I was wondering where I can buy these, which brand is the best and how much they cost. Thank you.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...t=ptp-7-508-bl

 

what's the advantage to having those over the stock ones?

 

well, the stock ones with age/miles will sag. putting the eng. out of position compared to where its "supposed" to be. as in, headers will hit frames, move around when driving, and causing vibrations to transmit into the chassis in the worst case scenario. however, the poly mounts will transmit a little more eng. vibrations at all times. its not really bad, and you may not even be able to tell the diff.. but the poly mounts will keep the eng. firmly in place at all times.
chris

 

Hm sounds like I should replace mine this summer along with headers then, is the install pretty easy?

 

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...635+&x=22&y=14

just get those

 

Can you order them individually? I just want a driver's side mount to keep it from rocking because of the torque and my headers hitting the crossmember.

 

I used energy suspension motor mounts on both sides from Jeg's. No added vibrations at all.

 

How hard is it to do motor mounts? Mine have 100k miles, they look like they are OK but they look mushed and I am trying to locate the source of a clunk that happens when I make right turns. I assume you can just undo the bolt(s), jack up the engine and put one in but I know it can't be that simple

 

It's pretty simple to install them. I put poly ones in last January and didn't know any more vibrations, then I switched to solids after about 1,000 miles (with 800 miles of it being on the highway driving from Illinois to Florida). The solid ones on my car cause vibrations just below idle (when letting the clutch out) and around 2,400 rpm, but I got used to it. The solid one's are even easier than the poly ones to install since they are smaller.

A tip, when you install the poly one's get all the bolts started but don't tighten ANYTHING until everything is started. I put the passenger side on first and tightened it up, then had to loosen all the bolts because I couldn't get the driver side bolt lined up.

When I did the solid mounts I was in Florida and I had to do them in the auto hobby shop of an Air Force Base. I had two hours before they closed, the headers were hot from driving over there, but I barely got everything tightened up in time before they closed. I was getting worried near the end that I would have to leave my car there and finish in the morning. I much prefer working in my own garage where I have my own tools and all the time I need.

 

with manifolds in place the mounts are a pita to get out. the bolts are awkward to get to, the mounts are large and hard to maneuver out of the tight spot, and then getting them back in is just as difficult.

took me 10hrs on my back in the driveway alone.

with longtubes i think it is impossible to get to

i had NO noticable vibration from mine. and the engine barely moves 1/4" now when reved up. some of my exhaust Ypipe is less than 1/2" from my frame and it NEVER hits even under hard launches