That's where I was wrong at first you are not grounding these wires at all. You can't ground them together because the AIR wire is a ground wire and the Fuel Pump is a HOT wire. You wouldn't be grounding but making a short circuit. Those sound like the correct wires though Tie 'em together but remember to remove the pin from the PCM on the AIR side.

You MUST pull that pin. As I said earlier, one is a ground and the other is hot. If you splice them together without removing the pin then you create a short circuit as the fuel pump power will ground right back through the PCM on the AIR pin. You could even fry the PCM if you don't remove that pin!

You are correct. Both of those wires are "+" One wire is for the AIR pump and the second is to power the internal solenoid for the valve. I tied both wires together onto the CSI's blue "+" side.

No problem Don't forget to run one side of the relay to ground! What you are doing is reversing the polarity here. Instead of power going to the relay and then to the PCM (ground), it's now going from PCM to relay to ground. If you look at the schematics for the underhood fuse box I think you'll see what I mean, both "+" terminals on the relay are on the same power source, you need to move the one to a ground.

Also the PCM checks for the AIR pump by looking for voltage at AIR pin. Since you have removed that it will set a code unless you reprogram the PCM. You could also run a 12 volt source with a resistor tied in to the pin to fool it. The wisest would be to run another wire from the relay to the that pin so that if the fuse blows it will light the SES and you'll know the pump isn't working.

Does this make sense????



[This message has been edited by Buttercup (edited August 16, 2002).]

 

Oh I see what you mean now, about the AIR pump relay. It will need a ground since I'm not grounding it to the PCM anymore, and instead getting power from it. One side of the relay has 2 prongs, and both go to the fused 12V... ground the one that isn't switched, the one opposite of the PCM wire. The other 12V terminal is opposite of the power to the AIR pump, I'd want to keep that one the way it is, correct?

I'm guessing I could use that 3rd orange wire with a resistor to go back to the PCM for the AIR pump pin, so it will get rid of the SES light and show if the fuse blows? Any certain resistor to use?

So I'll have from the relay:

-Wire going to fuse/12V

-Switch the other fuse/12V wire to a ground

-PCM signal wire to be spliced into the fuel pump PCM wire

-Red wire to power the pump
-Orange wire with a resistor to the PCM

 

You are correct grasshopper

You're just simply reversing the power. It used to go battery->relay->PCM and now it's going PCM->relay->ground When you splice the wires at the PCM you've provided power to the relay but at the relay you need to go to a ground instead of the battery.

As far as running the "check" voltage back to the PCM, I think you'll have to do it before the relay and after the fuse (this is how it's wired correct?) If you run it from the pump it will throw a code when the ignition is switched to "ON" but the engine (and fuel pump) isn't running. There has to be voltage present on that pin whenever the ignition is in the "ON" position. You'll have to measure the resistance of the relay to find an appropriate resistor. Without the resistor the PCM will ground that wire as it normally would for the AIR pump and you'll have a short circuit. I haven't done this last step yet, I cheated and turned the code off to make sure everything works before putting that wire in Someone else actually came up with the last step, which also makes it possible for people without LT1_Edit or Tunercat to wire this way. I would like the check engine light to come on when the fuse blows but for now I keep an eye on the temp gauge.

 

Thanks again. Wiring up the resistor and wire to the PCM before the relay and after the fuse isn't a problem, but I thought that could be a use for that extra orange wire... but its after the relay.

 

Just run both red and orange wires to the blue CSI wire. You can't have too much wire going to the pump, it sucks a bit of juice

 

Well, it works great. I used a 100 ohm 10 watt resistor from Radio Shack... They come in a pack of 2 for $1.69 or something... PN# 271-135. I also got some wire. Thats it.

When I spliced into the dark green/white wire (pin 7 on the RED PCM connector I think...) with the brown wire (pin 14 on the red connector I think...) I left the brown wire in the PCM and then extended it, with more wire, over to the fuse box, added that resistor... Meanwhile, I chopped the jumpered hot wire (#86 on the relay) in half, and connected one end to my resistor. The other end of the #86 wire, coming from the relay, I grounded.

I do have pics if anyone else wants to do this, but my camera croaked, so I may never have them. It was very easy though.

Thanks again.

 

I think the safest idead is the relay option mentioned earlier. Tapping a fuse can and will work, but you're asking for trouble. I'd call that the lazy approach which I took many times in my youth when I was into the car stereo stuff. I burned a lot of wires, had problems I couldn't trace, etc. When you get into relays, it's really really simple and you'll wonder why you didn't do it that way all along.

I'll be doing the CSI when I do my heads/cam in the next six months.

------------------
96z28, M6, B&M Ripper, KBDD SFC's, moroso CAI, borla catback, 1le driveshaft (free from dealer), 1le elbow, 1le front sway bar, SLP level 1 suspension, strange 12bolt w 4.10(future growth), C5 Z06 brake conversion,

Planning:
LT4 heads/intake
LT4 hot cam?
FLP headers or AS&M w/Random Tech (need emissions)
maybe just maybe a blower (if I can find one used and cheap)

 

Um, I agree. Both him and I are using a relay. We are using the relay and wiring that was used for the airpump, which is now gone. Since the CSI only draws 5.8 amps during normal use this shouldn't be a problem. As an added benefit the SES light will light up if the fuse goes dead for the CSI, no extra wiring for lights, etc. You also don't have to buy extra relays, etc. The only extra electronics needed are a lower rated fuse (the AIR system uses 20, CSI recommends a 15), a bit of wire to run a new ground and also a signal wire, and also a resistor. It's pretty simple once you understand the wiring change, and why you're doing it.

This is THE way to wire up the CSI Glad to hear it's working Stevil!

 

Ok, I really like the idea of using the air pump electrical to power the waterpump. Really clean installation, I was planning on adding another relay in my open ASR spot.

Currently in the middle of the install, down to the wiring.

Anyone splice into the injector circuit to control the relay??
Can I just cut the relay control wires for the air pump circuit and use 3m tap connectors to piggy-back them to the injector relay control wires?

I'll tunercat out the fault codes....

 

http://ken.lowrance.com/Projects/CSI...mp/Default.htm

I used that when i did my CSI install. No problems at all and it works like a charm.

 

back from the dead, this thread helped so much! I wired the entire EWP into the cars electrical system without adding a fuse or relay. I used the entire AIR circuit.
thanks buttercup!