whats all needed for 396???
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 565
From: mt. holly, nc , usa
whats all needed for 396???
i have a 94 stock z. im fixing to build a 396 and was wondering what and where to buy it. i want a forged set up (crank,rods,pistons) and i have the cam and worked heads.thanksguys
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 587
From: Orlando, FL, USA
Anyone feel free to correct me as I'm not as seasoned in the stroker motor department as some people on here.
You'll need a 3.875" stroke, preferably one-piece rear-main seal (otherwise you'll have to use an adapter) crank. You can only get these in forged. Callies, Cola, maybe Ligenfelter, Scat, and several others have these. Most people go w/ a 6.000" rod though there are several choices in length. I-beams are cheaper and slightly lighter than comparable H-beams but H-beams can take more abuse. Any engine builder will recommend you convert the bottom end to 4-bolt (splayed) or use a 4-bolt vette block. cmotorsports and Nu-tek offer all the parts needed as well as assembled rotating assemblies, short-blocks, and long blocks. The block will need some serious clearancing (best left to a good machine shop) The oil pan will need to be ball-peen hammered a little for clearance. Also, be sure to tell your machinist and the cam company that you're building a 396 and what brand and type of rods you're using so that they can make sure there is no cam-rod clearance issues. Don't forget all the obvious stuff: gaskets, file-fit rings (preferably), ARP studs/bolts (preferably) upgrade your lifters, oil system, etc. You'll need programming (pcm4less). Don't forget the little $8 a pop "crush washers" that you have to order from GM that bolts the rear coolant crossover banjos to the rear of the heads. If you're gonna make over 450hp, get some bigger injectors. Don't even think about anything but SLPs or longtubes for headers unless your in a pinch for $$. If you don't have one already, get an LT4 Knock Module. Save yourself some time and replace the opti if its original or has over 75K miles on it. Same for the waterpump, but you might want to go w/ a Mezierre electric pump so that you can use a Cloyes true-roller timing set. You don't really need that unless you're running a pretty sizeable cam. Go ahead and change over to the vented-opti and corresponding timing cover. At the very least replace your stock motor mounts but you should probably get polys or solids.......I"m sure I missed stuff but that'll get you started.
You'll need a 3.875" stroke, preferably one-piece rear-main seal (otherwise you'll have to use an adapter) crank. You can only get these in forged. Callies, Cola, maybe Ligenfelter, Scat, and several others have these. Most people go w/ a 6.000" rod though there are several choices in length. I-beams are cheaper and slightly lighter than comparable H-beams but H-beams can take more abuse. Any engine builder will recommend you convert the bottom end to 4-bolt (splayed) or use a 4-bolt vette block. cmotorsports and Nu-tek offer all the parts needed as well as assembled rotating assemblies, short-blocks, and long blocks. The block will need some serious clearancing (best left to a good machine shop) The oil pan will need to be ball-peen hammered a little for clearance. Also, be sure to tell your machinist and the cam company that you're building a 396 and what brand and type of rods you're using so that they can make sure there is no cam-rod clearance issues. Don't forget all the obvious stuff: gaskets, file-fit rings (preferably), ARP studs/bolts (preferably) upgrade your lifters, oil system, etc. You'll need programming (pcm4less). Don't forget the little $8 a pop "crush washers" that you have to order from GM that bolts the rear coolant crossover banjos to the rear of the heads. If you're gonna make over 450hp, get some bigger injectors. Don't even think about anything but SLPs or longtubes for headers unless your in a pinch for $$. If you don't have one already, get an LT4 Knock Module. Save yourself some time and replace the opti if its original or has over 75K miles on it. Same for the waterpump, but you might want to go w/ a Mezierre electric pump so that you can use a Cloyes true-roller timing set. You don't really need that unless you're running a pretty sizeable cam. Go ahead and change over to the vented-opti and corresponding timing cover. At the very least replace your stock motor mounts but you should probably get polys or solids.......I"m sure I missed stuff but that'll get you started.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post