What suspension components do I need?
What suspension components do I need?
I'd like to stiffen up the car and lower it very slightly(at most to Pro-Kit levels)
So far I am definately getting some SFC's (Either BMR or DD), shocks(dont know which ones yet), springs, and a BMR adjustable Panhard bar.
Is there anything I need to maintain correct alignment with the lowered car? ie. relocation brackets? I am also considering LCA's, STB, and a Torque arm but dont know how beneficial they will be. I was originally going to get all the things listed above but this is exceeding my suspension budget, so I need to see what I can live without!
I dont want to impact my launch too negatively at the drag strip, but at the same time dont want a drag specific set-up- so I guess Im looking at a compromise.
Thanks for the help!
So far I am definately getting some SFC's (Either BMR or DD), shocks(dont know which ones yet), springs, and a BMR adjustable Panhard bar.
Is there anything I need to maintain correct alignment with the lowered car? ie. relocation brackets? I am also considering LCA's, STB, and a Torque arm but dont know how beneficial they will be. I was originally going to get all the things listed above but this is exceeding my suspension budget, so I need to see what I can live without!
I dont want to impact my launch too negatively at the drag strip, but at the same time dont want a drag specific set-up- so I guess Im looking at a compromise.
Thanks for the help!
SFC's are must, best mod you can do to the chassis. If you go with stiffer lowering springs, then for sure it will have some negative impact to 60-ft time. But for street car I guess it is more important to get rid of that 4x4 look. I would skip torque arm, STB and LCA's if you are on the budget. Get LCA reallocation brackets !
Compromise sucks,
Go one way or the other, or you will end up with a car that does nothing well.
I tried the mix and match approach, half straight line acceleration half cornering prowess and it never did work out.
So now my car is setup for the strip with skinnies up front and Nitto Drags out back and Eibach drag launch kit, I still have my Double Diamond subframes cause they are the best in my opinion.
STB is a good choice and a Gload brace if you are corner carving, SFCs are a must have.
You could prolly live without the Torque arm for now. Really only need adjustable one for drag racing or if you are road racing I would think it would help you coming out of the corners.
Go one way or the other, or you will end up with a car that does nothing well.
I tried the mix and match approach, half straight line acceleration half cornering prowess and it never did work out.
So now my car is setup for the strip with skinnies up front and Nitto Drags out back and Eibach drag launch kit, I still have my Double Diamond subframes cause they are the best in my opinion.
STB is a good choice and a Gload brace if you are corner carving, SFCs are a must have.
You could prolly live without the Torque arm for now. Really only need adjustable one for drag racing or if you are road racing I would think it would help you coming out of the corners.
I will be better able to comment in two weeks. I had the pro-kit springs and Bilstein shocks installed this winter. I hooked great with street tires and 2.73 rear. I changed to drag radials and ran a little faster. I changed to a 3.73 rear gear and spin quite a bit. I am adding the LCA relocation brackets next week. You can get the stock panhard and LCA's boxed like I did. A local welder just welded a steel plate on the top of each piece. They are all kind of U shaped stock. I have not added SFC's yet but may do this next. I changed my TA for the new Spohn one but do not adjust when at the track and so do not really benefit from this. It is quite a hassle to adjust unless you have a very well equipped garage.
I love the car on the street. Curves that in another car I would be lightly braking at 45 I coast through at 60.
I was uncertain about compromise as well and have seen the result. If I had it to do over I would have gotten the QA1 shocks.
I love the car on the street. Curves that in another car I would be lightly braking at 45 I coast through at 60.
I was uncertain about compromise as well and have seen the result. If I had it to do over I would have gotten the QA1 shocks.
DON"T skimp on the shocks. I had a Pro Kit put on with sub par shocks, and now I am needing to have new shocks put on and all the work/alignment redone. I've ordered the revalved Bilsteins from Sam Strano up in Brookville. If you have any questions on suspension, DEFINITELY give Sam a call. I was on the phone 3X's for 15 minutes or more with questions, and Sam Sr. answered everything without trying to sell me anything. Needless to say, they have a sale going on for all 4 Bilsteins for $349.00??I think? I went ahead and got both fronts revalved for 75$ each. Do a search for Strano, I think his website is Stranoparts.com. Where in Lancaster? I'm in Harrisburg, and need some work done. You got the tools, I got the beer. Just kidding.
