Ok I have read just about every thread there is on this site and still can't figure this out. 1995 LT1 camaro with forged 383 stroker (12.5:1 compression) done by golenengineservice.com. I have approx 1100 miles on the new setup and am now on my 3rd opti, which is the new one from MSD for $500.

Symptoms: The car is really hard to start just about everytime I try. Sometimes, however, it seems like it starts before I even turn the key, but most of the time it turns over for a good 3-5 seconds, I try pumping the gas, it starts to make good noises like it wants to start and finally it starts within 10 seconds. Now that she is started the throttle response is just not there. I rev it and I can definitely tell it is bogging/hesitating/etc. It sputters real bad in any gear under 2000 rpms. when I am accelerating and hit the 2000rpm mark its like the car catches it breath and seems like the power is finally there until I hit about 4000 rpm and I get a serious misfire/miss/complete loss of power. THe car doesn't shut off it just misses real bad and then runs real rough for next minute or so and then it just goes back to that constant minor sputtering.

I have been to two shops (southeast michigan) to try and figure out what the "Service engine soon" light is for but nobody can get a reading. I don't know if they just dont have the right scanner. So my first question is where can I get a scanner or even better yet, some software that will tell me the trouble codes and possbily also use this software to tune my car. Bryan at PCMforless tuned the car by the way.

I have new O2 sensors, new TPS, new MSD opti, new plugs, new AIC valve. I just bought a new coil and coil wire just for shat and giggles. THe fuel pressure is about at 45 and holds steady KOEO position. I read something about the opti going on backwards in one of these message boards, something about the "pintle" or "splined shaft" not being lined up correctly. I guess there is two ways that the opti clicks into place??? I just lined up the dowel pin and put that lined up with the overlarged hole on the opti itself and the opti just fell into place. Is that wrong?

I noticed the spark plug wires on cylinder 8 and 6 have slightly been melted (the outer coating has been melted off), I am putting on new wires as we speak since I just found this out. This will be the 3rd set of plugs I have put in since the new motor. Is there a specific gap you guys use (I have NGKTR55 gapped at .050).

Mainly how or who can figure out what codes my car is throwing so I can at least be pointed in the right direction. I will buy the damn scanner if you have a part number of one that you know will work for my 1995 OBD1 computer.

Chad @ Golen Engine Service has been trying to trouble shoot with me but he keeps saying "opti, opti, opti.." and this is my third and final opti. When I replaced the opti with the MSD opti yesterday the sputtering while at a constant speed was the exact same. When I floor it it accelerates great until I get into higher RPM's and then BAM the entire car misses and I have to push in the clutch until the car catches itself and then just runs like crap.

All thoughts/comments are greatly appreciated and the paypal reward is not a joke

Steiger99@hotmail.com

 

I am thinking the following.
Severe vaccum leak (maybe a stuck open EGR valve)
Damaged or incorrectly installed plug wires
Check the IAC motor

Gap the plugs at .050"

I certainly hope that golen installed the timing chain correctly.

If you have a laptop, download TTS datamaster and retrieve your codes.

 

Check your underhood fuses. A sensor has failed somewhere or you wouldnt have a code. My car acted the exact same way when the MAF died.

 

Sounds like advanced timing, if I had to make a guess.

 

Make sure the thing is splined right.
.035 plug gap makes it easier on the opti.
It is not unusual for a performance engine to take a second or two to fire when cold.
Your FPR may be causing it along with your injectors may be leaking.Verify the FP by taping a gage to the windshield and see where it stands at WOT.

 

Are the new optis working OK for any amount of time? If so I would worry about pin length. A while ago Comp had a batch of cams go out with long pins that caused a lot of problems and I believe Golen uses Comp.
If the new optis performed as you describe right from day one then this would not be a concern but if they start good and then degrade check an old one to see if there was forward thrust and wear.

 

Sorry to say, but I kinda agree with 96capricemgr. Without being there, it sounds like the motor has too many problems to just be a bad opti/spark problem. It does sound like there a problem with the cam. Either defective, or improperly installed.

 

It's really difficult to guess at possible causes because so many things can be the culprit. The best bet is to get a copy of a data logging and code reading software. I like Data MasterEE for my 95 F body. You can drive the car while it records about every sensor on the engine, then play it back later and you can look for any weird readings or codes. It is good for emailing to others so they can give it a look too. Software and connection cable for data link and laptop should come in under 100 bucks. In fact it may have a built in dyno feature too, but I haven't tried it yet.

