As more and more people take the plunge and install Heads/Cam packages,
I see more and more threads of people having issued with low numbers.
Granted, some are likely related to A4s with high stalls (easily diagnosed with
the addition of 1/4 mile results I thought I'd start a thread to collect those
answers and maybe help others find theirs in the process.

For those who've resolved their issues, what was the key to unlocking your breast?

A few possible solutions (from a link Bret posted in another thread)
http://racingarticles.com/article_racing-67.html

Other possible gremlins; (Items added to list as they are posted)

• Ignition timing, plug wires, plug gap, coil or opti
• Fuel pump, Fuel filter
• Tuning (probably blamed more often than necessary)
• Bad MAF, TPS, O2
• Piston rings, head gasket, valve seating
• Rockers too tight
• Knock Retard (false or otherwise)

 

Ported heads, CC306, stock shortblock

i'm at 4-10* of false knock retard from 3600-6700 (verified in cool weather with 100 octane) from my roller rockers, 1/8th turn of preload, Comp Rs. So basically I'm only running 29-31* of timing right now.

Still barely pulling on my friends SS that put down 354/367. How much is 10* of knock retard worth? 50 rwhp??? lol, I'm bypassing that thing with a switch first thing tomorrow morning.

 

OBDII was my problem, and also the absolute last thing considered in the fix.
On the positive side I have a new opti, coil, ICM, valvesprings, retainers, locks,
shims, knock sensor, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, and lots of practice in
changing valvesprings and adjusting rockers.

 

Specifically, what was the issue with OBDII ?
And yes, the correct solution is usually the last one you check LOL
(kinda like searching for car keys)

 

1/8th turn on those Comp R's is WAY too much. Comp Tech says about.002 past zero lash.

 

Opti, and valve lash was a big problem for me. Once that was fixed then came headers and CATS and other complimenting mods.

 

Valve lash for me, and then a nice gain in rpm recently with the change of valve springs.

 

cc306, Stage 3 lt4 race heads, with every supporting mod available.
With these mods done to my lil brothers formula, it snaps stock tourqe arms like they are made of plastic.
Other than that the maf was bad and finding zero lash. We bent up some new push rods when we thought we had it right.
On a good note, all the bugs have been worked out and the car is seriously scary fast.
Steve

 

What were the symptoms of your bad maf? i'm chasing problems around as we speak.

So far I've changed o2's and thats about it. Have plenty o gremlins to go im shur

 

Sucking oil from the lifter valley was a problem for me and a friend in our builds. I think mine may still be doing it too...

 

1/8 turn on my 3/8" rockers is .003 which is in the upper recommended range.

 

Horible idle, car would rev from 800rpms to 2500rpm after starting it on its own. It would die if you did not keep your foot on the gas. We took the maf off of my T/a and it cleared it right up.
Steve

 

Take a screwdriver and bang on your MAF, if it affects the idle then the MAF needs to be replaced.

 

I'm not getting any power out of my heads/cam because I'm broke and haven't bought them yet.

Indeed, most people stop looking after they find what they're looking for, thus guaranteeing that it will be the last place you look. I have no idea what's so fascinating about that.

 

I'm interested in knowing also, as I'm trying to find the gremlins in my combo.

I don't know if I agree with what you said about the A4 with stalls being a reason for low dyno numbers and validating it at the track though, with my 366 rwhp and 350 rwtq and a 3750lb car, I can only get a 12.77 at 107 out of it with a 1.71 60ft, so there is another 'gremlin' or 'gremlins' to be found.