp on it.edit: Oh, and as far as things to add to the list... a 12 bolt rearend is right at the top of that, along with some good suspension parts to let you hook. My car also has a Griffin aluminum radiator, and some other little extras like a MSD 6BTM, 50lb injectors, dual exhaust, etc. etc.. And don't forget to top it off with a good DYNO tune, a mail-order one probably won't do very well for this application (not from my experience anyways).
Last edited by Birdie2000; Feb 19, 2003 at 06:26 PM.
If you run the right fuel and your car is tuned properly than it is very streetable. The only things I would recommend is getting a forged bottom end, heads ported, Hooker Long tubes, proper fuel system, 12-bolt, torque arm, driveshaft, LCA's and other suspension stuff. IMHO there is no need to go with an aftermarket cooling system. The stock radiator and fans are plenty.
Yes, proper fuel system is a must. We spent a good amount of trial and error with that part of my car. As far as the radiator, the previous owner did that, I have no idea why. Probably just for the "coolness" factor.
Originally posted by Birdie2000
Yes, proper fuel system is a must. We spent a good amount of trial and error with that part of my car. As far as the radiator, the previous owner did that, I have no idea why. Probably just for the "coolness" factor.
Yes, proper fuel system is a must. We spent a good amount of trial and error with that part of my car. As far as the radiator, the previous owner did that, I have no idea why. Probably just for the "coolness" factor.
HOw many fans are you running with your Griffin? The reason I ask is because I am currently running a Be Cool Radiator and all I can seem to fit is 1 - 16in Spal Fan. If you have any pics that would be great.
Originally posted by IDOXLR8
HOw many fans are you running with your Griffin? The reason I ask is because I am currently running a Be Cool Radiator and all I can seem to fit is 1 - 16in Spal Fan. If you have any pics that would be great.
HOw many fans are you running with your Griffin? The reason I ask is because I am currently running a Be Cool Radiator and all I can seem to fit is 1 - 16in Spal Fan. If you have any pics that would be great.
Originally posted by Smoke T/A
I used to have a griffin radiatior and it had mounting brackets for the stock fans and shroud. The only down side i couldn't get the cover up top to fit anymore and really didn't feel like hacking it up so i just left it off. Other wise I could not tell a cooling diffrence between the stock and the aftermarked rad.
I used to have a griffin radiatior and it had mounting brackets for the stock fans and shroud. The only down side i couldn't get the cover up top to fit anymore and really didn't feel like hacking it up so i just left it off. Other wise I could not tell a cooling diffrence between the stock and the aftermarked rad.
Originally posted by IDOXLR8
The problem is that I am running a blower setup on my car and there is no way in hell that I can get the stock fans in.
The problem is that I am running a blower setup on my car and there is no way in hell that I can get the stock fans in.
Well take the blower off J/K. Dunno I don't have any idea then?
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