As to what revtime says about compromise sucking, there is definitely some truth to that. Depending on what you are planning on doing with your car will determine which components are best for your preferences.
Whether you plan on doing some canyon carving/road racing or the drags, SFC's are the best way to start, that's for sure. Get the "weld on" ones, the bolt ons are not as rigid, and you WANT rigity.
Once you do that, hopefully you have decided on what is more important to you, either the 1/4 or cornering capabilities. I went for the latter, I figured that SHOULD I decide to start getting serious about 1/4 times, then I'll start adjusting the suspension accordingly.
My car hugs corners something serious, and that's what I wanted, big time. Hence, no adjustable torque arms, no aftermarket LCA's with relocation brackets, I bought solid front & rear sways, the shocks & springs, adjustable panhard rod, and so on...
BTW, it took me about 3 years to get my car to where it is, it's okay to be patient.
Whether you plan on doing some canyon carving/road racing or the drags, SFC's are the best way to start, that's for sure. Get the "weld on" ones, the bolt ons are not as rigid, and you WANT rigity.
Once you do that, hopefully you have decided on what is more important to you, either the 1/4 or cornering capabilities. I went for the latter, I figured that SHOULD I decide to start getting serious about 1/4 times, then I'll start adjusting the suspension accordingly.
My car hugs corners something serious, and that's what I wanted, big time. Hence, no adjustable torque arms, no aftermarket LCA's with relocation brackets, I bought solid front & rear sways, the shocks & springs, adjustable panhard rod, and so on...
BTW, it took me about 3 years to get my car to where it is, it's okay to be patient.
Thanks guys, I ordered a panhard rod, STB and LCA's(got a deal in the for sale section) and will be ordering SFC's very shortly. Am considering getting some Pro-Kits and Bilsteins next.
Hey Bad1LEZ, I am in Ephrata about 20 minutes from Lancaster. I need some reccomendations on a good exhaust guy for LT install and possibly someone to do a Hotcam in the near future. I plan on doing all the suspension myself. Anyway if you can reccomend anyone for our cars, that would be cool- maybe we can get together and help eachother out on the simpler stuff(I plan on doing the suspension myself).
Take it easy,
P.J
Hey Bad1LEZ, I am in Ephrata about 20 minutes from Lancaster. I need some reccomendations on a good exhaust guy for LT install and possibly someone to do a Hotcam in the near future. I plan on doing all the suspension myself. Anyway if you can reccomend anyone for our cars, that would be cool- maybe we can get together and help eachother out on the simpler stuff(I plan on doing the suspension myself).
Take it easy,
P.J
I have taken my car to McNews speed shop, however, it is way far from you- down route 15 outside of Dillsburg. They seem to do a good job, but a little slow. It seems they are always so busy. They have one guy that specializes in F bodies- Jon. The rest of their guys work on Ford Focus's. Like I said, they did a great job for me but a little slow and too busy. That was for fluids/tuneup/minor work: not anything like hotcam install. I hear they do good work on exhaust. For full tune-up,2 big leaks fixed(intake, ect)all fluids changed, and minor adjustments ect cost me about $900.00 for everything. Not too bad. Website: www.mcnewsautomotive.com. Will give you the address and phone numbers. For anything else, I take it to a little shop down the street. I don't know any other reputable shops that specialize in Camaro's, at least that I would trust with mine. I'm still searching. Finding one is the hardest part. I'm hitting Carlisle's GM Nationals this w/e, maybe I'll find someone there.
Yeh, we could get together sometime, I'm up around Hershey.
BTW, don't skimp on shocks - Bilstein - Strano
Hope info helps
Later
Yeh, we could get together sometime, I'm up around Hershey.
BTW, don't skimp on shocks - Bilstein - Strano

Hope info helps
Later
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