My engine is gonna be out of my car for a couple weeks while i'm waiting for my heads and intake to come back from porting. Im replacing the read main and oil pan seal while its out because both are leaking. Engine has about 91,000 on it. Anything else I should go ahead and replace while the engine is out?

 

I assume you have a cam??

 

Of course he does, silly. It won't run without a cam.


Put in a new oil pump. Think about a new timing set. Might even want to have the crank mic'd and new bearings to fit. There is more, depending on how far you want to go.

 

How about pistons and maybe a crank?cool:

 

Replace that big hex shaped block drain plug on the driver's side with a 1/4" pipe plug like the ones used on the cylinder heads. Otherwise it's useless because you can't get a wrench on it.

 

Obviously plugs/wires/oil is in order so we can skip that...take your pick:

• ARP oil pump drive.
• Inspect plastic on Oil pump drive.
• Oil Pump Drive brace/saver.
• Some of those new Caddy ceramic lifters would be sweat and good for some RPMs.
• Stiffer pushrods (3/8" vs. stock's 5/16" ) are always good for some ponies as well.
• beehive springs with tool steel retainers are nice for high rpm's and faster reving (less valvetrain weight).
• timing chain ok?
• serp belt's probably due for a change
• any codes in there that need addressing?
• I'd say O2's are ready for replacement if they're still stock... ~100,000 miles or 10 years is plenty for a set (just do the front 2).
• how's the clutch? stock one's usually start to get touchy aroudn 100,000... time for a Street Twin?
• new pilot bearing
• new clutch t-bolt, or at least clean and grease the bolt/fork.
• use a dozen cans of Break Parts Cleaner to hose down the engine bay... 100,000 miles is a LOT of dirt.
• Proform/ES poly motor mounts.
• hows the steering? new rag joint needed? maybe use a rag joint elliminator?
• bigger front sway bar?

Once you pull the engine the wor...ummm... engine bay is your oyster.

 

Let me rephrase that: I assume that you have an aftermarket cam? You don't mention it in your thread. So what I'm say'n is I hope you are putting in a non-stock cam to go with all that other stuff.

 

Delete Air, and EGR.

Alot easier to do when engine is out, check everything else...

 

Am I missing something here

I'm seeing everything but a CAM. Does everyone else know that he has a performance cam.

Ported heads and headers without adding a cam is like shining your shoes but not wiping your a$$. JMHO

 

one word, headers

 

headers are in his sig

 

383 and supercharger.

 

haha ok im sorry i should have been a little more specific.. i just did plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and O2s this summer right before i took it off the road for the winter. I gonna get new plugs.. not sure which ones yet. Im getting AI's 200cc package so everything will be ready to bolt on including my cam. All the freebee's are already deleted except for that stupid pipe that is rattling around in there still. I'm doing a Spec 3 clutch, the street twin is to expensive so hopefully the Spec 3 will be sufficient.

Do I really need to do motor mounts? Oil pump im probably gonna end up doing as well. As far as steering I have a crapload of bump steer. Im running 275's, would that profile cause the steering wheel to jerk every time i hit a bump? Or is it alignment or something else? 'll check the timing chain while i'm in there as well but don't plan on changing it.

 

With that amount of mileage, replacing the motor mounts and the timing chain would be a wise investment.

 

I am going through this question also at the moment. I have poly motor mounts waiting for install. I am also considering cleaning up the engine bay and painting it.


I agree if there is a T56 out of the car to change the clutch fork T bolt with a new grade 8. I had one snap on me in traffic for no reason. Not fun hearing your fork rub until you stall permanently.