Well.....i was running 13.4 with some bolts in sig........last season i got 1.6rrs and FLP's put on the car......had a pushrod thrown down thru the motor and into the oil pan....20 minutes after i got it from the shop.....nevermade it too the track....this season opening weekend i was hoping for 13.0 or even 12.99.......BUT i ran 14.4.......is my motor hurt....what the hell is wrong...what could be slowing me down.......PLEAS PLEASE HELP ME>>>I BOUT TO GET RID OF THIS THING IF IT DOENS'T START COOPERATING........

 

what was your 60' and trap speed from last time and now?

 

wELL.......BEFORE I HAD 1.6RR AND HEADERS INSTALLED I WAS RUNNING A RELIGIOUS 1.87-1.95.....@103 MPH......NOW AFTER ONLY ONE TRIP TO THE TRACK WITH THE 1.6RR AND LT'S.. ON AN IDEAL DAY......I WAS DOWN TO A 2.0-2.1 60 FT.....AND 96 MPH.......THERE WAS NO POWER...I DON'T KNOW WHAT HAPPENED PLEASE HELP....PLEASE BEFORE I PUT A FORSALE SIGN ON THIS PIG..

 

whoa, how did a pushrod get thrown down to the oil pan??

Did you get a new cam? If a pushrod made its way through to the oil pan, it (or a lifter) may have nicked up the cam lobes, maybe you should look into everything that was damaged and how it was replaced...

and the 1.6RRs, I guess they could be adjusted incorrectly, and with FLPs, there may be an exhaust leak, or a burnt plug wire, or something.. loose plugs? its anyone's guess

how's the car running? hesitation? hissing? jerking/stumbling at all?

When I put in my headers, I re-did my plugs, and apparently, I didn't torque them down enough, because ~2-3 of them backed out. I had major hesitation and NO power until about 3k rpms, and it felt like I was driving a 15 second car.

 

About the 1.6rrs.......guess one was out of adjustment and spit the pushrod..right from the door at the shop..actually exploded the pushrod...found a biggest piece of 2"...mind you i didn't not do the repair because i sent it to a shop for the original install of the FLP's and 1.6rr......

Minus what happened to the rr's..Now that you mentioned it...i had a lope after the header installation...like i had a new cam in or something...i thought nothing of it really cause its not the bad....Is this problem?????

Secondly i found the rear header bolt on the passenger side to be very loose so i tightened it.....but it came loose again.....tightened it again....now it seems to be ok....Could this bolt have stripped threads???

I will change the plugs and wires ASAP and see what happens...

Overall i'm losing power through out the trip down the track......60 ft is off.....MPH is off........time is way off........Besides so tips you gave me to check.....how can i test to see if the internal parts of the motor are ok...like cam and lifters.......ECT.....PLEASE....you guys are a big help.....THANKS>>>

 

Trying to decide whether or not to take the heads off and do them up with a cam....not decided on cam yet........its not a daily driver so i might go big.......BUT....very big BUT.......will i be wasting my money if something is wrong in the bottom on the engine..........How can i tell.......Very stuck in between a FOR SALE SIGN and GOING INTO THE GARAGE FOR A MOD.

 

I believe that your best bet is plugs and wires. Especially if you say the car was running like it had a new cam in it. Can I guess a vibration/shake with light pedal pressure from 1krpm-3k? If so I recently had a similar problem, it was a burned plug wire that was arcing to the header but still allowing some, but not all, of the spark to reach the plug. Good luck, I hope you find the problem soon with little cost and that it is not in the internals of the engine.

 

did you install an lt4 KM to compensate for the added noise from the RR's?

i would think if they are causing false knock, and the computer is pulling timing...it could definatly cause you to drop in hp

 

LT4 KM????......prpobably not only thing installed was 1.6rrs....pushrods.....one broken stud......because everything broke when i spit the pushrod...and also guide plates after the pushrod was spit....and this is on self aligning pushrods....is that bad too........

And also to the wire and plugs......what are the best ones to put on with FLP's.........i have on now....MSD wires and NGK plugs........

 

i'd look into an LT4 km from www.gmpartsdirect.com

about $35

pn: 16214681

 

What does the LT4 Km do and where is it installed.....and still looking for best wires to get with FLP's on the car......

 

from what i've seen/heard the best wires for headers are the over-the-valve covers units sold by thunder racing. bout a $100 for the wires, looms and all the tools.

the lt4 module just is a less sensitive unit than the stock lt1, since the lt4's came with roller rockers. the rockers make a slight amout of noise under normal conditions, which can be picked up as false knock (ie detonation) even when it isn't. when the ecm sees this it pulls timing to prevent what it thinks is detonation. less timing results in less hp.

it takes about 10 minutes to replace, just pull out the ecm unit from under the hood, remove two small torx screws and a metal plate, pull out the module, put in the new one and replace the plate and ecm...done...

 

i appreciate everyones help..........i'll bring an update to the board after i change wires...and see if maybe that was the problem.....and then i'll change to the LT4 Km.....and then i'll pull my hair if i see no results again.....and be back to the board to tel my story all over again.......

 

After all this advice...which....i'm already taking advantage of........just to check everything before i go internal........would all these problems put together still rob me of 6 MPH in the 1/4, one second in the 1/4 and 2-3 tenths in the 60 ft.............especially after the mods i installed....doesn't seem like these will cause that much to go wrong.........

 

a decent amout of false knock can rob over 20hp from what i've been told...

so yeah