When checking fuses, does the battery need to be disconnected?
#1
When checking fuses, does the battery need to be disconnected?
I'm a real novice at car repair, but my driver-side window in my '95 Z28 isn't working. I have the Haynes manual, however I'd like to doublecheck...
Do I need to remove the battery at the negative terminal if I am going to be checking the fuses? And what about my antitheft radio? Where do I find the code to disable the lock-out? Any help would be appreciated.
Do I need to remove the battery at the negative terminal if I am going to be checking the fuses? And what about my antitheft radio? Where do I find the code to disable the lock-out? Any help would be appreciated.
#2
Re: When checking fuses, does the battery need to be disconnected?
No you do not need to disconnect the battery to check fuses. Just pull the fuse out and give it a visual, most of the time you can see that they are blown. But to really check them you need a multimeter and set it to Ohms or continuity check. Should read 0 Ohms. A direct short. Or you can check for voltage on both sides of the fuse. If the fuse is good you should be able to read voltage on both sides of the fuse, providing that the circuit is being used at the time of checking.
#3
Re: When checking fuses, does the battery need to be disconnected?
Great, thanks! Just for future reference, what about the antitheft radio? Does anyone know how to turn off the lock-out?
#4
Re: When checking fuses, does the battery need to be disconnected?
Originally Posted by Brangeta
Great, thanks! Just for future reference, what about the antitheft radio? Does anyone know how to turn off the lock-out?
#6
Re: When checking fuses, does the battery need to be disconnected?
Thanks for the help guys! Now... I just need to pick a time when I can park it in front of Autozone in case one is broken/useless and it is essential for something . I really don't want to have to walk haha.
#7
Re: When checking fuses, does the battery need to be disconnected?
No worries...if one is bad, you can just take one from another non-critical spot and replace it later. It's best to stick with the same rating, but in a pinch you can use a different one, preferably just slightly higher.
Chances are if your drivers side window isn't working, it's probably the switch...common problem on these cars, along with the motors, but that usually shows up by going really slow for awhile before it dies.
Chances are if your drivers side window isn't working, it's probably the switch...common problem on these cars, along with the motors, but that usually shows up by going really slow for awhile before it dies.
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