238/242 .555/.563 113 LSA. Stock headed 350 lt1. Mods in my sig. I can get it for a good price. Is this to much cam for a stock headed car?

 

Short answer, yes. That is a lot a cam also for stock cubes. I would look at another cam.

 

id take a look at some advanced induction grinds for stock headed cars, take a look at their site. www.advancedinduction.com

 

+1 on the yes. Too much for stock cubes. Especially too much for stock heads.

Its just too big.

 

Ok now I live in colorado with da's right around 8500 will this play a part in cam selection? And what do you think this cam will need to be reved to see its potential? Also I plan on having the heds ported in the future.

 

It's big, but I wouldnt sweat running it on a stock headed car. You've got the converter and gear for a higher RPM car why not use it? Slap heads on later and that thing should fly. No use in changing cams all the time, like many do who start small.

-Dustin-

 

That cam will peak way past the "safe" range for a stock shortblock, and without well ported heads there will be nothing under the curve.

The gears and stall will help a ton, but without heads you are killing yourself.

 

go for it. im putting a 242/250 on a stock headed LT1 but I have some bottom end work done. dont let everyone fool you in to thinking a 22x duration cam is always the right cam for stock heads. GM847s and cc306s were producing good results years ago before this "smaller is better" fad came about. Car setup is what matters most.

 

I'd get it and put it in. when u port the heads u will really feel the diffrence. I think it would work good on stock cubes and heads for now. i'd make sure to build the bottom to go with the top though.

 

They were also used on strip cars with 4400 stalls, drag suspension, and spooled 4.10 rears. Most people knew that the engine would not last long spinning where that combo needed to be as well.

Now that a lot of the younger crowd are the ones modding LT1s, people throw a huge cam in a stock cube daily driver and then are scared to spin it to 6700+(for good reason), refuse to run the huge stall or drag suspension, and then they end up with cars that are little more then nice sounding cars at idle that are only really quick from a ricer roll.

The examples you used are very antiquated. Modern lobe technology cams can produce more peak power, more area under the curve, much more drivability, and run better times while using less duration for a street car without the need for crazy high stalls and gearing. Look at what AI's "baby cams" are doing compared to the older cam tech while using significantly less duration. The comparison info and duration/lift/LSA numbers are all available and compared to the "older" tech that they are meant to replace.

Of course cam choice is like opinions and *** holes, so to each his own .

 

Well I dont have 4.10's anymore I have 342's will this cam work?

 

it may put the Engine under a lot of stress with that high of a gear. I may be wrong though. Ur stall should help compensate for the engine stress though.

 

it will feel slower with the 3.42's. The 4.10s really wake things up.

I would go for something smaller for the cam, but hey, thats just me

Its your car, your motor.

 

its also a SCHNEIDER billet custom grind.

 

A guy on LS1 tech tried the XFI 292 cam which is 242 on the intake, reved it to 7000rpms and it still had not peaked. Seeing as osty of us agree we should keep stock shortblocks below 6500 and that you need to rev a few hundred rpms beyond peak to keep the car in the effective powerband you should aim for a peak no higher than 62-6300rpms.

Start talking about a 355 that can handle more rpm or more displacement to tame more cam and things change, but for a truely stock shortblock it is prudent to stay below 230degrees intake to keep the rpms down.