This is for a 95 Buick Roadmaster. The car has a 2.56 rearend which I kind of like and am thinking about keeping since it is mainly a highway car. I was looking to put an exhaust, intake, and probably some headers on it along with a cam. I would like to have a low, torquey power band b/c of the rearend and for the weight of the car. Any suggestions for setup, especially the cam which I would like to use with stock irons (or with a little porting). I would like to have a mid to low 13s car.

Btw I do plan on getting a stall, if you have suggestions for that let me know

Thanks for any help

 

I would look into the crane 227, lingenfelter 219/219 560/560 cam, or maybe even the comp cams 466 (xfi 268, 218/224 570/575 or somethin like that) Those are GREAT daily driver cams with a ton of low-end torque

 

I'de look into the crane 227 cam. That was my favorite daily driver cam since it had a ****load of torque even at idle.

 

Accel/LPE cam 211/219 .532/.560 w/1.6 rockers
Accel/LPE SuperRam intake manifold
Pocket ported stock heads w/stock size valves/good 3 angle valve job
1 5/8" long tube headers
High flow or gutted catalytic converters
2 1/4" dual exhaust mandrel bent pipe/x-pipe/Magnaflow mufflers
Good PCM tuning

Stay conservative on the torque converter (<2500rpm stall/lockup).

My $0.02

 

Is this a known setup that you have used/seen? It sounds like what I'm looking for. How does the Accel cam compare to the Crane 227 that the others have suggested. What kind of rpm band does it have? Will a stock ported intake work just as well as the super ram. And lastly, what kind of tq/hp is this setup good for?

 

Ditto. I ran this cam for many years. It is a stout driver cam. Great low end TQ.

 

You can see from my sig. the CC 501 I put in. At 2000 rpm (the start of my dyno pull), I am over 90% full torque. This thing gave me what I wanted down low but past 5200 RPM, it the torque dives something serious. If you are looking for a powerband below 5500 RPM, this cam worked for me.

 

OMG cc501 in a 383cid !!?? I bet that thing's idle smoother than stock right?

BTW if your heads ported well, you are wasting power by going that cam with that lift. (.500 and lower)

 

Nope, it was just a recommendation off the top of my head. The Accel/LPE SuperRam and a ported stock LT1 intake will probably make about the same HP. However, the SuperRam will probably make at least a good 50 ft/lbs more torque in the mid RPM range than the LT1 manifold, which is great for a heavy car like yours with tall gearing. The manifold setup isn't cheap though.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ight=super+ram

 

Really you are getting as lot of mediocre info here.

Change the gears first, you like the highway 3.42s are great. On the stall 2800 Edge, Yank or Vigilante 9.5".

Focuztech.com has some nice header offerings, car came with true duals so the available catbacks are true duals, I like the Dynomax UltraFloSS, definetely not stock but not loud and obnoxious, the worst thing anyone has ever said about my exhaust is it is "too quiet" even the guys at work who drive Hondas and Kias say it sounds good. Is a 2.5" system great for a stock motor or even most strokers, I gain very little opening the exhaust at the strip.

The Accel/Lingenfelter superram would be a collosal waste of a lot of money that could be better spent.

The factory valvejob is very good, the average local shop would just screw it up, though a little COMPETENT port work with stock valves can be a good thing.

The Crane 104227 or the Lingenfelter 211/219 are good lowend cams but neither is going to make more torque lower than the stocker, then again with 3.42s and a 2800 stall you don't need to make find a cam that makes more torque down low, these will be about equal to stock at very low rpms and will just continue to gain more midrange and hold on longer up top.

Years ago I put a mild cam(ZZ4) in the car with 1650 stall, stock manifolds and 2.93s, gained nothing, gave it a 2800 stall and picked up a good bit, then gears, then headers were another good gain. So I have been down the road you are looking to take.

Get the headers, gears and stall first, trust me 3.42s are great and the stall will drive better with them than it would with 2.56s.

I had the car setup with 2800 and 3.42s back when it was my only car with anticipation of 20,000+ miles a year, things changed and I got another car so it now has 3.73s and sees 10K a year still fine but if it were still seeing the miles it used too 3.42s would be my pick.

Keep asking questions, it will make your mod dollars go farther, just have to be careful who you listen to. There are plenty of us willing to share our mistakes and sucesses.

 

I have the Crane 104227 and give it a big

Listen to Dwayne as he has gone down a similar path. My experience is
with the F body which is a much different animal than a Roadmaster. If
you are really picky and don't mind spending more $$ then have a custom
2.5" mandrel bent true dual exhaust built to match the headers you choose.
If you are going with new cats be sure to avoid the small bullet style units
and go with the large body (carsound, magnaflow, etc.) variety. Also think
about an "h" or "x" pipe if it fits the layout you desire. The ultraflow or
magnaflow straight through mufflers are exactly as Dwayne says. I have
a SS ultraflow on my F body and it's nice and quiet, but still has a great
sound when you stand on it.

I would imagine you have quite a few header choices as well and that's an
area that I don't know a thing about. Maybe Dwayne or others can chime
in regarding options (tri-Ys, LTs, etc.).

 

The information I provided was based on his desire to keep his stock gearing. If he changed his gears, obviously there's many better ways to go.

 

I went from a 13.0@105 with a 1.91 60' to a 12.5 @111.0 with a 1.86 60' by just putting in the 227 cam and 3.73's with the stock stall so I wouldn't say putting in a small cam won't gain anything. I'm not sure how much of the 60' inprovement was from the gears vs the cam though. The 12.5 was with a slipping tranny too that was shifting 500 RPM's too high and bouncing off the rev limiter so it had a couple more tenths in it easy. But I do agree not doing a stall would be prety pointless since I'm sure I would have been pretty close to the 11's with that setup if I had a stall.

 

I've got the LPE 211/219 in my LT4 powered truck, its got great towing power. Rear gears are stock '94 Silverado..don't recall what they are off the top of my head. Stock LT4 heads and intake.
About to put this same cam in my '95 TA with LE2 ported and bigger valve heads...looking for good usuable power below 5k rpms.

 

Thanks alot for the info. I understand that 2.56s and performance don't go hand and hand but I didn't plan on changing the gears out for a bit. Down the road I thought about going to 3.23 or 3.42 but as of right now I would like to keep them while my wife commutes in it.

I would like to concentrate on performance mods that would help down the road yet give (or not take away from) mileage. If thats the case would ported (mild) heads come before a cam along with exhaust, converter, etc.? Are there other LT besides the Tri-ys? If so where to get them and what kind?

BTW do 3.42s require a different driveshaft?