I have an LT1 block .060 and I am putting in a 3.750 crank and I don't know if it has to be machined for clearance or not, I don't think it does but I do know the rods need to be clearanced for .600 cam lift. My car is .584/.579. So what all needs to be done to the block???? Anyone that has the 383 help me. Someone told me I have to get the block clearanced which I dont see that it does. Thanks

 

Kinda depends on what parts you use. I cant recall what works and what doesnt but a search should help ya. Its nothing major though.. just a notch for the rod bolts.

 

I don't think the block needs machining, like it's an Eagle 3.750 crank so I think it will clear but the rods should be clearanced for cam though right? and that's about it?

 

I think again it depends on the parts. Wide rods may hit so I-beam vs H-beam makes a difference

 

I'm using powdermetal rods but they aren't clearanced so I need them done I believe. Also about ARP Main Studs, which set and part # because I still wanna use the windage tray and I heard studs make the 2-bolt stronger.

 

Im not sure if the lt1 block is different than the old school sbc but i know my 383 in my chevelle had to be clearanced for the rods, cant say i have heard of rods being clearanced for the cam though

 

On mine the crank fit fine, the rods did not, the block had to be clearanced at the bottom of the cylender below the pan rail where the rod bolt passed. Very slightly though.

I used the Eagle I beam rods.