 

run your 6 and 8 over the valve cover. I'll take some pics if you'd like, and show you how I did mine. Also check your number 7 plug wire, as it's prone to burning also. And I would almost bet your fuel pump is bad. Check your fuel pressure or have somebody check it for you. I JUST went through the exact same thing you're going through.

As for pulling codes, you need to buy a regular OBD1 code scanner, and adapt it to work with your OBD2 style plug-in. Not sure why they used an OBD2 plug on an OBD1 car, but anyway, shoebox has a picture on his website of how to adapt it. Here's the link: http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg <---thank shoebox for this one...he's the man

I know on the older ones, all you have to do is run a fused jumper wire (I've used a paper clip before, but don't recommend it) between the two pins and turn the key on - the trouble codes will flash the SES light. flash = 1, flash-flash = 2, flash pause flash-flash = 12 (code 12 lets you know that the On Board Diagnostics is operational), flash-flash pause flash-flash = 22, etc. Pretty simple but I'm not sure if this will work on the 95 ECM, though I don't see why it wouldn't. You might try running a FUSED jumper between the two pins shoebox has pointed out in his picture. Turn the key on and listen for the cooling fans. If they kick on, everything is good. If not, go buy a scanner.

Hope you get it figured out; I know how aggrevating this stuff can be.

 

Some specs on the engine would be nice as well. First off you need to get the plug gap a little tighter (somebody stated .035, and thats a good place to start depending on camshaft size). Assuming you have a larger camshaft. Secondly make sure all the wires are good. I would run them all over the valve cover (once again assuming you have headers). Since this is a new engine are you sure all the engine grounds are connected properly? If your running a stock pump then you need to check the fp while driving under a load. Mine was fine with the key on car off, but as soon as you got it on the street it fell off rapidly. Caused a topend misfire (kinda like it was stalling), and ran like crap. If all this checks out then I would start looking into sensors. You might unplug the maf and then start the car to see if it runs/acts any different. Then maybe start it with the maf connected and while its running unplug it to see what happens. Are you running o2's? When you start the car is the idle all over the place (surging, dieing maybe?). That would point to a possible vaccum leak. A regular hand held snap-on scanner will tell you alot with your car. It will read trouble codes and give possible problems to them as well (at least mine does). I also agree with the other responses there is no reason that the opti's should be dieing this fast. On the other hand I doubt a mis installed camshaft or timing chain would cause an opti to go out (unless the problem was with the dowel pin like stated earlier). What did the plugs look like when you took them out? As in what color, and did they have any kind of smell to them (like gas, or oil).

 

go to akmcables to order a cable ( yo wand the obd1 with the obd2 end. and then to tts powersports to order Datamaster and log the engine. Datamaster will show any codes that come up plus you will see what the engine is doing.

http://www.akmcables.com/ (for cable)
http://www.ttspowersystems.com/ (for Datamaster)

 

'93 is the last year the codes can be flashed. You'll need an OBDI code reader, or scan tool, or the proper cable and software to use a pc/laptop.

 

1) Give it a thorough visual inspection: hoses intact and secure (vacuum leak), Plug wires (burned, arcing..."light show at night")
2) Get a scanner (Autotap or other) and look for misfires.
3) Review the history of mods. Typically, the most recent mod is the problem.
4) As mentioned earlier, you probably have more than one issue that is confusing the symptom-problem analysis. Try to identify one symptom and pursue it. Search the most repeatable symptom first and try to identify the source(s). Don't work on the high-RPM problem first.
5) Optis are junk, but they don't fail as often as seem indicated with your problem.
6) Of course, the engine builder could have completely blown the install and is dancing around his culpability. Good Luck on that issue.
7) What kind of sounds are emanating? Does the engine shake and vibrate?

If you are having misfires, you could have a problem in either fuel, ignition or mechanical (valve train). Eliminate each problem in your analysis. But you should be able to see which cylinder it is coming from with a scanner.

 

have you refilled the gas tank since all your work was done. Is there a possibility of water being in your gas tank.

 

Timing chain off by a tooth or slack in the chain.

But check for vacuum leaks first.