Or does it hurt the resale? Would it be better to put a hyd roller in or go for the big power. So...I think the question is would someone be more likely to buy a lower HP hyd. roller or would a higher hp solid roller motor be somehting people wouldn't be afraid of?

 

Your not selling are you?. I think people would rather have the lower hp hydraulic over the big SR. Some people just dont want to deal with the maintenance.

 

Not selling my car. I picked up a nice car that I'm gonna do a rebuild on and sell it. It has a fairly large Hyd. roller in it now but would probably scare people off in itself. I also have my old solid roller cam that went 10.3@ 132 in my car laying around and thought about just throwing it in. This car would fly with that cam and still be very streetable.

 

looking for some other views for this...what would be more apealing...go for the power/et or go for the appeal to the masses with less power.

 

i think some of the hesitation some people have about going solid roller is not knowing enough about the maintenance of it.

my limited understanding is that you have to check/adjust the valves regularly?
is that once a week/month/year ? how hard is that to do?

a lot of people just go by what they hear from other people "solid rollers require alot of maintenance and arent really for the street" or something like that.

if you had the opportunity to educate the person about it they might be more receptive to solid roller.

id say theres probably a larger % of buyers who would trade off a little top-end power in order to get easier maintenance, than there are people who want every little last bit of power possible, but i might be wrong.

 

its alot of misconception out there. Checking the valves is easy and they would need checking at 5000 miles...then you could go 7000-10000 between checking if you adjust them right. Of course this is after initial setup and readjust at about 1000 miles. I think your right though..most people don't want the hastle...its just the racer coming out in me as I go for max hp all the time and will put up with alittle extra hastle to get it.

 

I agree with got_hp.

 

1000, then 5000, then 10k is what i've heard in the past. considering it takes all of 30 minutes to pull the valve covers on a bone stock (emissions **** in the way) LT1, it's not a huge hassle at all. I'd do it

especially considering a car like that would probably only be driven on weekends or something (at least mine is and will continue to be) and racking up 5000 miles takes a LONG time.

 

that does sound like a quite a bit of maintenance to the regular person, who probably makes a fuss just about changing their own oil every 5k or so, so it would probably scare them away.

find a person who is a racer at heart and they will be fine with it, but remember that is a very small percent of the population, and usually those guys like to build their own anyway.

 

it depends on if you're going to take the time to sort the car out and make it as quick as it should be. if it runs the number and you sell to a guy who is an experienced enthusiast i see no issue and in that case it'll be worth more. if you just wanna sell it to the avg joe just put a mild hydro cam in it (230ish @ .050") and call it a day.

my personal vote though put the solid roller in it and dont look back, somebody will want it. and if they're apprehensive about it run them through lashing it and show em its no big deal if they're serious about buying it.

 

A true gearhead should not care about adjusting the valves every so often. I adjust my valves (hydraulic lifters no less) once or twice a year anyways.

 

Tim, is this steve's car your talking about? i would put your old cam in it and see how it runs. i don't think people will be scared to buy it when they see how it runs. brian

 

(like mentioned)There's a pretty HUGE misconception out there about valve adjustment intervals with solid Cam & Lifters set-ups.......A big part of this comes from the performance cars in the 60's and 70's that came with solid cam & lifter set-ups from the factory(and even what the aftermarket provided at that time)........back then they diddn't use the polly-lock locking set-up that we now commonly use today........and as a result the lash would loosen up quite frequently......but running a solid set-up with todays polly locks, there is hardley any maintenence, and things just don't loosen up to any extent unless you have something going wrong......For Example: my Last Mustang (that was daily driven) had a solid roller Windsor stroker engine that was shifted at 7800 RPM's and ran low 10's (naturally aspirated).........I ran the **** out of this motor for just under 60,000 miles (before I sold the car) and NEVER had any of the valves lashes change more than 1-2 thousanths(which is nothing) during the 8-10 thousand mile intervals that the valvetrain was checked and adjusted........but, yea, I think many "regular" guys would be scared to buy a car with solid stuff just cause of what they might have heard..........Joe

 

Amen and amen. Solid Roller Stroker Street Motor FTMFW!

 

You should just sell me your old cam After I get the max et from my current cam, I'm going SR. There is alot of bad info out there on SR's, like the other guy said mostly coming from 30-40 years ago.