Besides changing out timing chains, I still don't understand why I would need to remove the water pump gear when installing the electric water pump. Aren't you just making it more difficult. If the water pump gear no longer has to push that water around and it can move freely isn't that good enough to gain those few horses. Removing the gear can't possible net you more than .025 horses could it? Is there really any benefit in removing the gear besides for installing a different timing chain?

 

It's the source for an oil leak.

 

I have a new oil ring on it that might have 5000mi. Why would it start leaking more if not hooked to the waterpump? Not being a butt just wonding. Thanks for the reply by the way.

 

The water pump shaft, without a mechanical water pump installed, will not run stable and good lead to to leaks or even worse, carnage. The mechanical water pump provides the second point of support when attached. The first point of support is the bearing installed in the block.

 

What he said^^ After removing the water pump, the shaft is only supported on one end and the gear that engages the cam gear isn't supported by the water pump any longer so it might be OK or it might not. Some guys have left it in and done alright, but I wouldn't take that chance.

 

What would cutting the shaft off do? What I'm thinking is shortening/cutting the shaft off would take stress off. To hard to explain my reasoning.

 

If you are going to the trouble of cutting off a shaft, I would put the extra effort into getting rid of it altogether.

 

Sorry, this isn't true. I replaced my standard pump with an electric one and ran it like that for a couple of years without any issue what so ever. The stub shaft is well supported by the bearing and doesn't wobble around as you might expect.

I finally did remove the wp drive mechanism when I installed the new cam and opti setup and wanted a double roller.

Bottom line,in my opinion, there is no need whatsoever to remove that water pump drive to run an electric water pump.

 

Wow, I guess I offended you without trying...my apologies. I did, in fact, put a dial indicator on the drive shaft when reassembling the front of my engine. The total indicated run out was less than .0015". That's not good enough for the space shuttle to be sure but it 's good enough to run without causing a leak for a number of years...many high rpm run and a lot of daily driving.

I'll take for granted that you know what you're talking about and that you and your colleagues 75 years of experience is worthwhile. However, why would you chose to ignore real world examples? Do we not learn from observation?

Anyway, case closed, I'm wrong and Mr. WRD1972 is correct. DJM_22, you'd be well advised to take his advice and ignore my experience.....

 

So how did you determine that your shaft does not have any runout or wobble. Did you mount up a dial indicator and get a reading or did you just finger it. Even if it were rather tight, it is going to loosen as a result of imbalance and vibration in due time because of what I already stated and what I will better clarify below.

Any drive shaft with a gear in the middle of the two OEM support points (assuming the shaft is being driven by another gear) MUST be supported on each end or there will be a certain amount of jitter (wobble) in the shaft. This will lead to the backlash between the two gears to constantly change at different RPM's as well lead to the bearing to loosen up and wear.

Everyone knows that if you hold a sealed race bearing in your hand, then slide a perfectly fitted shaft into the ID of said bearing, you can wobble the inner race in all directions just a tiny bit even if it is brand new. Add high RPM's and loads to the equation and eventually something is going to give.

Another way of saying it. The WP drive shaft will NEVER track absolutely true (if only supported on one end by one bearing) and COULD eventually lead to leaks or carnage like what I said above.

Just because you choose to ignore basic mechanical engineering fundamentals, and have not yet been bit in the ***, does not make your statement correct. I make my living designing, critiquing, testing and manufacturing electro mechanical products that are much more complicated than a water pump drive shaft, therefore I am exposed to things like this on a daily basis. I also just consulted three mechanical engineers with over 75 years experience who completely backed up my statement.

I dont run an electric pump but if I did, I would remove the stub for the reasons I have illustrated.

But if you want to spin a metal shaft at high RPM with only one support point then be my guest. If you want to drive a non-stable (random orbital) gear off of a stable gear (fixed orbital) then be my guest.


To the OP:
I would advise you to remove the stub and respectfully ignore BW_Hunter's opinion which is based off of nothing other than "it ain't broke yet". For him to even further stand on that statement, when the shaft in question is no longer even installed in his motor should be considered as well.

Simply put. The shaft, gear or bearing can not fail if as a result of it being halfway installed if its not there to begin with.

 

I never removed my wp drive from the block and everything was fine. Daily drove it for years without issue. Taking out that bearing is a real PITA too, I took it out for another engine I built and will never do it again. Besides, what happens if your elec. w/p fails and you need to grab a spare mech. w/p to get you by until you can get a new pump? You're screwed without the drive and there really is no reason to take it out.

 

We took it out and I don't remember it being all that hard. We took it out for the weight savings.

 

IMHO the bearing easily comes out with a brass punch and a hammer by knocking it out from under where the intake goes. Takes seconds to do. Putting it back in is not difficult either.

 

So you took your intake off just to install an electric water pump?

My shaft and bearings are still intact. I have many miles on my shaft and bearings and it has not caused any carnage on my car, just something else

 

I did not say that. And as stated above I do not use an electric water pump. But IF I did, yes I would pull the intake and timing cover to remove the water pump shaft in the interest of doing it right, reducing the possibility of failuire from the pump shaft, gear or beaing being only half way installed correctly.